oh, and with nothing connected to -ve post on coil still getting 12v between coil -ve and batt +ve!! is the coil pooped or am i being very very dense?
 
rustyrangie said:
not sure about the canvas one? will a newer rubber one fit the same? i normally get me bits from 'lr series' if i'm ordering off the net
ntc3338 is the part no. for your hose up to chassis no. ja179... i think?
Click to expand...


For the AFM to Throttle Body big hose?

Thanks mate I will get one , its 1990 so a rubber one should fit no????

I aint got clue whats up with your electrics matey , well out of my remit I think!:doh:
 
fett said:
For the AFM to Throttle Body big hose?

Thanks mate I will get one , its 1990 so a rubber one should fit no????

I aint got clue whats up with your electrics matey , well out of my remit I think!:doh:
Click to expand...

Yeh from afm to pleniun pipe, try lr series or craddocks for online prices first.
Leccys are well outside my understanding too :eek: i'm guessing i've got some shorts to earth somewhere? Not sure what to do apart from start pulling looms apart!
I suppose i could just put up with the misfire and sell it, anyone want a totally rust free lse that needs a coupla new wires :D
 
Where did you find a rust free RRC , was it dipped in wax at the factory lol

I have to say when I had all that trouble, first it was fuel, then we fixed that enough to run and then it stopped with no spark changed dizzy, amp, coil and still no spark.
Then by the time the third mechanic had worked on it it ran again but bady and then stuart sorted the fuel side and alot of other thing and its been ok.

Still never found a reason for no spark and its been sparking ever since.

Like I said when I am rich and famous it will be mallory and magnecor all round!
 
Agreed, if i had the dosh i would have got a mallory etc in there by now but the bloody thing keeps costing too much to save the funds :mad:
I'm doing an all nighter in the shed to get to the bottom of it, someone just told me it could be the ecu..
She's only rust free as i spent 9 months completely re-building it last year..
front and rear inner wings, complete boot floor inc sides, inner and outer cills, footwells, body mounts,A B and c pillars repaired.. to be honest over 60% of the steel on it is new! chassis was good and now has 7 coats of paint on it! and about 6 gallons of dinitrol & waxoyl :D

do i cut the red wire or the white wire.. lol..
 
rustyrangie said:
oh, and with nothing connected to -ve post on coil still getting 12v between coil -ve and batt +ve!! is the coil pooped or am i being very very dense?
Click to expand...
your being dense you have an earth through ignition system-in in effect no different to batt + to chassis.
All you need to worry about is that across the coil with ignition off you do not have 12v.
Last time I bought an amplifier it was £15, worth changing to be sure
 
rustyrangie said:
Agreed, if i had the dosh i would have got a mallory etc in there by now but the bloody thing keeps costing too much to save the funds :mad:
I'm doing an all nighter in the shed to get to the bottom of it, someone just told me it could be the ecu..
She's only rust free as i spent 9 months completely re-building it last year..
front and rear inner wings, complete boot floor inc sides, inner and outer cills, footwells, body mounts,A B and c pillars repaired.. to be honest over 60% of the steel on it is new! chassis was good and now has 7 coats of paint on it! and about 6 gallons of dinitrol & waxoyl :D

do i cut the red wire or the white wire.. lol..
Click to expand...

I so know what you mean!!! :doh:

I didnt put any new panels on mine but cut and patched everywhere and made and put in a new boot floor and fuel tank and went over the whole underneath with a wire brush attachment, then epoxied it and then undersealed it, That job sucked!
 
Right, i was being a bit dense..

But! the ****er won't run now :mad: flattened the battery trying to start it, if it doesn't fire pretty much straight away she floods big time. i had to whip the plugs out, clean up and put em back in. Got it to start now but not well enough to idle :eek:
How much is them pajeros? :D

Underseal is a crap job and should be done by very short people or criminals :D
 
So it was running , but with mid rpm missfire , you fecked with it and now it wont run properly at all?

I know that story but it was the idle screw I fecked with and some how that affected the spark too! :doh:

I also thought about going Jap!

Just give stuart a message or call , pay the £200 he will charge and let him fix it , its a small price to pay to be able to use it, especailly if that snow comes back soon!
 
