Fûcking site.... Arrrgh.. I'm going out to to fix cars.....
No EASLPG needs a perfect ignition system, if there are any weaknesses in the system it will be more pronounced on LPG.
Coils?
No EASLPG needs a perfect ignition system, if there are any weaknesses in the system it will be more pronounced on LPG.
Coils?
Nice bit of investigating, inspector gadget.This evening, I decided to trace the MAF wiring back to the ECU, in case there was a short circuit somewhere... There were none!
However, after stripping the top end of the engine (inlet off to access wires), I find I have to stick it all back together again tomorrow
I had rare fun inspecting every millimetre of the MAF loom... but I found the issue (I think) that's been dogging me since I bought this car!
OK, not the best photo, but you can almost see in the 3rd slot along that the greeny grotty mess is not what should be showing.
The plug is showing clearly that it is a mess
So I'm pretty certain this MUST be my MAF issue, because I have found NO other issue within the loom
This evening, I decided to trace the MAF wiring back to the ECU, in case there was a short circuit somewhere... There were none!
However, after stripping the top end of the engine (inlet off to access wires), I find I have to stick it all back together again tomorrow
I had rare fun inspecting every millimetre of the MAF loom... but I found the issue (I think) that's been dogging me since I bought this car!
OK, not the best photo, but you can almost see in the 3rd slot along that the greeny grotty mess is not what should be showing.
The plug is showing clearly that it is a mess
So I'm pretty certain this MUST be my MAF issue, because I have found NO other issue within the loom
Can you cut an emery-board into (pin-socket sized) slivers and insert/remove and then wash out with electrical cleaner?Thank you for all the replies. Yes it's the main ECU, but it lives behind my cruise control module The box behind my battery is empty...
Anyhoo, the green is dry and has been for a while. But I suspect it is the culprit as everything else is fine. So today, I'll mostly be taping up a million feet of loom
I've opened up the case and while the pins are grotty, the insides are clean and dry. Although I did find what looked like dusty grot between two bits of solder, as if water had boiled dry... I'm hoping not. If I put her back together and get the same misfire, I imagine I'll need to get it fixed.
I cleaned the pins on the ECU with an emery board I got from her indoors. I'm still puzzling how to clean the open ends on the plug, but I'm hoping the paper clip will reach inside and I'll scrape as much crud as I can...
The green stuff on the plastic is copper sulphate which is a conductor so will cause short circuits between the pins. you need to get rid of every trace.Thank you for all the replies. Yes it's the main ECU, but it lives behind my cruise control module The box behind my battery is empty...
Anyhoo, the green is dry and has been for a while. But I suspect it is the culprit as everything else is fine. So today, I'll mostly be taping up a million feet of loom
I've opened up the case and while the pins are grotty, the insides are clean and dry. Although I did find what looked like dusty grot between two bits of solder, as if water had boiled dry... I'm hoping not. If I put her back together and get the same misfire, I imagine I'll need to get it fixed.
I cleaned the pins on the ECU with an emery board I got from her indoors. I'm still puzzling how to clean the open ends on the plug, but I'm hoping the paper clip will reach inside and I'll scrape as much crud as I can...
Gearbox fault is often a sign of low battery volts and as it goes off after the engine starts that more or less confirms it.Seems the car didn't like being fixed!
Started up and immediately knew it wasn't happy. Normally fires up to around 900rpm then in no time settles to 750rpm.
However, it revved up to around 1200rpm then started hunting up and down then after around 15 seconds settled down to around 850rpm.
Tried to rev it but she almost stalls.
Disconnected the MAF and now she's hunting 450rpm to 825rpm.
So clearly the MAF is making contact now and she's gone to full enriched and it stinks. I think I'll have a problem getting her to the indy because she's pretty much undrivable
I can only assume I've either fixed it and this is her needing fuel trims reset or I've introduced leccy to the part of the ECU that didn't get any for so long it's gone bang.
I'm concerned about the gearbox fault that's also suddenly appeared. It goes off after she starts so can't be a major issue. I didn't disturb the temp sensor at the oil cooler not is the battery faulty.
Gearbox fault is often a sign of low battery volts and as it goes off after the engine starts that more or less confirms it.
Thank you for all the replies. Yes it's the main ECU, but it lives behind my cruise control module The box behind my battery is empty...
Anyhoo, the green is dry and has been for a while. But I suspect it is the culprit as everything else is fine. So today, I'll mostly be taping up a million feet of loom
I've opened up the case and while the pins are grotty, the insides are clean and dry. Although I did find what looked like dusty grot between two bits of solder, as if water had boiled dry... I'm hoping not. If I put her back together and get the same misfire, I imagine I'll need to get it fixed.
I cleaned the pins on the ECU with an emery board I got from her indoors. I'm still puzzling how to clean the open ends on the plug, but I'm hoping the paper clip will reach inside and I'll scrape as much crud as I can...
Vinegar and salt would certainly enhance the corrosion Isopropyl alcohol is good or Aeroclene 50.You can get dinky little files for cleaning the pins. Also, check YouTube for cleaning electrical connectors. Think there's something with spirit vinegar and salt.