Richard Coupe
New Member
To bring this to a close at last, got another fuel injection ECU from an ebay shop (Classic LSE, well done that shop!) and hey presto we're back in business again. I guess we could have got here sooner if we bought the fault code reader but then again we would be down maybe £100 to buy one! Well it was a challenge and I have a better knowledge of LSE workings now, ready for next time!!! Now I'm going to fix the busted ECU, may even reconstruct the circuit diagram in the next week or so.
I could rant on here about the lack of technical data and its implications to the cost of maintenance of these classic cars but I wont. Thank goodness for cheap secondhand bits!
Thanks Eightinavee for your encouragement!
I could rant on here about the lack of technical data and its implications to the cost of maintenance of these classic cars but I wont. Thank goodness for cheap secondhand bits!
Thanks Eightinavee for your encouragement!
eightinavee
Well-Known Member
Excellent result,done without loads of test gear - and now you have lots more understanding of how it works - Need a job ? !!!!!!
paul richards
New Member
Check first that fuel pump primes fuel rail when power is switched on. This is a must. Best suggestion as before get a good working car alongside yours and swap bits untill yours runs ok. From previous problems i find this is the best way.
PatrickUganda
New Member
My first post on this forum, after many weeks of trawling through the Net and building up hundreds of pages of information. I imported a 3.9 Vogue Efi Auto from the UK in 2008, and this is a brief history:
When she arrived she was converted to run on LPG and Petrol, and ran like a top. Due to there being no LPG in East Africa, this was my first order of business, to save on weight an complexity I disconnected the tanks, blanked off the pipes, and returned the injector multiplugs back the originals. I then removed the wiring that connected the emulators to the injectors, and removed the unit that introduces gas just before the plenum intake.
She then developed a miss on injector number 4. I cleaned it, which cured the miss. I also put in Bosch super-4 plugs in at this stage
Then began the worst of it - she would run perfectly when cold in the mornings. When she got to operating temperature, she would stutter cough and choke all from tickover to 2000rpm, but would run smoothly above 2000rpm. This was very discouraging and rendered the vehicle undrivable, so she sat in the driveway for about 7 months. During this time, someone accidentally left the sun roof open during a rainstorm, which may have wet all the electrics under the seats.
I have tried to get the car as dry as possible inside, but I suspect some of the connections may still have water in them. I recently changed the AFM, TPS, Fuel temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, stepper motor, and fuel pressure regulator, and swapped out the Bosch Super 4's for conventional Bosch plugs with a gap of 0.8mm.
She runs better (i.e. she is drivable once she gets going), but she is a pig to get running when cold. She will stall repeatedly until I actually achieve forward motion (tricky in an auto to start and then engage drive and play with the throttle to keep the revs up without crashing into anything!).
Once she gets going, there is good power on kickdown, smooth idle, does not cut out in traffic. The only problem that remains is that if I floor the pedal from tickover, she will hesitate, sputter and rev up smoothly after that. I have discovered though that there is no vaccum advance, as when I suck on the pipe, there is no movement on the dizzy base plate
I once left the AFM accidentally disconnected, and she started and ran perfectly for 4 days, with the only downside being a horribly sooty exhaust.
I have the correct Efi Manual and am now keen to diagnose my14CUX system with a multimeter. Now for the silly question: The diagrams for the 21 multimeter tests would seem fairly straightforward to anyone else, but to me they are indecipherable. Can anyone let me know how the multimetermeter is actually connected up when doing these tests?
I'm determined to get the car running properly, and am considering a complete Rpi ignition system upgrade (Dizzy, Amplifier, Coil, leads) but would like to do the multimeter checks first before I spend any more time and money importing kit to Uganda from the UK.
By the way - there is no expert in Uganda, and there is nowhere I can take the car for any sort of Land Rover diagnostics
Apologies for the rambling rant, and any help or advice is very much appreciated.
When she arrived she was converted to run on LPG and Petrol, and ran like a top. Due to there being no LPG in East Africa, this was my first order of business, to save on weight an complexity I disconnected the tanks, blanked off the pipes, and returned the injector multiplugs back the originals. I then removed the wiring that connected the emulators to the injectors, and removed the unit that introduces gas just before the plenum intake.
She then developed a miss on injector number 4. I cleaned it, which cured the miss. I also put in Bosch super-4 plugs in at this stage
Then began the worst of it - she would run perfectly when cold in the mornings. When she got to operating temperature, she would stutter cough and choke all from tickover to 2000rpm, but would run smoothly above 2000rpm. This was very discouraging and rendered the vehicle undrivable, so she sat in the driveway for about 7 months. During this time, someone accidentally left the sun roof open during a rainstorm, which may have wet all the electrics under the seats.
I have tried to get the car as dry as possible inside, but I suspect some of the connections may still have water in them. I recently changed the AFM, TPS, Fuel temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, stepper motor, and fuel pressure regulator, and swapped out the Bosch Super 4's for conventional Bosch plugs with a gap of 0.8mm.
She runs better (i.e. she is drivable once she gets going), but she is a pig to get running when cold. She will stall repeatedly until I actually achieve forward motion (tricky in an auto to start and then engage drive and play with the throttle to keep the revs up without crashing into anything!).
Once she gets going, there is good power on kickdown, smooth idle, does not cut out in traffic. The only problem that remains is that if I floor the pedal from tickover, she will hesitate, sputter and rev up smoothly after that. I have discovered though that there is no vaccum advance, as when I suck on the pipe, there is no movement on the dizzy base plate
I once left the AFM accidentally disconnected, and she started and ran perfectly for 4 days, with the only downside being a horribly sooty exhaust.
I have the correct Efi Manual and am now keen to diagnose my14CUX system with a multimeter. Now for the silly question: The diagrams for the 21 multimeter tests would seem fairly straightforward to anyone else, but to me they are indecipherable. Can anyone let me know how the multimetermeter is actually connected up when doing these tests?
I'm determined to get the car running properly, and am considering a complete Rpi ignition system upgrade (Dizzy, Amplifier, Coil, leads) but would like to do the multimeter checks first before I spend any more time and money importing kit to Uganda from the UK.
By the way - there is no expert in Uganda, and there is nowhere I can take the car for any sort of Land Rover diagnostics
Apologies for the rambling rant, and any help or advice is very much appreciated.
