Great many thks so can see what stage ur at , there are those 2 x modules behind the battery that can get wet or dirty / missing pins
Fingers crossed will be something daft
Great many thks so can see what stage ur at , there are those 2 x modules behind the battery that can get wet or dirty / missing pins
Fingers crossed will be something daft
Is that ok, that’s why I thought it would help so between the wiring diagram and those u can at least check for continuity
Glad that’s useful , at least then u can get a stage further
Happy days and always nice being able to help
Also found these for u , not 100% if it’s the later RRS , but hoping it will help u identify the connector numbers along with cross reference to the list
Should be able to zoom in , hope it helps u further, is LHD as well
Ps, @Datatek , ur like this , not a lot, lol, same amount of wiring in mine
Should be able to zoom in , hope it helps u further, is LHD as well
Ps, @Datatek , ur like this , not a lot, lol, same amount of wiring in mine
reverendalc
Member
Thank you all. This is my first rangie, and the newest LR I’ve ever owned... it’s an ugly POS, but I’m excited to get it working.
All of your help is much appreciated, I’m on several other forums including the nanocom forum and the general consensus to take it to the dealer. I’d rather part it out.
Seriously, thank you.
All of your help is much appreciated, I’m on several other forums including the nanocom forum and the general consensus to take it to the dealer. I’d rather part it out.
Seriously, thank you.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
More
More wiring in there than I had in my 12,000 square foot factory for manufacturing and testing computers
Ur very welcome , always a pleasure helping a fellow landy owner
Plse let us know how u get on , understand where ur coming from, I’ve spent the last 3 x years fixing my D3 and is starting to come together , got to put the headlights back as I’ve just replaced the aircon condensor
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More wiring in there than I had in my 12,000 square foot factory for manufacturing and testing computers
Lol, plus to think I’ve just got the base model , didn’t want all the extra toys , think there’s 26 x ecus in mine where the HSE has over 30
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I have always liked the look of the D3/D4 but I would never have one unless I could afford to strip it of all the electronics and start again.
Must admit I was pleasantly surprised of how nice it drives , definitely my favourite so far
Another reason I got the base model , also cheaper on ins not having all the extra toys
That’s would be an interesting project if the electrics were able to be stripped right back , also see a few replace the suspension with coils , aaaarrrrgggghhhh
reverendalc
Member
quick update:
battery voltage while "resting" is 12.56V
voltage at battery terminals while idle, systems off is 14.31V
voltage at battery terminals while idle, with all systems on is 12.65V
The tranny box has a mite of corrosion but it certainly doesn’t look worstcase scenario corroded.
The computer behind, sockets and plugs spotless
The EAS computer is perfect and clean, checked all connectors. There’s no sign of where the water came from in the loom channel. Maybe it was a novice detailer who flooded during a shampoo.
but there’s definitely been at least 1.5cm standing water at one point 
And it looks like this at the rear door too
battery voltage while "resting" is 12.56V
voltage at battery terminals while idle, systems off is 14.31V
voltage at battery terminals while idle, with all systems on is 12.65V
The tranny box has a mite of corrosion but it certainly doesn’t look worstcase scenario corroded.
The computer behind, sockets and plugs spotless
The EAS computer is perfect and clean, checked all connectors. There’s no sign of where the water came from in the loom channel. Maybe it was a novice detailer who flooded during a shampoo.
but there’s definitely been at least 1.5cm standing water at one point And it looks like this at the rear door tooAttachments
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brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
reverendalc
Member
i'll have to get another set of hands to man the accelerator while i test again... but my experience is that low-mid 14V is normal at idle, and my 12.65V was at idle with stereo, headlights, AC, and all electrical systems full blast.
reverendalc
Member
Voltmeter at battery terminals while running (without every last bell&whistle going) is a steady 14.3 at 2,000, 3,000, and 5,000 RPM
I’ll double check the figures as u might have a different output on urs , apologises but above u say it’s running at 14.3 Vdc with nothing on then drops to 12.56vdc when u switch everything on
So it’s
battery voltage while "resting" is 12.56V
voltage at battery terminals while idle, systems off is 14.31V
voltage at battery terminals while idle, with all systems on is 12.65V
Have u got jump leads by the way plse, use ur multimeter and find a good earth on the engine please, should be a lifting bracket which is normally good
Put one end of the jump lead to the earth point on the engine and other end to the neg battery post pls , start the engine then see if ur diagnostic will communicate
Just want to rule out a bad earth
Many thks and will come back to u on what the voltages should be being a petrol
reverendalc
Member
to answer your questions:
yes, battery connected to vehicle but all doors closed and engine off: 12.whatever I said VDC
truck running at idle, maybe the stereo was on: 14.whatever I said VDC
truck idling with hella stuff turned on: 12.65VDC, truck at various RPMs with only radio on ~14.3VDC
new battery is AGM, 900CCA 1000CA, 160 reserve and 95ah rating. it was the highest priced best reviewed replacement battery out of three local dealers, coming in at $220USD. the cheap ones were $140-160USD. the only better option was a gel-cell but those were special order and I hate waiting. I should've not returned my other battery as a core, and installed it in the vacant space across the engine well.
