danspann

Member
Hey guys, recently changed my water pump,head gasket,had the head skimmed by 6 thou but pressure is still building and pushing the water out of the expansion tank....this is the second time in two weeks I have changed the head gasket...the first time the head wasnt tightened properly because of some oil and water that found its way into the bolt holes....but this time the holes were cleaned and the angle gauge used while tightening the head...any advice appreciated
 
could be crack in head or block or poor fitting ,is head still flat ,were there signs of leakage over gasket

Head was skimmed just prior to installation and the old gasket was 'new' only got for the most 2 hours running time.....hoping it's not a crack in the block....how do u check that? Btw the head was pressure tested before the skim
 
Head was skimmed just prior to installation and the old gasket was 'new' only got for the most 2 hours running time.....hoping it's not a crack in the block....how do u check that? Btw the head was pressure tested before the skim

it may have but is it still flat , you can see cracks in blocks especially if blocks left with water in overnight
 
block water jacket not bores

Still kinda lost on what ur saying....:confused::eek:....sorry for the trouble....right now it's in the vehicle with new core plugs(what we in Trinidad call water jackets) and should be filled with water....tomorrow I plan to properly bleed the system and check for any other issues....I do have one of the new style heads and new style head gasket....but im not ready to use it....if I have to I will
 
a cracked bore will show when heads off , more distinctly if blocks full of water as it will seep into crack overnight,presumed youve felt rad core all over when engines up to temp
 
Head was skimmed just prior to installation and the old gasket was 'new' only got for the most 2 hours running time.....hoping it's not a crack in the block....how do u check that? Btw the head was pressure tested before the skim

Did you reuse the gasket. Or is it they way it's been written here or just read by myself. Bleeding a 300 tdi ain't hard. Fill the rad then fill thermostat slowly till it pushes out of the header tank. Fit plugs and run it up till hot and keep topping up at thermostat. Header tank just sorts itself out when all is ok. Then finally set level in the tank when air is out and caps are screwed in. Takes 20-30 mins tops
 
Did you reuse the gasket. Or is it they way it's been written here or just read by myself. Bleeding a 300 tdi ain't hard. Fill the rad then fill thermostat slowly till it pushes out of the header tank. Fit plugs and run it up till hot and keep topping up at thermostat. Header tank just sorts itself out when all is ok. Then finally set level in the tank when air is out and caps are screwed in. Takes 20-30 mins tops

The gasket at both times were new....and it has been bled multiple times still no luck
 
a cracked bore will show when heads off , more distinctly if blocks full of water as it will seep into crack overnight,presumed youve felt rad core all over when engines up to temp

Ok well the engine is currently up to running temp on the stock gauge,my aftermarket gauge on the head is showing 212 degrees Fahrenheit...but the radiator core on the side with the hose inlet/outlet is hot while the middle and right side are both cool(more like not hot). Using my egt probe to measure the temp of the head that's reading 198 degrees Fahrenheit.....also the oil cooler hoses are extremely hot.....the expansion tank is cool and oil from the engine is cool to the touch
 
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Ok well the engine is currently up to running temp on the stock gauge,my aftermarket gauge on the head is showing 212 degrees Fahrenheit...but the radiator core on the side with the hose inlet/outlet is hot while the middle and right side are both cool(more like not hot). Using my egt probe to measure the temp of the head that's reading 198 degrees Fahrenheit.....also the oil cooler hoses are extremely hot.....the expansion tank is cool and oil from the engine is cool to the touch

if nothing else if rads hot only on side where coolant enters and exits you need a new rad as its not cooling engine
 
if nothing else if rads hot only on side where coolant enters and exits you need a new rad as its not cooling engine

But before the head was removed all was fine.....no overheating issues at all....never even had to fill coolant in 1 year....which is strange...I have decided to remove the cylinder head and install the new style head and gasket..hopefully this solves the problem,however im going to take some time to check for any cracks in the bore....while the radiator off will have it checked by the radiator guy in my area.
 
But before the head was removed all was fine.....no overheating issues at all....never even had to fill coolant in 1 year....which is strange...I have decided to remove the cylinder head and install the new style head and gasket..hopefully this solves the problem,however im going to take some time to check for any cracks in the bore....while the radiator off will have it checked by the radiator guy in my area.
rad should be hot all over if not its faulty
 
Hi sounds silly check new head bolts are same length as I had same problem and it turned out all the new bolts were slightly longer
 

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