Flossie · Apr 19, 2022

Or O rings, don't know yet..
Carpet wet drivers side, bit of wet in the lower heater duct outlet, occasionally whiff the sweet smell of antifreeze

.
https://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/dash-removal/
This guide doesn't look too bad, take the whole dash out so I can check other stuff?

Datatek · Apr 19, 2022

Flossie said:
Or O rings, don't know yet..
Carpet wet drivers side, bit of wet in the lower heater duct outlet, occasionally whiff the sweet smell of antifreeze .
https://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/dash-removal/
This guide doesn't look too bad, take the whole dash out so I can check other stuff?

Probably just the O rings so no need to remove the dash.

kermit_rr · Apr 19, 2022

if you need to triple check its not rain water then remember antifreeze is slippy between your fingers, if you can sop it up with a piece of kitchen towel then you'll see the colour
if you can pressure test, its easier to have a look when the pipes aren't hot

Flossie · Apr 19, 2022

Datatek said:
Probably just the O rings so no need to remove the dash.

I've no idea of pipe/ heater box/ O ring positions etc buuuuut...would O ring leakage escape from the lower heater vent? Is there any panels that can be fairly easily removed to see the O ring area? I do have a cheap aldi boroscope

Datatek · Apr 19, 2022

Flossie said:
I've no idea of pipe/ heater box/ O ring positions etc buuuuut...would O ring leakage escape from the lower heater vent? Is there any panels that can be fairly easily removed to see the O ring area? I do have a cheap aldi boroscope

Yes it appears to drip out of the lower vent. Panel under the steering wheel out, centre console sides etc. There is a full guide on RR.net. You do have to cut one ventilator duct and refit with duct tape but it's not a huge job apart from getting the retaining screw out.

Flossie · Apr 19, 2022

Datatek said:
Yes it appears to drip out of the lower vent. Panel under the steering wheel out, centre console sides etc. There is a full guide on RR.net. You do have to cut one ventilator duct and refit with duct tape but it's not a huge job apart from getting the retaining screw out.

Yes I've read a few guides including that one probably. Is that the one where you make a hole through the side consul and use a long screwdriver to get the pipe connection screw out?
Lots of jobs to do this summer!
Headliner recover.
Cut out and weld a new flexy to the exhaust downpipe.
Fix the Aircon.
And this leak of course.

Datatek · Apr 19, 2022

Flossie said:
Yes I've read a few guides including that one probably. Is that the one where you make a hole through the side consul and use a long screwdriver to get the pipe connection screw out?
Lots of jobs to do this summer!
Headliner recover.
Cut out and weld a new flexy to the exhaust downpipe.
Fix the Aircon.
And this leak of course.

Yes, that sounds like the one. replace the screw with an Allen head one, easier to get out next time

Left hand drive cars are harder to do

tomcat59alan · Apr 19, 2022

Flossie said:
Yes I've read a few guides including that one probably. Is that the one where you make a hole through the side consul and use a long screwdriver to get the pipe connection screw out?
Lots of jobs to do this summer!
Headliner recover.
Cut out and weld a new flexy to the exhaust downpipe.
Fix the Aircon.
And this leak of course.

The screw is easily accessible with the radio removed and a very long screwdriver.

dubbleRR · Apr 19, 2022

And when you undo the screw theirs lots more water to come out ,even when the system is drained

so get plenty rags

...

tomcat59alan · Apr 19, 2022

dubbleRR said:
And when you undo the screw theirs lots more water to come out ,even when the system is drained so get plenty rags...

If you've got a compressor, even a small 12v one you could disconnect the heater pipes and blow any water out of the matrix.

Flossie · Apr 19, 2022

tomcat59alan said:
If you've got a compressor, even a small 12v one you could disconnect the heater pipes and blow any water out of the matrix.

I've got a big one

Gord Wedman · Apr 19, 2022

I replaced my O rings with Viton ones over a year ago and was good until yesterday when I noticed an antifreeze smell and discovered a small dribble on the transmission tunnel. Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.
To gain access I cut a hole in the side panel. Not sure if you can get the correct angle after taking out the radio. In the second photo the clamping screw is hidden between the two heater core pipe attachments. Couldn't get a better photo but I can see the clamp screw if I look through the opening I made.

Rubberknees · Apr 19, 2022

Just put the Audi heater matrix in like I did. No more O rings to worry about

Marshall8hp · Apr 20, 2022

+1 on the Audi core. Nissens 70230 is the one to use.

tomcat59alan · Apr 20, 2022

Flossie said:
I've got a big one

I've heard the rumours, even if they were started by you.

tomcat59alan · Apr 20, 2022

Gord Wedman said:
I replaced my O rings with Viton ones over a year ago and was good until yesterday when I noticed an antifreeze smell and discovered a small dribble on the transmission tunnel. Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.
To gain access I cut a hole in the side panel. Not sure if you can get the correct angle after taking out the radio. In the second photo the clamping screw is hidden between the two heater core pipe attachments. Couldn't get a better photo but I can see the clamp screw if I look through the opening I made.

View attachment 263345

View attachment 263346

The screwdriver I used was over two foot long so it could bend a bit to get the right position on the screw, more of a deflection than a bend, I never had to butcher my panel like you have but perhaps that's because my handlebars are on the right hand side.

dubbleRR · Apr 20, 2022

Gord Wedman said:
Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.

Caution when doing up the screw ,once the pipe bracket is home ,more screwing will break the matrix ,when i did mine i applied a little high temp instant gasket to the rubber seals ,time will tell....

Datatek · Apr 20, 2022

Flossie said:
I've got a big one

Boasting again

Flossie · Apr 20, 2022

Gord Wedman said:
I replaced my O rings with Viton ones over a year ago and was good until yesterday when I noticed an antifreeze smell and discovered a small dribble on the transmission tunnel. Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.
To gain access I cut a hole in the side panel. Not sure if you can get the correct angle after taking out the radio. In the second photo the clamping screw is hidden between the two heater core pipe attachments. Couldn't get a better photo but I can see the clamp screw if I look through the opening I made.

View attachment 263345

View attachment 263346

That 2nd pic is useful ta

Flossie · Apr 20, 2022

Marshall8hp said:
+1 on the Audi core. Nissens 70230 is the one to use.

I've read conflicting stuff about the audi mod
Less heat, splitting matrix for example. The O rings last for years, probably long after I've popped off

. Not totally against the idea though.

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