if you need to triple check its not rain water then remember antifreeze is slippy between your fingers, if you can sop it up with a piece of kitchen towel then you'll see the colour
if you can pressure test, its easier to have a look when the pipes aren't hot
 
Probably just the O rings so no need to remove the dash.
I've no idea of pipe/ heater box/ O ring positions etc buuuuut...would O ring leakage escape from the lower heater vent? Is there any panels that can be fairly easily removed to see the O ring area? I do have a cheap aldi boroscope o_O:D
 
I've no idea of pipe/ heater box/ O ring positions etc buuuuut...would O ring leakage escape from the lower heater vent? Is there any panels that can be fairly easily removed to see the O ring area? I do have a cheap aldi boroscope o_O:D
Yes it appears to drip out of the lower vent. Panel under the steering wheel out, centre console sides etc. There is a full guide on RR.net. You do have to cut one ventilator duct and refit with duct tape but it's not a huge job apart from getting the retaining screw out.
 
Yes it appears to drip out of the lower vent. Panel under the steering wheel out, centre console sides etc. There is a full guide on RR.net. You do have to cut one ventilator duct and refit with duct tape but it's not a huge job apart from getting the retaining screw out.
Yes I've read a few guides including that one probably. Is that the one where you make a hole through the side consul and use a long screwdriver to get the pipe connection screw out?
Lots of jobs to do this summer!
Headliner recover.
Cut out and weld a new flexy to the exhaust downpipe.
Fix the Aircon.
And this leak of course.
 
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Yes I've read a few guides including that one probably. Is that the one where you make a hole through the side consul and use a long screwdriver to get the pipe connection screw out?
Lots of jobs to do this summer!
Headliner recover.
Cut out and weld a new flexy to the exhaust downpipe.
Fix the Aircon.
And this leak of course.
Yes, that sounds like the one. replace the screw with an Allen head one, easier to get out next time:D
Left hand drive cars are harder to do:(
 
Yes I've read a few guides including that one probably. Is that the one where you make a hole through the side consul and use a long screwdriver to get the pipe connection screw out?
Lots of jobs to do this summer!
Headliner recover.
Cut out and weld a new flexy to the exhaust downpipe.
Fix the Aircon.
And this leak of course.
The screw is easily accessible with the radio removed and a very long screwdriver.
 
And when you undo the screw theirs lots more water to come out ,even when the system is drained:eek: so get plenty rags;)...
 
I replaced my O rings with Viton ones over a year ago and was good until yesterday when I noticed an antifreeze smell and discovered a small dribble on the transmission tunnel. Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.
To gain access I cut a hole in the side panel. Not sure if you can get the correct angle after taking out the radio. In the second photo the clamping screw is hidden between the two heater core pipe attachments. Couldn't get a better photo but I can see the clamp screw if I look through the opening I made.

20220419_120247.jpg


20220419_120538.jpg
 
I replaced my O rings with Viton ones over a year ago and was good until yesterday when I noticed an antifreeze smell and discovered a small dribble on the transmission tunnel. Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.
To gain access I cut a hole in the side panel. Not sure if you can get the correct angle after taking out the radio. In the second photo the clamping screw is hidden between the two heater core pipe attachments. Couldn't get a better photo but I can see the clamp screw if I look through the opening I made.

View attachment 263345

View attachment 263346
The screwdriver I used was over two foot long so it could bend a bit to get the right position on the screw, more of a deflection than a bend, I never had to butcher my panel like you have but perhaps that's because my handlebars are on the right hand side.
 
Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.
Caution when doing up the screw ,once the pipe bracket is home ,more screwing will break the matrix ,when i did mine i applied a little high temp instant gasket to the rubber seals ,time will tell....;)
 
I replaced my O rings with Viton ones over a year ago and was good until yesterday when I noticed an antifreeze smell and discovered a small dribble on the transmission tunnel. Took the side panel off the transmission and managed to get the hex bit on the clamping screw and tightened a bit more. Wish me luck.
To gain access I cut a hole in the side panel. Not sure if you can get the correct angle after taking out the radio. In the second photo the clamping screw is hidden between the two heater core pipe attachments. Couldn't get a better photo but I can see the clamp screw if I look through the opening I made.

View attachment 263345

View attachment 263346
That 2nd pic is useful ta:)
 
+1 on the Audi core. Nissens 70230 is the one to use.
I've read conflicting stuff about the audi mod
Less heat, splitting matrix for example. The O rings last for years, probably long after I've popped off:D. Not totally against the idea though.
 

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