heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Damn you are right they didnt add the glass sunroof until the 1990's which means my sunroof is aftermarket.
I owe an apology to Land Rover then, this is a piece of crap
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I owe an apology to Land Rover then, this is a piece of crap
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Cant believe I didnt spot that the sunroof was aftermarket, I think that it is so heavy and unsupported at the rear that it has distorted the roof so it has to go. Just bought a genuine roof that looks to be in good condition but its costing me a fortune in carriage.
Anyway on with the show, engine and gearbox out today all safely put to one side -
Next up is to get the chassis back into the garage and start stripping down.
Anyway on with the show, engine and gearbox out today all safely put to one side -
Next up is to get the chassis back into the garage and start stripping down.
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Has anyone fitted a ZF 4HP24 transmission to a classic? I think this is the route I am going down.
Sounds like it may need custom prop shafts, mounts, speedo connection and gear selector so some work
Sounds like it may need custom prop shafts, mounts, speedo connection and gear selector so some work
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
You can get the guts of a hp24 in to a hp22 case.
The 24 needs an ecu. Depending on the number it’s the same size even the wrong number is only 10-15 mm longer
As you have the lt230 you will need the tail housing off the 22 along with the intermediate shaft. Then you have to chop some off and drill the output shaft or replace it with 22 that you have.
Not sure what the ecu needs to work or if you could use the mechanical valve block from the 22.
If you phone Ashcroft they are very helpful.
J
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
I think I have misunderstood what Dave from Ashcroft's is suggesting I think it is what Henry_b has said the guts of a 24 inside a 22 case, no ECU Dave has confirmed. The thing that confuses me is that overall the transmission is 15mm longer which made me think that he was suggesting a full on 24 as fitted to the P38 replacement.
Thanks for the help I will get more info tomorrow from Ashcrofts
Thanks for the help I will get more info tomorrow from Ashcrofts
The early numbers 061(?) think are longer the 065 are the same length. Or is it the other way round
But as Henry says the 24 gubbins will fit in a 22 case. Which is the time to fit the 22 output shaft of course.
think the did a 22eh electronic control so if you have that fitted now then am sure a 24 ecu could be made to work, and if you get the right box the length is the same.
but you would still need the tail end mod.
they only fitted the 24 to the 4.6 Range Rove, although they did a line of 4.6 disco for export which would probably not be available to UK spares and rare.
It’s a bit of pick n mix, took me a while to piece together what to do, but have many bits now.
just picked up my little standalone 4.6gems immobiliser emulator module so no need for BECM
J
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Got the top and sides of the chassis done-
Spent a lot of time firstly cleaning then stripping off the surface rust with an angle grinder and flap discs, any awkward areas with a power file. Went over the whole chassis with the cup brush from hell in the angle grinder to remove any further rust then treated everything with a converter. Applied a thick coat of Corroless next by brush, most of which was sanded off after curing to fill in any of the multitude of small surface pock marks. Then two more coats with a flat down of each then finally two coats of 2K high build primer -
This in turn will be flatted before applying colour.
I am pleased with how its coming along a far cry from the rusty starting point. I have left the axles on because I need the chassis to be mobile so I can work on this -
New roof arrived, grubby but in good shape and will clean up very nicely. And Yay a factory original sunroof complete with supports -
Even came with the switch, better still it came with the ridiculously expensive £600+ controlling ECU, this was areal bargain -
Going to spend the next few days stripping cleaning and painting before looking at getting the original roof off
Spent a lot of time firstly cleaning then stripping off the surface rust with an angle grinder and flap discs, any awkward areas with a power file. Went over the whole chassis with the cup brush from hell in the angle grinder to remove any further rust then treated everything with a converter. Applied a thick coat of Corroless next by brush, most of which was sanded off after curing to fill in any of the multitude of small surface pock marks. Then two more coats with a flat down of each then finally two coats of 2K high build primer -
This in turn will be flatted before applying colour.
I am pleased with how its coming along a far cry from the rusty starting point. I have left the axles on because I need the chassis to be mobile so I can work on this -
New roof arrived, grubby but in good shape and will clean up very nicely. And Yay a factory original sunroof complete with supports -
Even came with the switch, better still it came with the ridiculously expensive £600+ controlling ECU, this was areal bargain -
Going to spend the next few days stripping cleaning and painting before looking at getting the original roof off
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Roof came off easy, spent some time cleaning, treating and priming the top surface, wont actually fit the new roof until I have painted the interior, weather is very poor here so not got that done yet -
New gearbox and transfer box arrived, things of beauty -
They are both beefed up with a larger torque converter and some stronger internal gears from the 4HP24.
At last a completely bare chassis, just need to figure out how to flip it over now to work on the underside -
When I lowered the rear axle both springs just fell off, the saddles are completely rotted through. I cant believe I drove this car home over 200 miles, if I had gone over a large bump in the road the springs would have fallen off. Anyway replacement saddles ordered just need to weld them on.
I am pleased to get to this point, it means that from now on it is all cleaning, prepping, painting and assembly. No more dealing with stuff like this -
No more rusted solid or mangled fixings to deal with which I have had my fair share of. The swivels gave me some grief, somebody had shredded two of the axle casing bolts on the drivers side and one on the passenger. They gave up and replaced the swivel seal by cutting it, feeding it in place and using some black goo to seal the gap. I used a power file to grind flats on either side of the head of the bolt then heat and a pair of stillsons shifted them eventually.
Anyway everything is free now and any broken bolts removed. In addition everything in terms of diffs, half shafts, CV joints etc are all in excellent condition although I will replace the swivels themselves.
