Thanks everyone great stuff!
Best springs are police spec RRC. They stiffen up with a bit of load so don’t roll as much but no weight and it’s like riding on air.

Fitted these to disco/LR & 88” special
Won’t fit them to the hi cap as they don’t always like towing weight
They look interesting and sound like they would get me where I want to be. This is essentially a road car, the reason I put HD springs on was to try and counter roll and cope with the roads around here which are extremely bad but if they make the ride overly harsh I will change them.

I had also considered fitting roll bars which I may still do at some point, has anyone ever fitted them?

Terraheaposheet turrets, they look great, sadly they rust out within 24 months, same as all thier stuff, poor quality plenty of stuff on here about them, ask me how i know....
Terrafookits not good . Gwyn Lewis all day long IMO

Thanks for the heads up, doubt I would get 24 months out of them here the salt in the air is very aggressive. I am coating all mating faces with Dinitrol on the car, I think I will get some good protection on them now and keep an eye on them. As soon as they start to show any signs of corrosion I will take them off and paint them, thanks again.
 
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Thanks everyone great stuff!

They look interesting and sound like they would get me where I want to be. This is essentially a road car, the reason I put HD springs on was to try and counter roll and cope with the roads around here which are extremely bad but if they make the ride overly harsh I will change them.

I had also considered fitting roll bars which I may still do at some point, has anyone ever fitted them?



Thanks for the heads up, doubt I would get 24 months out of them here the salt in the air is very aggressive. I am coating all mating faces with Dinitrol on the car, I think I will get some good protection on them now and keep an eye on them. As soon as they start to show any signs of corrosion I will take them off and paint them, thanks again.
No worries, just so annoyed with TF, I had 4 shocks and turrets all rusted out in 24 months, already had thier brake discs as well and sure enough worn away very quickly, appears they are all branding and no quality control, not sure what paint they use appears to be salt water and acid based if you ask me lol.
 
Roll bars
You would need a lot of brackets for these to fit. Axle & chassis brackets need to be in the correct places.
Did not have any roll bars on my RRC and it handled well. And yep this was the mrs daily drive all year round(drove to off road racing,raced for the day & drove home)
1694188329612.jpeg
 
PS your rear top shock washers are on wrong way round!!
Oops!! :)

By the way what shocks did you end up using after the TF debacle?

TF wont last long if they dont get their act together quickly
Roll bars
You would need a lot of brackets for these to fit. Axle & chassis brackets need to be in the correct places.
Did not have any roll bars on my RRC and it handled well. And yep this was the mrs daily drive all year round(drove to off road racing,raced for the day & drove home)
Thanks for all your help and advice Hicap phill. The kit I was looking at did look daunting to fit and would need the car under load I think before positioning the brackets so it would have to be done at a later date.

You RRC looks like a handy bit of kit!
 
Oops!! :)

By the way what shocks did you end up using after the TF debacle?

TF wont last long if they dont get their act together quickly

Thanks for all your help and advice Hicap phill. The kit I was looking at did look daunting to fit and would need the car under load I think before positioning the brackets so it would have to be done at a later date.

You RRC looks like a handy bit of kit!
Old Man Emu and Gwyn Lewis turrets, see my build thread for pics etc Click here

front n rear shocks and the turrets over the next few pages etc
 
Half a rolling chassis!
20230914_162949.jpg

20230914_162829.jpg

I am using the old discs for now as I dont want to damage anything new whilst I fit the body back in place so no gaskets or calipers fitted or end float set as yet but new bearings, stub axle and seals in place -
20230914_153303.jpg

A bit better looking than its was -
20230704_095909.jpg

I have all the front axle components prepped and painted now plus new swivels and seals etc so I can get this done hopefully over the next couple of days 'IF' the weather holds
 
It’s looking very impressive. Once finished there is little doubt bits will be swapped and changed to suit your preferences. It’s what we do.
Outstanding work though. Looking forward to the progress. 👍
 
Gave up on waiting for some good weather and managed to get the chassis back into the garage so I could get the front axle built up. All new bearings, seals, swivels etc -
20230921_171936.jpg

20230921_172001.jpg

Again old disc back on for now so set the preload on the swivel housings but not end float on the hubs. Take no notice of the brake dust shield brackets on the top of the swivel housings they are their for a reason. I zinc plated the filler and drain plugs rather than buy new.

Finally then I have a rolling chassis -
20230922_152544.jpg

20230922_152616.jpg

20230922_152602.jpg

Apologies for the
Terraheaposheet
steering damper, I had already bought it so it will do for now. The Britpart drag link seams quite substantial except for the damper mounting made up of a couple of hoops of 6mm steel, not too happy with that -
20230922_152637.jpg

Any advice on fitting the cross member without scratching to hell the paint? day dreaming about rigging up a couple of trolley jacks to spread the chassis apart a little.

After that its prep and painting of the engine and gearbox mounts.
 
Gave up on waiting for some good weather and managed to get the chassis back into the garage so I could get the front axle built up. All new bearings, seals, swivels etc -
View attachment 298426
View attachment 298427
Again old disc back on for now so set the preload on the swivel housings but not end float on the hubs. Take no notice of the brake dust shield brackets on the top of the swivel housings they are their for a reason. I zinc plated the filler and drain plugs rather than buy new.

