TD5power

TD5power

Certified Nutter
feel free to point me in the right direction or shoot me down here BUT

if I fit a 2 inch lift to my 110 now my dad says it will ruin my handling and it will be all over the shop BUT

if it fit 3 degree cranked trailing and radius arms along with wide angle props will it still handle the same? I really would like a lift

the reason for asking is that he had a 2 inch lift on his 90 and it was nerve racking to drive
 
Cranked arms will help by correcting castor angle but you are still raising the Centre of Gravity (CofG) which will make things a bit more unstable
 
When I bought my disco 200tdi it was in standard guise and drove a treat. One 2" lift kit and bigger tyres later and it handles like a bag of s*** :D Havent done trailing arms though so couldn't say if it would make a difference.
 
My 110 has a 2" lift and all the cranked arms and things and with over 200bhp, like Ste... I drive it nearly as quick as I drive my M3 on a backroad :p

Have genuinely surprised a good number of people at how well it handles too and it doesn't even have anti-roll bars fitted.

I have very low offset 15x10 rims alright but with 33x12.5 muds, even the wider track still shouldn't make such a huge difference given the tyres that are under it.


I reckon a 90 would handle a lot worse though with a lift due to the shorter wheelbase. A mate just put standard HD springs on his 90 with 33s and his dad's 110 with a 2" lift and similar wheels handles much better.

I've been in a lowered 90 truckcab on 18"s with Bilstein and Eibach suspension and it handled literally like a go-kart!
 
My 90 has a two inch lift with all the proper gubbins to do it properly. It handles pretty much as it did before to be honest. Bit roly, bit bumpy, still leaks...nothing like an M3.
 
put decent shocks on and you wont have a problem,i had deCarbon shocks on and is was good i now have OME +5 shocks and you can literally throw it round corners.
 
Must get new shocks for mine soon as the crap britpart ones are fooked. Trying to decide what's the best option for a 2" lift but on something that has a good bit of weight, does lots of towing and want it to handle pretty well but still have reasonable flex off-road. I assume the OME are the best to go for?

steveyorks said:
My 90 has a two inch lift with all the proper gubbins to do it properly. It handles pretty much as it did before to be honest. Bit roly, bit bumpy, still leaks...nothing like an M3.
Click to expand...

Yea, my M3 isn't roly, doesn' leak but is is abit bumpy on occasion if not on the right road :D

On alot of backroads around here though, I'd make better progress with the Defender :eek:
 
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Its mostly about the rebound in your shocks, get that right and the rest is just tweaking. Taking your anti roll bars off will lose you all the stiffness when cornering at anything over 15mph.

Old man emu are the best solution without going for remote reservoir air shocks or coil overs.

Your castor correct arms won't affect your steering there just there to correct the input angle of the differential after you lift it, their to prevent prop bind.
 
GINGE said:
Its mostly about the rebound in your shocks, get that right and the rest is just tweaking. Taking your anti roll bars off will lose you all the stiffness when cornering at anything over 15mph.

Old man emu are the best solution without going for remote reservoir air shocks or coil overs.

Your castor correct arms won't affect your steering there just there to correct the input angle of the differential after you lift it, their to prevent prop bind.
Click to expand...

not entirely ,as you lift chassis away from axle ,axle rotates slightly depending on lift reducing castor angle,castor angle is what gives you self centering steering ,in putting castor back by angling axle you actually make prop angle worse
 
jamesmartin said:
not entirely ,as you lift chassis away from axle ,axle rotates slightly depending on lift reducing castor angle,castor angle is what gives you self centering steering ,in putting castor back by angling axle you actually make prop angle worse
Click to expand...

This is the long standing debate isn't it? It seems a lot of lifts turn different results.

When i did my lift we measured the increase rotation forward of the axle and it was mm's. I had no need to fit a DC prop, other do.
 
GINGE said:
This is the long standing debate isn't it? It seems a lot of lifts turn different results.

When i did my lift we measured the increase rotation forward of the axle and it was mm's. I had no need to fit a DC prop, other do.
Click to expand...

no its fact,axle travels through an arc,std caster is 3 degrees not a great deal but does depend on amount lifted to effect it has
 
jamesmartin said:
no its fact,axle travels through an arc,std caster is 3 degrees not a great deal but does depend on amount lifted to effect it has
Click to expand...

Ok, can you explain the last statement better then as it reads to me that when you re-adjust the castor by fitting castor correct arms that it makes it worse???

Obviously that would negate the use of a castor correct arm then?

my understanding(from doing a lot of reading on the subject) is that fitting a lift rolls the axle forwards making the diff input no longer parallel to the transfer box output. The castor correct arms restore that angle?

I know that some lift kits don't get prop bind due to the angle change and others do, obviously thats down to the different tolerances in manufacturing.

jamesmartin said:
not entirely ,as you lift chassis away from axle ,axle rotates slightly depending on lift reducing castor angle,castor angle is what gives you self centering steering ,in putting castor back by angling axle you actually make prop angle worse
Click to expand...
 
front flanges arent parallel to start with hence the phasing of front prop if you did rotate axle enough to get it parallel it would be too far out of line for a prop caster correction is to put caster angle back after its reduced from lift
 
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