Bennehboy said:
Ooh Sykes Pickavant, posh bugger ;)

I'll see how I get on and give you a shout, Donny's a bit closer than Louth :D
Click to expand...

'tis a bit posh for me :p Bought it when I did the lt77.
And yes just a bit closer, I went to the very mans place the other day and took about an hour and half.
The offers their and you know where I am if it's needed anyway.
 
This gearbox is having a laugh...

Bought another puller, still cheapo but with stronger legs, this is what happened before one of the legs finally gave way (used a shed load of MAPP on the collar too):
IMG_20141223_121225.jpg


Crackers :/
 
Where there's a will there's a way, pried the front case off whilst tapping the output shaft bearing outer race in with a suitable drift.

Going to cut the end off the shaft off with a slitting disk on the grinder, job jobbed.

IMG_20141223_131645.jpg


All the gearsets and layshaft will still be salvageable, seem to have the makings of a fine collection! :D
 
phil540uk said:
Sorry to hear it's being a pain :(

If you only want the case from it, could you just cut it off?
Click to expand...

Ha, it's hardly your fault buddy :)

Will get there in the end.... just keep telling myself that the V8 5th gear cruise will be worth the effort.
 
Dremel to the rescue...

IMG_20141223_134530.jpg


Getting the 5th & reverse of the main and layshafts is a doddle after that:

IMG_20141223_140219.jpg


The collar that sits under the mainshaft reverse gear was close to being friction welded to the shaft, had to heat it up to get it off - so shaft is probably scrap anyway :D
 
Stripped it down completely ready for painting...

Gears & bearings are all in great shape - kept all the shims for when I reassemble with the new innards:
IMG_20141224_164954.jpg


The centre plate (that I'm so good at breaking!) - reverse idler NOT being removed!
IMG_20141224_165009.jpg


It's no wonder Phil had crunching gears, all the synchros are well and truly goosed:
IMG_20141224_165318.jpg


4th gear:
IMG_20141224_165540.jpg


Ready to chuck in my dissasembled gearbox pile:
IMG_20141224_171608.jpg


Bit of wire brushing then these can get painted up:
IMG_20141224_171616.jpg
 
I'm so gonna need help when I come to taking mine/yours apart!

In fact it'll be more like

Hellllllllllllpppppp!
 
Cleaned up the main case, and decided to test fit the shafts to check bearing preload.

IMG_20141229_140539.jpg


I think the layshaft seems OK, there's drag (maybe slightly too much?) with the same shim from the donor case, see video here -> R380 layshaft preload - YouTube

Mainshaft doesnt have enough preload, this is with the thickest shim, 2.3mm (other 2 shims I have are 2.1mm) -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXJkYEOykcQ?list=UUXNbwoJBaP-xZGcQF4L0Pew

Hoping JamesMartin will know the answer about whether I can get a thicker shim - I suppose I need a thinner spacer for the other side of the bearing too?

EDIT...

Just fired up Microcat and there seem to be a shed load of spacer sizes available:

FTC3761 - 2.290/2.265mm (dunno why there are 2 thicknesses listed, is this the tolerance?), this is probably the thicker one I have but I don't trust the chinese knock off caliper I have

The shims go up in 0.05mm steps from there all the way to 2.940mm

At 10 quid per shim I don't want to 'just take a punt'!
 
Last edited:
OK so here's some screenshot from microcat, first is the shim selections around and above the thickness of the one I have:

mainshaft_shim.jpg



And these are the corresponding shims for the 5th/reverse side of the bearing, so whichever one I get above I'll probably need to thin down the 5th/rev side by the same difference:

4-5-shim.jpg


Any science behind choosing them?
 
you can measure shim size needed by building without a shim or a too small shim then measure endfloat with a dti , but from vids they dont look bad as long as m/s has no endfloat ,l/s isnt too heavily loaded shims come in 2 thou variants ,so 2 thou of l/s may be too loose if your changing baulk rings box has 4 ftc3584 and 2 ftc5018 (input shaft and 5th gear
 
jamesmartin said:
you can measure shim size needed by building without a shim or a too small shim then measure endfloat with a dti , but from vids they dont look bad as long as m/s has no endfloat ,l/s isnt too heavily loaded shims come in 2 thou variants ,so 2 thou of l/s may be too loose if your changing baulk rings box has 4 ftc3584 and 2 ftc5018 (input shaft and 5th gear
Click to expand...

Aye it's got all new baulk rings on. Can't believe I didn't think about using a DTI, doh!

I'll measure it up tomorrow, cheers.
 
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