MadManish

MadManish

Member
Hi chaps just wondered would a 30-135 amp mig be ok for use on an old lightweight s3??

I have read that you need 150 amps to do chassis repairs is there any truth in this?
Ta lads I'm off for a :tea:
 
As Dr E says, the tiddler welders haven't got the output or the duty cycle rating to do heavy welds at the highest power.

Look for up to 175/200A at least, and check the duty cycle as well, that makes a big difference.

Peter
 
I though stick/arc welders won't do thin bits of steel (foot wells etc)?? If that's not the case and a stick welder will do the job trust me I'll get one. I'm all for doing things like a man I use an open razor and went up Ben Nevis dressed in tweed!
 
Stick welder will if you get one that goes low enough, I've welded the bulkhead with mine but diff pans are far too thin for it.......
 
MadManish said:
I though stick/arc welders won't do thin bits of steel (foot wells etc)?? If that's not the case and a stick welder will do the job trust me I'll get one. I'm all for doing things like a man I use an open razor and went up Ben Nevis dressed in tweed!
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you dont want a stick unless you want holes , use your mig,chassis plate isnt that thick, 2mm 135 amp welder will weld that
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
stick welder is not the right tool
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Its what they would have used originally.....only managed to blow a hole in my chassis because I forgot to turn the amps back down after making up some sliders. The rotten 2.5mm didn't react well to 120A and 7018's
 
MadManish said:
So a little 135-150amp mig will be fine?? Anybody got a wolf mig welder or have any opinions on them??
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the only problems with little welders is they dont like constant use but for repairs that shouldnt be an issue and they dont turn down as far as bigger better welders, fine for most landy stuff but might struggle on the thinnest stuff
 
pressbrake said:
Not right tool for a beginner but I'd trust a £100 arc over £200 mig with someone's life any day
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I trust my £40 Oxford arc :p


An old Oxford or Pickhill Bantam like I have will outlive any welder on the market today as well! Plus when they die they're worth more in scrap copper now than when they were new!
 
From what I have been told I need a mig that will drop down to 40amps for the thin stuff would that be right??
 
Buy the most expensive second hand one you can afford, I'd suggest a make like murex or miller, old butters units are good too or a second hand portamig
 
MadManish said:
So far from what I can see I need to do the door bottoms, foot wells and the rad panels at the front.
Click to expand...

none of those are over thin, i used to use a 130 snap on (cebora)welder years ago as was easily transported not as good as my workshop welder but did well enough
 
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