Car developed a misfire on the way home Monday. I called the AA, he first had issues connecting to the ECU on the OBD port and messed a while until he eventually read some codes. Cam position sensor , TPS and misfire cylinder 5. He couldn’t get the parts so the car was left with just the diagnosis. I ordered the parts and fitted them today. Car starts but still has signs of a misfire. I have tried to connect the reader that I normally use and I can’t establish a connection after trying several times with ignition on or engine on. Also, I tried moving the car but couldn’t shift out of park. I can shift to neutral when the car is off and then select as normal once started though. Are these connected ? Blown fuse ? Or is it a coincidence that the hot weather has fried the car all in one day ?
Read the site many times and found the info here invaluable but first time posting. I think I’ve done it right this time lol

What parts did you fit?
Cam position sensor is a common fault, and prevents the engine from starting, but not running once started. The TPS needs setting up with Land Rover T4 IIRC.
Shifting out of park is likely to be related to the interlock, but how that works depends on what market the vehicle was set up for.

Hi. Thanks for the reply. Cam position sensor changed and Throttle position sensor changed. Local garage has had it on today and had trouble reading the OBD port and have said about a break in the cam line ? Not a term I have heard before. Would it be the Throttle position sensor not being set up that could be the issue ?

The TPS won't effect the park issue, and isn' likely to cause a misfire. When were the plugs last changed? The rear plugs often get ignored, as access to them is tight.

I changed the 6 coils packs and plugs myself about 2 years ago. I’ve ordered a set of 6 of both and will swap them out and see how it goes. The locking in park does look like a complete coincidence but it’s strange how since the AA plugged in that’s happened and I had to reset the controller as the electric windows and central locking stopped working too… an hour with the battery off and all worked after reconnecting except for the can’t move out of Park with ignition on or running. Cheers

Sounds like you've got some general electrical issues there. For ECU type systems (windows, CL etc) to fail and then start working after being reset with the battery off sounds like spikes of power corrupting them.

I'm no sparky, but that's what happened on mine. In my case the starter motor was dying and sending spikes of power through the car's components. Replacing the starter fixed it. I'd have thought any component that (can) use a lot of electric power could corrupt other components, or even just 'run of the mill' short circuits.

The "cam line" mentioned, I believe is the "CAN line" which the car's communications pass through between ECUs - and also the diagnostics port. I have no knowledge of the V6 or Auto in it, but if there is an ECU controlling the lock, it may need the CAN line to know when to lock or release the lever.

I don't have have the knowledge to recommend anything specifically. I'd be taking it to an auto electrician to see if they could work out the faults.

Cheers … I’m waiting for the coil packs and plugs to come. Hopefully fit on Friday and see what issues it’s showing.
I drove home with the windows down when I called the AA and put them ip and locked the car while waiting for him. It was after his visit that it was locked in park, windows didn’t work and central locking failed.
He did put his jumper cables on which I guess is a standard practice for a non starter but my battery wasn’t the problem. That may have caused the spike you’ve mentioned. I have been recommended a good auto electrician who knows older vehicles.
Thanks and I’ll update progress

So coil packs and plugs changed and the car starts and runs smooth. Still has engine light on and HDC light on when running but the OBD port still doesn’t allow access to clear any fault codes. Still won’t move out of park with engine running or ignition on. Getting it to an auto electrician but still thinks the AA visit caused these issues.

Switch on brake pedal allows stick to move out of park. I think it is the small hall effect one, not the brake lamp switch. Maybe come unplugged or out of alignment. Or broken !!