Update:
Repaired PCV valve, 3 ignition coils
Feels like it was pointless
Issue still the same, white smoke intermittently from the exhaust
Something I have noticed, the white smoke is less when run on petrol, seems to be on LPG when it happens
Car is still for sale as spares and repairs
 
Feels like it was pointless
Issue still the same, white smoke intermittently from the exhaust

Has this amazingly hopeless mechanic done the basic checks, like a bloody compression check?, as suggested in post 37.
If he hasn't, he's no mechanic, he's just another dumb fitter.:mad:
 
Update:
Changed one more ignition coil, engine stopped misfiring, no check engine light, car drove great.
Few days later problem returned.
White smoke from exhaust, misfire, check engine light, there is no coolant or oil leak. They did a compression test and no issues. Everything pointed to ignition coil misfire.
At a loss, any advice appreciated.
 
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White smoke from a spark engine can only be coolant, unless it's just condensation on a cold day etc but I'm hoping you'll know the difference.
If your vapouriser is filling with coolant through a leaking seal then it'll make its way to the combustion chambers when you switch to lpg and could cause a misfire + white smoke
 
White smoke from a spark engine can only be coolant, unless it's just condensation on a cold day etc but I'm hoping you'll know the difference.
If your vapouriser is filling with coolant through a leaking seal then it'll make its way to the combustion chambers when you switch to lpg and could cause a misfire + white smoke

thanks so get the mechanic to check for a leaking seal? Are we saying it’s a head gasket issue again? Worth getting that sealant?
 
thanks so get the mechanic to check for a leaking seal? Are we saying it’s a head gasket issue again? Worth getting that sealant?
No, a leaking seal in the vapouriser/reducer. Disconnect and bypass the coolant feed, check/clean the plugs then switch the system to petrol only.
Run on petrol and get up to temperature and see how you get on. The white smoke should clear up and the misfire go away eventually if it's a leaking vapouriser.
 
No, a leaking seal in the vapouriser/reducer. Disconnect and bypass the coolant feed, check/clean the plugs then switch the system to petrol only.
Run on petrol and get up to temperature and see how you get on. The white smoke should clear up and the misfire go away eventually if it's a leaking vapouriser.

thanks for this will ask the mechanic to give it a go on Monday
 
Are we saying it’s a head gasket issue again?

In my experience, the coolant is blown out the pressure cap, long before coolant can get into the cylinder when the engine is running
The pressure in the cylinder is many times that of the cooling system, and pressure always escapes high to low, not low to high.
If coolant is being lost, and its not blowing the coolant through the pressure cap, then the coolant is being lost on the intake side, so anything before the engine which has has a coolant supply.
 
One thing is, coolant level was okay today, probably at minimum, and the engine is not overheating when driven. But misfiring is awful and that white smoke, would make James Bond proud (smoke bomb)
 
In my experience, the coolant is blown out the pressure cap, long before coolant can get into the cylinder when the engine is running
The pressure in the cylinder is many times that of the cooling system, and pressure always escapes high to low, not low to high.
If coolant is being lost, and its not blowing the coolant through the pressure cap, then the coolant is being lost on the intake side, so anything before the engine which has has a coolant supply.
To start with, yes, with a small leak, gas will get into the coolant. After a while, the pressure gets high enough to blow coolant back into the cylinder on the exhaust and inlet strokes when the cylinder pressure is relatively low
 
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I can't see how that ever works, exhaust gases will always blow it out, surely?

would this work for a leaking seal in the vapouriser/reducer?

mechanics have said it’s not the head gasket and have been advised by people on this forum not to use steel seal due to the adverse affects the liquid can have on other parts of the vehicle.
 
I don't know if it would work in a vapouriser, but replacing the o rings and diaphragm is easy and it probably needs a service anyways (if the last service was so long ago it's stated to leak)
I had issues from the previous owner using it, one of the small pipes was bunged up
 
I don't know if it would work in a vapouriser, but replacing the o rings and diaphragm is easy and it probably needs a service anyways (if the last service was so long ago it's stated to leak)
I had issues from the previous owner using it, one of the small pipes was bunged up

it was serviced in March, will see.
 
no idea how to do this but seems like a good idea. Have someone coming to view it on Tuesday as spares and repairs. If I can do this prior would be ideal.
Home-made pipe clamps = 4x pieces of 1/4"ply and 2 mole grips. (30x15mm)

You're looking to deprive the vaporiser of coolant flow... also do the return to ensure no back-flow from system.

Do you realise how much insurance value you are sitting on if you happen to have a faulty Xenon light ballast?
 
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