Finally then I have a rolling chassis -
View attachment 298428
View attachment 298430
View attachment 298432
Apologies for the

steering damper, I had already bought it so it will do for now. The Britpart drag link seams quite substantial except for the damper mounting made up of a couple of hoops of 6mm steel, not too happy with that -View attachment 298431
Any advice on fitting the cross member without scratching to hell the paint? day dreaming about rigging up a couple of trolley jacks to spread the chassis apart a little.

After that its prep and painting of the engine and gearbox mounts.
grease it, and spread a LITTLE....and stop laughing you lot and your dirty minds...
 
Gave up on waiting for some good weather and managed to get the chassis back into the garage so I could get the front axle built up. All new bearings, seals, swivels etc -
View attachment 298426
View attachment 298427
Again old disc back on for now so set the preload on the swivel housings but not end float on the hubs. Take no notice of the brake dust shield brackets on the top of the swivel housings they are their for a reason. I zinc plated the filler and drain plugs rather than buy new.

Finally then I have a rolling chassis -
View attachment 298428
View attachment 298430
View attachment 298432
Apologies for the

steering damper, I had already bought it so it will do for now. The Britpart drag link seams quite substantial except for the damper mounting made up of a couple of hoops of 6mm steel, not too happy with that -View attachment 298431
Any advice on fitting the cross member without scratching to hell the paint? day dreaming about rigging up a couple of trolley jacks to spread the chassis apart a little.

After that its prep and painting of the engine and gearbox mounts.
you can guess what imgonna say.....OME damper is the way to go!!!
 
Do you have a bottle jack? Blocks of wood to help the paint.
Probably the best bet, the car didnt come with a bottle jack but I will obviously need one for road use so will get one ordered.

Yep lots of lube is the way to go :)

Is the OME damper smaller in diameter than the TF one? another problem is that it is fouling the drag link slightly, not much but it will take off the passivate coating
 
Probably the best bet, the car didnt come with a bottle jack but I will obviously need one for road use so will get one ordered.

Yep lots of lube is the way to go :)

Is the OME damper smaller in diameter than the TF one? another problem is that it is fouling the drag link slightly, not much but it will take off the passivate coating
my ome is a tad smaller than the terrabagosheet one. check gwyn lewis webiste details or arb / ome site for detailed specs
 
This is absolutely incredible. I'm green with envy at your skill! What a fantastic build, well done mate, following with awe! 😊
 
Game of 'Spot the Difference' anyone?
20231105_160456.jpg

The past six weeks have been a nightmare, after being in the garage for a few days in the warm micro blisters started appearing on the chassis -
20230923_101312.jpg

Paint supplier believes it to be caused by damp in the primer so they are moisture blisters rather than solvent pop.

I spent some time flatting them back and polishing them out but within 24 hours more where appearing at a good rate, strange as the paint had been applied a few weeks earlier but now the reaction was speeding up.

So I made the daunting decision to take all the paint off back to bare metal and start again, this is a significant task as there are many hard to access areas on the chassis so it took a few days to get all the paint off.

Next decision was what to do about paint as I have never experienced this before. I took the following approach to prevent it happening again -

1. Dry sanding of primer only, I am a bit old school and still wet sand primer as its easier with less risk of scratching the surface.
2. Control the humidity level. Average external humidity level here is 86% so anything less than that is a bonus. I painted the chassis in June which you would expect to be ok but the weather was awful. Looking back at my weather station records on the 14th when I painted the chassis the humidity was 92%. I didn't think to run my de-humidifier so this time I will run it overnight and aim for a 60% internal humidity level.
3. Control the temperature, use my IR panel heater to bring the temperature in the garage up to an acceptable level.
4. Strict control of mixing volumes and flash off times to make sure it isn't solvent pop after all.
5. Make sure my three airline filters are in good order, I run an initial filter at the compressor, then an internal 3 stage filter plus an inline filter.
6. Use a fresh batch of paint just in case.

So after a week of priming, sanding and prepping I was good to go. Waited for a good dry day, made absolutely sure the primer was dry and cured then sprayed the 2K acrylic black. Went on great and looked superb so I left the panel heater on over night to help curing and went to bed.

Next morning I went to the garage to have a look and guess what, micro blisters everywhere WTF!!

I am totally baffled, the problem hasn't appeared on any other parts that I have sprayed with the same paint and processes. Neither have I experienced anything like it in over 40 years of painting, I think I can only blame the weather and global warming.

So where to go from there? I had to dig deep and start again stripping back to bare metal, I tell you I was gutted. No point in taking a chance and using the same paint again so I decided to go with Corroless RF16 and to give me something different to aim for and break the monotony of it all a bit go with a mid-grey colour.

So again after a week of preparation and only using Corroless S1 primer this time following the manufacturers recommendation exactly I sprayed the top colour coat. This is the first time I have sprayed RF16 and I must say I am very impressed, goes on very nicely and flows out great without any tendency to sag at all. Its perhaps what I should have used in the first place as it is designed for this purpose.

Next morning it had dried rock hard and looked great so at last I am almost back to where I was 6 weeks ago:(

Never mind, good news is that my new engine is due this week so I am going to start gearing up to get the gearbox and engine fitted.

Apologies for the long post
 
Wow! What tenacity. You have done so well there. If that was me it would still be in the garage, blisters and all while I would be in the house, pretending it had never happened with my bottom lip sticking out having a mardy.
 
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