Yeh, funny, i thought of you when the bitch wouldn't start :p
You'd think it would appriciate being spoiled with lots of new bits :mad:
putting the new bits in the alternator tonight then i'll try and get back over to it and have another go.
The dodgy starting is something it did about 3 times before it fecked with it. i put it down to the battery not being charged well enough but not so sure now. the only thing i haven't changed is the coil and i can't coz i'm stoney broke now :eek: it still feels like ignition to me.
When i tried to start it yesterday i turned the key, it nearly caught straight away then changed it's mind and seemed like it wasn't firing, it was but it seems once the plugs are wet it won't fire :mad:
 
Not sure if anyone mentioned it yet, but it could be your spark plug wires (is it leads here?). I had a similar problem with a mid-rpm misfire. I put it in the garage turned the lights off and saw the BRAND NEW leads arcing on the manifold once I goosed the throttle. Turned out to be a small strand of wire coming from the rubber boot.
 
Last edited:
rustyrangie said:
Yeh, funny, i thought of you when the bitch wouldn't start :p
You'd think it would appriciate being spoiled with lots of new bits :mad:
putting the new bits in the alternator tonight then i'll try and get back over to it and have another go.
The dodgy starting is something it did about 3 times before it fecked with it. i put it down to the battery not being charged well enough but not so sure now. the only thing i haven't changed is the coil and i can't coz i'm stoney broke now :eek: it still feels like ignition to me.
When i tried to start it yesterday i turned the key, it nearly caught straight away then changed it's mind and seemed like it wasn't firing, it was but it seems once the plugs are wet it won't fire :mad:
Click to expand...

Sounds exactly like mine was, there is still no conclusive proof why it wouldnt start, defintaly too rich though-did you touch either idle or AFM screws?

Regarding what the american guy is saying he is right about the leads I had arcing in the dark on brand new, lucas, bosch and miratec leads. Stuart brought some genuine lucas-landrover leads down which are grey not black and there is only arcing where it passes the alternator shield now, I sleaved the king lead in tape and a rubber hose and it still does it on that ally sheild so I recon its actualy the alt going to earth there rather than the king lead itself.

Definatly all other lead makes are ****e!
 
I've never had trouble with the leads arcing :) til now....
i put some ****y silicone leads from paddocks on it a couple of years ago, only time they arced was when i went bonnet deep in mud over salisbury plain :D
I changed em at the start of this problem as for some reason it had starting arcing between the - coil post and the king lead, in fact the rubber boot covering the base of the king lead had a big hole melted in it caused by the sparks jumping through it :confused:
 
fett said:
but you have changed the coil now?
Click to expand...

No, still the old coil in place, i did try to get one the other day but couldn't get hold of one. It's not the original one, looks like it's already been changed at some point but for the money i may as well replace it, when i have some money. lol..
alternator done and ready to get back on tomorrow, i'll try and get the thing running again after that, see what happens :rolleyes:
 
I had a used coil and changed it over as before even the wire from AFM to coil was arcing at the spade connector, with the other coil in only arcing is from ALT sheild like I said.

I think I would steer clear of lucas for anything in future though, maybe bosch next time!
 
i thought your coil was bosch?
my new leads are bosch from halfrauds, about £35, only as i needed them on a sunday but they must be ok as they genuinely don't arc anywhere :) maybe my coil is so useless it's not generating enough energy to arc like yours? lol..
 
I would put a new one on your shopping list next as they arnt that expensive. Have you moved the dizzy at all?
 
Moved it? i've had it out and thrown it round the bloody workshop at least twice :D had to whip it out to put the new ignition amp on the other day.
I can't get over there til later, got my ickle boy til lunch time, if i take him over there my spanners will be everywhere!
if i can get it to start later i may just try a spare bosch coil i've got sitting around from something else just to see if it makes a difference?
 
If it helps after the first two mechanics had failed (the second had it running but you couldnt drive it) and I called stuart round , he didnt even try and start it he just took the dizzy straight out and made sure it was put back as it should be something to do with teeth and rotor arm direction as well as timing . he then had it running better than anyone had managed before we even addressed the 1 gallon per minit fuel consumption. so check triple check that its in right!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
2007 L322 4.2l v8 (Misfire cylinder)
Replies
4
Views
701
stuu
stuu
2
Need Help with Misfire Issue on Rescued L322 (2003)
Replies
9
Views
782
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
S
Discovery 1 V8 backfiring/misfiring under load.
Replies
4
Views
814
discool
discool
C
Freelander 2 whine
Replies
7
Views
563
chrispym
C
H
Finding source for vibration/lump at idle
Replies
2
Views
1K
HACKCHILD
H