front flanges arent parallel to start with hence the phasing of front prop if you did rotate axle enough to get it parallel it would be too far out of line for a prop caster correction is to put caster angle back after its reduced from lift

Ok, i did not know they were not parallel.

Im still unsure how actor correct arms will affect his steering apart from pulling the axle slightly over due to the pan hard rod. Adjustable was needed on mine to stop vehicle crabbing.
 
caster correction arms will reintroduce the caster angle (3 degree),lost when lifting ie rotating axle so that diff flange point more up,caster correction arms lower diff flange in effect,caster angle gives you self centering steering ,panhard rod length is a separate effect of lifting chassis away from axle ,the higher the lift the longer panhard needs to be to keep axle central ,no connection with caster angle though
 
caster correction arms will reintroduce the caster angle (3 degree),lost when lifting ie rotating axle so that diff flange point more up,caster correction arms lower diff flange in effect,caster angle gives you self centering steering ,panhard rod length is a separate effect of lifting chassis away from axle ,the higher the lift the longer panhard needs to be to keep axle central ,no connection with caster angle though

Yes and yes.

Thats what i said yesterday, or tried to say.
 
Yep, its easy to see how castor angle is reduced when front end is lifted. The length of the shock and spring height is increased. The axle is then pushed down and due to it being mounted to the chassis at the radius arms, it pivot about this point therefore rotating the axle itself the more it's dropped away from the body.

Not much but a couple of degrees in castor change can make very noticable differences in road manners, especially in turn in, stability under braking and self-centering. On BMW E30s and E36s for example the rear wishbone bush can be changed from a concentric bush to an eccentric bush. This shifts the rear of the wishbone outwards and therefore the front arm from the subframe to the hub is pushed forwards. Only is moved forward maybe an inch or so but the difference is instantly noticeable when driving it.



The castor correction arms as well as the adjustable pan-hard made a big difference to the handling of my 110. It was a little twitchy before and wandered abit under braking.


GINGE is right about castor correction arms only fixing your steering castor issues when lifted. They pull the pinion output flange back down again. This will make your prop bind quicker with the extra travel and whatever lift you have to start with when off-roading.

On the road, it has it's pros and cons.

By tilting the prop back level (or in the case of the 110s or Discoverys etc, to the angle it sits originally), it'll be back in it's correct phasing. This will reduce vibration etc.

But on the other hand, with the lift.. the prop will be rotating at a more acute angle so will be constantly putting more pressure on the UJs.

By having the lift without the correction arms, the prop will run at less of an angle so possibly less stress on UJs in that aspect but it's phasing will be out so it's possibly it'll vibrate unless it's removed and front and rear halfs put together in a different spline to be phased right for the new pinion angle.



Sorry if that's all abit confusing... it sounds right in my head but hard to describe it without a model or diagrams :eek:
 
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lowering the diffflange by correcting creates a greater angle prop has to deal with

I don't doubt your superior knowledge but I've never heard of it before, or rather not been informed.

Never the less, it sounds as if its minimal effect on the steering fitting castor correct arms?
 
Its mostly about the rebound in your shocks, get that right and the rest is just tweaking. Taking your anti roll bars off will lose you all the stiffness when cornering at anything over 15mph.

Old man emu are the best solution without going for remote reservoir air shocks or coil overs.

Your castor correct arms won't affect your steering there just there to correct the input angle of the differential after you lift it, their to prevent prop bind.


this bit ,caster is for steering ,diff flange isnt parallel and if you make it so a std prop couldnt cope
 
I don't doubt your superior knowledge but I've never heard of it before, or rather not been informed.

Never the less, it sounds as if its minimal effect on the steering fitting castor correct arms?

if you remove the 3 degrees you have no self centering youd have to steer back from cornering ,if you ever driven a tractor with full power steering youd know what thats like
 
if you remove the 3 degrees you have no self centering youd have to steer back from cornering ,if you ever driven a tractor with full power steering youd know what thats like

Even most modern tractors have castor too so they even self center to an extent too.
 
Even most modern tractors have castor too so they even self center to an extent too.

of course theyve allways had caster ,often exaggerated along with camber on 2wd, but the full power steering negates the caster and makes self centering greatly reduced at least with any ive driven
 
so in idiots terms

will fitting the castor correction arms with a 2 inch lift better my handling?
what's the best way to achieve normal handling with a 2 inch lift?
 
did the defender come with great handling in the first place? lol the speed you drive in a defender you wont notice, and if your putting new suspension on might be an improvment on the old spring and shocks?
 
did the defender come with great handling in the first place? lol the speed you drive in a defender you wont notice, and if your putting new suspension on might be an improvment on the old spring and shocks?

obviously never like car ,but if maintained properly should handle quite well
 
will a double cardon from a disco 2 td5 fit directly to a standard defender 200tdi with lt77 g/box does anyone know?
 

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