Next up is to get the chassis finished then start work on the axle casings and other suspension components
New gearbox and transfer box arrived, things of beauty -
They are both beefed up with a larger torque converter and some stronger internal gears from the 4HP24.
At last a completely bare chassis, just need to figure out how to flip it over now to work on the underside -
When I lowered the rear axle both springs just fell off, the saddles are completely rotted through. I cant believe I drove this car home over 200 miles, if I had gone over a large bump in the road the springs would have fallen off. Anyway replacement saddles ordered just need to weld them on.
I am pleased to get to this point, it means that from now on it is all cleaning, prepping, painting and assembly. No more dealing with stuff like this -
No more rusted solid or mangled fixings to deal with which I have had my fair share of. The swivels gave me some grief, somebody had shredded two of the axle casing bolts on the drivers side and one on the passenger. They gave up and replaced the swivel seal by cutting it, feeding it in place and using some black goo to seal the gap. I used a power file to grind flats on either side of the head of the bolt then heat and a pair of stillsons shifted them eventually.
Anyway everything is free now and any broken bolts removed. In addition everything in terms of diffs, half shafts, CV joints etc are all in excellent condition although I will replace the swivels themselves.
Next up is to get the chassis finished then start work on the axle casings and other suspension components
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Yes I did, a few things to sort out regarding oil cooler pipes and prop shafts.
Forgot to mention, old engine has gone off to RPI I am hoping to get the new engine within a couple of weeks.
Forgot to mention, old engine has gone off to RPI I am hoping to get the new engine within a couple of weeks.
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heli_madken
Well-Known Member
My mad idea to flip the chassis over worked a treat, using a 3m sling and an engine crane I found the balance point first -
ALLEY-OOP! -
Lift up and rotate the chassis in the sling
Again no issues anywhere just dirt and surface rust to clean off.
Yesterday as the weather was good I got some 2K primer on the interior of the body and inner panels -
Then after a flatting/de-nib with scotch pads I pushed my luck and got some black on -
I had no sooner finished then it ****ed down, bastard!, only for about 10 seconds but enough to mar the finish.
Never mind it will fix, I wanted to get colour on to protect the body as primer is porous so I have achieved that at least. Too windy to get the new roof on will try tomorrow.
ALLEY-OOP! -
Lift up and rotate the chassis in the sling
Again no issues anywhere just dirt and surface rust to clean off.
Yesterday as the weather was good I got some 2K primer on the interior of the body and inner panels -
Then after a flatting/de-nib with scotch pads I pushed my luck and got some black on -
I had no sooner finished then it ****ed down, bastard!, only for about 10 seconds but enough to mar the finish.
Never mind it will fix, I wanted to get colour on to protect the body as primer is porous so I have achieved that at least. Too windy to get the new roof on will try tomorrow.
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Thanks Rich, much appreciated I am doing my best.
New roof on today in between showers, it feels so much stronger than the original and a nicer shape -
The sunroof supports work a treat, this is what was missing from the aftermarket version -
Wont actually fit the sunroof cassette until much later on
New roof on today in between showers, it feels so much stronger than the original and a nicer shape -
The sunroof supports work a treat, this is what was missing from the aftermarket version -
Wont actually fit the sunroof cassette until much later on
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
I made a cordless drill powered winch -
Stand at the top of the hill and winch a cordless mower up and down its good fun
Stand at the top of the hill and winch a cordless mower up and down its good fun
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
After a lot of time and effort the chassis is at last painted -
Photos aren't very good sorry.
In total the chassis, after stripping back with flap discs and wire cup brushes, has had a brush coat of Corroless, most of which was sanded off as its purpose was to fill the surface pitting. Then a sprayed coat of Corroless flatted back. Then a two coats of 2K acrylic primer which again was flatted off.
I followed this up with a good coat of 2K epoxy primer. Epoxy primer is much better at corrosion resistance than acrylic and harder wearing.
After flatting this back I finished with 2K acrylic black gloss.
Really pleased with the results. Not going to touch this now for a few days then give it a good polish and flood the inside with Dinitrol. Just have to then figure out how I am going to get it out of the garage to make room for the next phase which is prepping and painting all the suspension components.
Photos aren't very good sorry.
In total the chassis, after stripping back with flap discs and wire cup brushes, has had a brush coat of Corroless, most of which was sanded off as its purpose was to fill the surface pitting. Then a sprayed coat of Corroless flatted back. Then a two coats of 2K acrylic primer which again was flatted off.
I followed this up with a good coat of 2K epoxy primer. Epoxy primer is much better at corrosion resistance than acrylic and harder wearing.
After flatting this back I finished with 2K acrylic black gloss.
Really pleased with the results. Not going to touch this now for a few days then give it a good polish and flood the inside with Dinitrol. Just have to then figure out how I am going to get it out of the garage to make room for the next phase which is prepping and painting all the suspension components.
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
heli_madken
Well-Known Member
Weather has been reasonable here the last few days so I did a job I havent been looking forward to, stripped all the old stonechip off the underside of the body so I can address any issues that I find -
I used a multi-tool with a stripping blade which worked really well then cleaned anything left with strip discs and a powerfile.
I have some repairs to do on the scuttle then I can seal all the joints, get primer and stone chip where I need it then gloss black. Pleased to have got this out of the way it was tiring work using the tools upside down.
I used a multi-tool with a stripping blade which worked really well then cleaned anything left with strip discs and a powerfile.
I have some repairs to do on the scuttle then I can seal all the joints, get primer and stone chip where I need it then gloss black. Pleased to have got this out of the way it was tiring work using the tools upside down.