I have used a jumper lead to connect batt ground terminal directly to chassis, but the nanocom still cannot query the valves. I went back through the suspension with the foxwell nt510, and I was able to read live data from the EAS ECU, and i'm not sure what the parameters are, but all valves read 0% open and 0.0V. using the foxwell live data, I was able to confirm that all air susp. switches are operating normally, and there isn't anything shorted on/off or sticking. I wouldn't mind popping that panel off to confirm, but I suppose i'll have to google "how to get it off" because it doesn't want to pop off like I want it to.
oddly, after I keyed on the ignition with the jumper cable creating the redundant ground, the vehicle powered up in emergency mode.. dammit. there's no rhyme or reason to why/when this happens. last night I disassembled the gauge cluster and resoldered the main harness connector as I had read somebody had success with that. earlier today went through both LH and RH loom channels under the door sill and replaced (with solder) all of the splices that were crimped. there were three black wires spliced on the RH side which were corroded black over 10cm back from the splice, under the insulation. I thought I had maybe fixed the emergency mode issue as it hadn't happened all day until now...
sonofabitch. also went back and retested again, battery at rest reading 12.8 VDC
yes, battery connected to vehicle but all doors closed and engine off: 12.whatever I said VDC
truck running at idle, maybe the stereo was on: 14.whatever I said VDC
truck idling with hella stuff turned on: 12.65VDC, truck at various RPMs with only radio on ~14.3VDC
new battery is AGM, 900CCA 1000CA, 160 reserve and 95ah rating. it was the highest priced best reviewed replacement battery out of three local dealers, coming in at $220USD. the cheap ones were $140-160USD. the only better option was a gel-cell but those were special order and I hate waiting. I should've not returned my other battery as a core, and installed it in the vacant space across the engine well.
I have used a jumper lead to connect batt ground terminal directly to chassis, but the nanocom still cannot query the valves. I went back through the suspension with the foxwell nt510, and I was able to read live data from the EAS ECU, and i'm not sure what the parameters are, but all valves read 0% open and 0.0V. using the foxwell live data, I was able to confirm that all air susp. switches are operating normally, and there isn't anything shorted on/off or sticking. I wouldn't mind popping that panel off to confirm, but I suppose i'll have to google "how to get it off" because it doesn't want to pop off like I want it to.
oddly, after I keyed on the ignition with the jumper cable creating the redundant ground, the vehicle powered up in emergency mode.. dammit. there's no rhyme or reason to why/when this happens. last night I disassembled the gauge cluster and resoldered the main harness connector as I had read somebody had success with that. earlier today went through both LH and RH loom channels under the door sill and replaced (with solder) all of the splices that were crimped. there were three black wires spliced on the RH side which were corroded black over 10cm back from the splice, under the insulation. I thought I had maybe fixed the emergency mode issue as it hadn't happened all day until now...
sonofabitch. also went back and retested again, battery at rest reading 12.8 VDC
Many thks , hope ur not tearing ur hair out ,lol
I’ve got to double check what ur alternator is and what the max output is, reason being AGM batteries should not be charged over 14.8Vdc
On mine is fitted a denso 150amp alternator which will output upto 15.6Vdc , so need to double check of what ur max output is
I never jump to conclusions with ensuring my facts are 100% first , so think the first call of action is ruling the battery out and what the max Vdc output is
Also see if u can look of what make ur alternator is please , may be able to see the amp output as well
When u press the up lever on ur suspension the % should change to 100% and get some voltage back
Assume you’ve gone through every fuse as well , sorry to ask, lol
Many thks
Ps, wonder if it’s worth posting on the RRS forum, can at least cover all bases then
reverendalc
Member
this is what my batt+ terminal looks like.
Thks, reason I ask is some systems u have to tell it that you’ve fitted a new battery , mine hasn’t got a battery monitoring sensor , know that’s not much help
Think we’ve Got to rule out this AGM battery first
reverendalc
Member
i didn't take a close look at the battery that i yanked, but it tested out with the same specs that the new one does... i've only had the truck for a few weeks, but the battery was dated 09/2016 so it was around three years old and i decided to swap it just in case. after peering way down the side of the engine, it appears that the alternator has been replaced. the best i could do is stick my cellphone down there and pop a few pics:
it appears to be a reman alternator: Duralast Remanufactured Alternator
both of the cable stays that keep the alternator cable attached to the frame-rail are dislodged, and the alternator looks pretty fresh... not sure how old it is.
as soon as i press the suspension-up button, i get the chime and the suspension fault. as i mentioned before, i seem to be able to increase the gallery pressure if i continually clear the code and the pump occasionally runs for a second or two.
after clearing all codes and rereading, (before emergency mode came back), i was only getting one code from an entire system scan. it was not the reservoir valve code, but the gallery pressure not decreasing during vent code.
i haven't got much hair left to pull out!
it appears to be a reman alternator: Duralast Remanufactured Alternator
both of the cable stays that keep the alternator cable attached to the frame-rail are dislodged, and the alternator looks pretty fresh... not sure how old it is.
as soon as i press the suspension-up button, i get the chime and the suspension fault. as i mentioned before, i seem to be able to increase the gallery pressure if i continually clear the code and the pump occasionally runs for a second or two.
after clearing all codes and rereading, (before emergency mode came back), i was only getting one code from an entire system scan. it was not the reservoir valve code, but the gallery pressure not decreasing during vent code.
i haven't got much hair left to pull out!
