ok, now i'm confused, look totally bloody different to mine! :confused:
here's what mine looks like, note the extra white/black wires going to earth point?
nswingcoilwiring1.jpg
nswing7.jpg
 
It was the same on my neighbours, only one year newer but totally different!

BTW whats the headlamp set up on yours, I like the four lamps!
 
Ok, according to what kev wrote in fetts thread my coil is definately wired wrong :confused: in my pics the + coil terminal is facing the front but has white/black wire and ecu feed attatched :confused:
 
If it was running through and only missed at mid rpm , sometimes , it can be that as it would either be wrong all the time or not run at all, it could be the coild itself breaking down?

I dont know the best make for them?

I read ages ago on here somewhere that a dodgy alternator was causing a missfire on somone RRC too!

Why did you loose the 4 lamp jobby then? looks cool!
 
rustyrangie said:
Ok, according to what kev wrote in fetts thread my coil is definately wired wrong :confused: in my pics the + coil terminal is facing the front but has white/black wire and ecu feed attatched :confused:
Click to expand...

Just incase, here we go again!! Based on the workshop manual for Lucas constant energy ignition system as found on 3.9 and 4.2 RRC.

The ignition system is really quite simple, there is a supply (battery), ignition coil and ignition amplifier - that's it! No really that is it.

The ignition supply is the white wire : should show battery volts when ignition switched on. This wire goes to coil +ve

The white wire is split to give a supply to the ignition amplifier.
Also attached to the coil +ve is a capacitor, I can't remember the reason for this but it is an original feature.

The white with black wire should be attached to coil -ve and goes to the ignition amplifier, this wire is also split to go to the engine ecu to give the engine rpm input signal.

That is the ignition system.

In terms of basic checks/tests try the following:

Ignition switched ON

Batt +ve to Batt -ve should be min 12v.
Batt -ve to coil +ve should be batt volts -1v
Batt -ve to coil -ve should be batt volts -1v
Ignition amplifier ground (one of the mounting screws) to earth = 0v - 0.1v

To check amplifier switching:
Ignition off : Batt +ve to coil -ve = 0v
Ignition on : Batt +ve to coil -ve = 0v
Crank engine, volts should rise. If not amplifier is goosed.

Check pick up coil resistance:
Remove ignition amplifier from distributor, measure resistance between the two plugs that the amplifier pins go in to. Resistance should be in the range 2k ohms to 5k ohms

So now you know:eek:;)
 
Cheers Kev, you have the patience of a saint ;):D

Soo, mines definately wired wrong on the coil posts :eek::p
Question is, as i'm really dense with wiring how comes it's been running ok till lately when the wiring has been the wrong way round for all the time i've had the car :confused: I'm assuming the coil will work if the polarity is reversed?

Not feeling very brave about swapping it all over in case i break something else :eek:
I'm still waiting for the vac hoses etc to turn up, as soon as they get here i'll get over there again and have another good go through it all.
ordered the bits for the alternator too, cost nearly as much as a newun tho :eek:

I took the grill off as it needs new spots coz the backs have rotten badly but they are special very thin ones and i'm struggling to find replacements. saw the same grill on eblag with pooped lights gor for nearly £100 a while ago :eek:
 
Great, just checked me emails and apparently can't get brushes fer me alternator:mad:
A new original one is £500 :eek:
Pattern one, £140...
Guess i won't be goin down the pub this month! :doh:
 
Where did you get ur vac hoses? mine was split today running badly , cut off the end and put it back and improved it a bit. could do with a set, and i need the big one from the AFM to the throttle body, mines the old canves one. Where sells those?? dont want to go to the stealer if I can avoid it!
 
fett said:
Where did you get ur vac hoses? mine was split today running badly , cut off the end and put it back and improved it a bit. could do with a set, and i need the big one from the AFM to the throttle body, mines the old canves one. Where sells those?? dont want to go to the stealer if I can avoid it!
Click to expand...

not sure about the canvas one? will a newer rubber one fit the same? i normally get me bits from 'lr series' if i'm ordering off the net
ntc3338 is the part no. for your hose up to chassis no. ja179... i think?
 
Right.. gone through it again..
chucked in a new ignition amp, checked air gap and resistance on pick up, all good.
Still getting 12v between batt +ve and coil -ve :confused:
So i thought i'd check the circuit directly,key out of ignition switch. took amp feed off coil -ve Checked to batt +ve dead as should be
Checked Batt +ve to rpm pick up wire to ecu.... 12 bloody volts:confused:
 
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