I wouldn't crack the finest typhoo out just yet, reading back over your thread it is worth ruling out the starter but I am thinking back to your MOST diagnosis and still reckon something else could be involved like immobiliser maybe but see what the starter turns up and then failing that I reckon good diagnostic kit . When my 04 is immobilised it will crank but not start but yours is the newer system.
Good luck
 
You can never have too many mugs of tea where safety is critical.
Seriously though, trolley jack, axle stands and all four wheels on just in case, that said at access height there's less than 50cm clearance if it goes bad so I'll only be under for a few minutes.
 
Yes, the next srep is to check the power to the starter motor. The main lead is a constant voltage 12v, & the soloniod should have 12v when key is turned to crank. This test is clear as day as to whether the SM is faulty.
 
Hello again all.

Just wanted to let you know, I finally got under the car and tested the starter voltages. Not good, when the ignition was at position III, there was 5 volts on the starter and 1 volt on the solenoid. Decided enough was enough and sent "The Beast" of to the garage as it needs to be in the air to get the starter out anyway as my arms are too long to get in from underneath.

As they couldn't even get the car to talk to the computer they pulled the starter out and bench tested it, all was OK. They even got the engine started and running. Unfortunately, the dash remained lit up like a Christmas tree. They have now been able to re-set the error codes and have the ignition switch and immobilisers under surveillance.

We'll get an update on Monday and fingers crossed, be driving "Black Beauty" home early next week.

Tricky.
 
Sounds like there is a lack of volts between the computer & the starter.... Earth fault???
 
sorry to hear, I really am going off cars made after the 2000's...
I hope they nip it in the bud for you matey. ;)
 
Just back from walking the dog.

I must confess the early cars certainly have more appeal when it comes to electrics but the kids were insistent on multi-disk CD and DVD, electric heated seats etc. I must say the grown ups in our house like electric & heated everything as well so we have a cross to bear or should I say share.

Seriously though, if it all worked when she left the factory, with the right attitude and half an ounce of common cense we can keep her in good shape. Lets face it, why shouldn't we treat ourselves to some of those, otherwise out of reach, pleasures when the opportunity arises. Especially, when the whole family gets a buzz.

Tricky.
 
I do agree, ok my p38 diesel doesn't ruin tyres but It does receive much adoration from the family.
as for pleasures', lube needs to be given a lot more credit:eek::p;)
 
Hi All, sorry to be writing an update to this thread after such a long time but life has a habit of getting in the way of progress. That said there has been a significant change to the original issue of not starting. Having been relieved of a significant amount of cash that included an immobiliser module that made no difference, I decided to take "The Beast" out of the garage and although faced with only being able lock and unlock her with the key in the door and start the car following a set sequence of key turns, I was glad to have her back. The garage has suggested that a new instrument cluster is required and this was supported by the fact that the car never shut down. I took matters into hand and if left for more than an hour disconnected the battery earth to stop the drain. On closer examination I noticed that fuse 8 in the glove box for the instrument panel was removed. When returned the dash lit up like the proverbial Christmas Tree and the brake lights stayed on.

Fast forward 7 weeks and many removals of the battery earth, I decided to return the 5A fuse No.8 - the result was no dash lights, no brake lights then when I put the key in the ignition the steering lock clicked off and then position one odometer, position two normal ignition lights position three engine start. Perfect I thought, then when I switched off, got out and discovered still no key plip. However, if I turn the door key everything locks, alarm and ten minutes later sleep. No more battery drain and I can live with using the key.

Here's the pain to all the pleasure - the centre display is now dead. No information, music or sat nav. I decided to remove the No.8 fuse again but this time back to the lit up dash but no centre display. So I put the fuse back in again and told the wife and kids to sing.

If anyone has stayed with the story and has any ideas to get the centre display working again do please let me know as I really don't want to explore the new instrument cluster £900 route without a very real chance it will solve my woes.

Best regards, Tricky.
 
I found this after much googling.... Look for a water leak in the boot and/or the centre console.

I recently fixed a 2005 L322 with the MOST Bus down, turns out the telephone module had water ingress and was not repeating the light.
I fitted a new one, but later cleaned the old one up and got it working again and actually retro fitted it in my own Disco 3.

If you unplug the MOST connector from an ECU, you should see light at the end of the input terminal of the cable, They are arrowed for direction. For a split second you might also see light being emmitted from the MOST connector of the ECU. Also if you hover the connector over the socket close enough, sufficient light will reach the ECU's reciever for it to fire up its emmitter.

If you dont see light in the cable, the problem is before that, if you dont get light out of the ECU then its that ECU that is not working as it should and you need to check its power feeds fuses etc.

There is an LR tool availiable called a MOST Prism to aid in MOST bus testing, its basically a socket with a loop of cable to by pass each ECU in turn.
Click to expand...
 
Many thanks for your reply, I do have an issue with water in the tyre well so will investigate the cabling further. Cheers.
 
are there any ecu boxes living in the tyre well?
dont forget the tyre well is the lowest place on the body, the water could be coming from somewhere else and just ending up there!! Any gurus here who could tell us what ecu's are around the rear wheel arches and back area if the car that could be affected by the damp? Do your rear washer jets work, if not could they be filling your car with water!!!
 
The fusebox behind the glovebox is looking like the culprit here. This holds the programming for the keys etc.
Unfortunately, this cannot just be replaced with another, as these are a one time only program.
 
Mark Piercy said:
are there any ecu boxes living in the tyre well?
Click to expand...
I'm sure the sat nav/dvd unit lives in the wheel arch space, iirc the eas compressor lives in the spare wheel well. It does sound like something is shorting and I've read posts that the likely culprit is in hte back by the sat nav unit, as someone else mentioned.
 
Many thanks for all the suggestions it is much appreciated.

We'll work through step by step as we have got all the moisture out of the interior now and there must be a simple link in the chain that will hold the key.

We'll let you know how we get on.

Cheers, Tricky.
 
Hi All, Busy tonight closing off my threads!

As per my other thread, I just wanted to post the resolution to my non-starting issue.

Earth Strap - Engine to chassis. That and a long time spent pulling and cleaning fuses. Regarding the fuses, get all the moisture out of the car, it's the kiss of death for the electrics in these cars.

My car is now running great every time we turn the key she fires up, sweet. Fingers crossed it'll get through the winter!

Tricky.
 
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