julianf
Well-Known Member
None of you are warning the man off! You’re encouraging him to get welders, workshops and start chucking all his time and money at it.
He's already made his bed, by buying it.
May as well advise him from here on in.
There was a post on another forum from a chap thinking about buying a range rover classic. I've been doing my best to try and convince him not to.
But the OPs money (at least the start of it) is spend now. He's signed up for the pain of it.
Just to address your second post - on my 96 disco, the chassis was always the battle. Sure the body was grim also at the end, but the chassis was what, ultimately, I gave up on.
It's engine still lives on in my 110 though!
Kenbo
Active Member
Might I suggest that after you establish that your D1 drives reasonably well you lift the carpets back front and rear to check how good (or bad) the floors and bulkhead are. Also peel back the rear boot mat to inspect as rear floor and inner arches are known serious rust traps. Also sills and inner sills. Most repair panels are available.
I don't want to discourage you but it's helpful to know the full extent of the repairs needed. After all these are almost 30 years old or more now. now.
I was lucky, mine is good in most areas but another I had previously bought cheaply for the farm was too far gone to restore.
I don't want to discourage you but it's helpful to know the full extent of the repairs needed. After all these are almost 30 years old or more now. now.
I was lucky, mine is good in most areas but another I had previously bought cheaply for the farm was too far gone to restore.
BillyDisco1
Member
Thanks Mick, will get that for myself
BillyDisco1
Member
Simplest fix of them all, thank you
BillyDisco1
Member
Thanks for the bit of history, I've seen somewhere online say there was only 150 made.
I have 2 keys and 2 fobs for the car, only one locks the car neither unlock it, unlocking it with the key works fine bar the back left door which as you suggest could be that. I'd say its an issue with the fobs
BillyDisco1
Member
Thanks will have a look at it, checked the boot floor the other day, some surface rust but solid all round thankfully. Definitely need to do all the seals as the carpet is wet.
My friend and I are discussing turning his garage full of stuff into a workshop for both of our Land Rovers (He has 2 P38s) and his Jaguars as well. I think it is worth doing.
BillyDisco1
Member
Yeah the money pit has begun but it isn't too far away from being on the road. I have driven it in my friend's field since my original post and the car runs and drives brilliantly, the gearbox and clutch are A1. All electrics work bar the radio which I do have the code for thankfully.
First task is to get the chassis sorted, then the various rust patches done, then do the brakes, new tyres, and a bonnet latch, be through the NCT in no time
BillyDisco1
Member
And fit the new exhaust, bumper, sills, and lower tailgate hinge.Yeah the money pit has begun but it isn't too far away from being on the road. I have driven it in my friend's field since my original post and the car runs and drives brilliantly, the gearbox and clutch are A1. All electrics work bar the radio which I do have the code for thankfully.
First task is to get the chassis sorted, then the various rust patches done, then do the brakes, new tyres, and a bonnet latch, be through the NCT in no time
BillyDisco1
Member
Yeah so I have had a look under neath the car prior to purchasing and also since purchasing I have been spending most of my free time with it, doing things to it, and making it not a biohazard, All arches bar the front right are good, both sills need doing inner and outer (500 without labour), floors are good, interior floors are not wet and are solid, rear carpet is wet and there is some surface rust on the boot floor but it is solid as I have tested it.
The body panels are all good, with virtually no rust below the roofline with some bubbling on the roof and around one of the alpine windows, rear half of the chassis needs attention, front half is good.
All the suspension is good, it drives good, gearbox and clutch is good. Interior is well preserved just absolutely filthy and it was mouldy which has been cleaned and will be cleaned again with a wetvac which I have just purchased.
My aim is to have the car on the road in 12 weeks. We will see how that plays out.
Thanks for your response
Kenbo
Active Member
I've found on two Discos that lazy central locking can be lack of use. My current one sits in a dry garage for 10 months each year, once it's been in use for a couple of days central locking works much better. Admittedly I don't trust it completely.
BillyDisco1
Member
That was what my thoughts were, when locking it did seem lazy and unlocking it didn't want to do but key in the door solves that. I'd say once the car is in daily use it may improve.
BillyDisco1
Member
The battery lost charge one night, charged it up the next day and it started on the first turn of the key no thoughts about it. Must be getting the old fuel out of the system by now too.
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BillyDisco1
Member
Also another interesting issue is when I put on my indicator it ticks quick like I have a dead bulb, all bulbs are good. When I put on the hazards it ticks normally but the trailer light flashes, there is no trailer connected and so I am not sure why it thinks there is. How do I fix that?
