danspann · Mar 18, 2014

jamesmartin said:
to get pressure in to coolant system it would have to be a crack in bore unless hgf

Not seeing cracks in bore....hgf?
But compared to the previous pressure problem it's not as bad as before....actually the only problem is when I switch the vehicle off....only then the pressure starts to build....otherwise it stays normal in the expansion tank. Would like to buy one of the carbon dioxide testers but the liquid would be hard to obtain through customs in my country

danspann · Mar 18, 2014

Dr_evil said:
Out of question did you use a good gasket ? Some of the poorer makes gaskets aren't worth touching with a ****ty stick on the V8 front no idea on the dervs though as I've never done a derv HG

Used one of the elring gaskets.....have a MLS gasket but at the time it required too much preparation of the surfaces

danspann · Mar 18, 2014

Is it possible to further tighten the head bolts....

jamesmartin · Mar 18, 2014

danspann said:
Is it possible to further tighten the head bolts....

not if they are already set as spec

Dr_evil · Mar 18, 2014

yes it is but don't snap them, usually an extra 5ft/lbs can help on certain engines

some work loose over time as the caddy engine I built had a spec saying retighten after running but it should be fine on standard torque I'd have thought ?

JM will know for sure though

Opps he beat me to it

jamesmartin · Mar 18, 2014

danspann said:
Not seeing cracks in bore....hgf?
But compared to the previous pressure problem it's not as bad as before....actually the only problem is when I switch the vehicle off....only then the pressure starts to build....otherwise it stays normal in the expansion tank. Would like to buy one of the carbon dioxide testers but the liquid would be hard to obtain through customs in my country

explain your whole symptoms ,how is it on a run ,does it loose coolant

fanatic · Mar 18, 2014

danspann said:
Not seeing cracks in bore....hgf?
But compared to the previous pressure problem it's not as bad as before....actually the only problem is when I switch the vehicle off....only then the pressure starts to build....otherwise it stays normal in the expansion tank. Would like to buy one of the carbon dioxide testers but the liquid would be hard to obtain through customs in my country

I suspect localised boiling, how did you bleed system?

danspann · Mar 19, 2014

jamesmartin said:
explain your whole symptoms ,how is it on a run ,does it loose coolant

Haven't taken it for a run yet...so don't know about coolant loss

danspann · Mar 19, 2014

fanatic said:
I suspect localised boiling, how did you bleed system?

Bled with a hose at the expansion tank and let engine run for a while until no air...then tighten both caps

danspann · Mar 19, 2014

fanatic said:
I suspect localised boiling, how did you bleed system?

can you expand on the localized boiling fanatic

fanatic · Mar 19, 2014

Heater on hot
Plastic thermostat bung undone with single hex socket
Radiator top bung undone and filled

I think you have airlock causing circulation issues

fanatic · Mar 19, 2014

Oh and thermostat plug if damaged a plumbing one for radiator fits

blue beasty · Mar 19, 2014

fanatic said:
Oh and thermostat plug if damaged a plumbing one for radiator fits

With a convenient bleed valve

jamesmartin · Mar 19, 2014

danspann said:
Haven't taken it for a run yet...so don't know about coolant loss

i would after ensuring system is completely full ie pouring out of rad plug thermostat housing plug and header tank

danspann · Mar 19, 2014

fanatic said:
Heater on hot
Plastic thermostat bung undone with single hex socket
Radiator top bung undone and filled

I think you have airlock causing circulation issues

No heater anymore....in Trinidad we have no need for it....the heater pipe is blanked off with a blanking cap and the nipple at the back of the head has been replaced with a temperature sending unit

danspann · Mar 21, 2014

jamesmartin said:
i would after ensuring system is completely full ie pouring out of rad plug thermostat housing plug and header tank

Mr Martin....with respect to the localised boiling....in the middle of the head is a spot for a temp sender which on my old head was blanked off...it was about half inch long....I used a similar threaded bolt to blank off the one on the new head but it is almost 2 inches long....is it possible this is causing a restriction in coolant flow at that area and causing the water to boil?

jamesmartin · Mar 21, 2014

temp sensor for egr , i wouldnt have thought so,coolant will only boil if theres not enough leaving air space, no flow due to no pump etc or cant get rid of heat ie poor rad

danspann · Mar 21, 2014

jamesmartin said:
temp sensor for egr , i wouldnt have thought so,coolant will only boil if theres not enough leaving air space, no flow due to no pump etc or cant get rid of heat ie poor rad

Ok well on Sunday will try everything I've thought of this past week plus all of your suggestions and get back to you

danspann · Mar 23, 2014

jamesmartin said:
temp sensor for egr , i wouldnt have thought so,coolant will only boil if theres not enough leaving air space, no flow due to no pump etc or cant get rid of heat ie poor rad

Good day Mr Martin, bled the system used a shorter blanking plug at egr temp sender and installed the fan shroud but temp still seems to be high at the head reading slightly more than 180 degrees Fahrenheit at aftermarket guage....83 degrees Celsius at head but slightly less than normal on stock gauge

danspann · Mar 23, 2014

danspann said:
Good day Mr Martin, bled the system used a shorter blanking plug at egr temp sender and installed the fan shroud but temp still seems to be high at the head reading slightly more than 180 degrees Fahrenheit at aftermarket guage....83 degrees Celsius at head but slightly less than normal on stock gauge

However of I open the thermostat plug there is no coolant in there....but opening the expansion tank quickly fills the thermostat housing back up and temp drops

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