Turboman said:
As Dippy says, boost hose or a failed turbo, blocked air hose, quite a few things could cause that. I would be 99.9% sure that isn't an injector pump failure though.
Click to expand...
ok, I tried to look at the turbo as at the beginning a few people (including you I think) did say that , then I got too focus on the head gasket because of the mechanic that I've seen that ASSURED me that's what it was... anyway the hose between the turbo and the inlet manifold ( i haven't got an intercooler, bought one but will fit when this is sorted ) is a bit oily but not dripping at all

And the boost , I am not even sure what that is yet haha
 
Maxlondon said:
ok, I tried to look at the turbo as at the beginning a few people (including you I think) did say that , then I got too focus on the head gasket because of the mechanic that I've seen that ASSURED me that's what it was... anyway the hose between the turbo and the inlet manifold ( i haven't got an intercooler, bought one but will fit when this is sorted ) is a bit oily but not dripping at all

And the boost , I am not even sure what that is yet haha
Click to expand...

The trouble is, you can look at things, but without experience you cant really tell if there is a problem.
That is why I think it would be helpful if someone with many years experience looked at your vehicle.

Running no intercooler on an engine that is designed to have one may seriously affect performance on its own. Try and put it to a standard Tdi setup as soon as you can, that will be a good starting point. Vehicles are designed in a certain way, to have specific components that work together. Home made plumbing is not as good.
 
Turboman said:
The trouble is, you can look at things, but without experience you cant really tell if there is a problem.
That is why I think it would be helpful if someone with many years experience looked at your vehicle.

Running no intercooler on an engine that is designed to have one may seriously affect performance on its own. Try and put it to a standard Tdi setup as soon as you can, that will be a good starting point. Vehicles are designed in a certain way, to have specific components that work together. Home made plumbing is not as good.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's what I got an original intercooler, but the hose kit I got I think is wrong but anyway , as soon as the problem is sorted I will do my best to get everything else sorted, I've got couple things to do, like fitting the good air filter housing and things like that ( my one is wrong and holding with silicone )

And yes, definitely, I do my best but I can't be a certified landy owner in a week or 2 !
 
Maxlondon said:
Yes, that's what I got an original intercooler, but the hose kit I got I think is wrong but anyway , as soon as the problem is sorted I will do my best to get everything else sorted, I've got couple things to do, like fitting the good air filter housing and things like that ( my one is wrong and holding with silicone )

And yes, definitely, I do my best but I can't be a certified landy owner in a week or 2 !
Click to expand...

That is the way to go. fix the problems one at a time, sooner or later you will get there.

I have been trying for 35 years, only thing I am likely to be certified as is insane! :D
 
Maxlondon said:
Yes, that's what I got an original intercooler, but the hose kit I got I think is wrong but anyway , as soon as the problem is sorted I will do my best to get everything else sorted, I've got couple things to do, like fitting the good air filter housing and things like that ( my one is wrong and holding with silicone )

And yes, definitely, I do my best but I can't be a certified landy owner in a week or 2 !
Click to expand...

You also said you'd had the head skimmed etc, when you re-fitted it, did you check the valve clearances ? Have you since re-checked them ?
 
Hi everyone, I just checked online, and apparently I can check and adjust the FIP timing simply by removing the 3 bolts cover plate at the front of the cam belt cover, without having to strip everything out.
Is that something that could lead to my problem ? and is it really possible ?
turned out I won't have the compression tester today... still looking for one
 
Maxlondon said:
Hi everyone, I just checked online, and apparently I can check and adjust the FIP timing simply by removing the 3 bolts cover plate at the front of the cam belt cover, without having to strip everything out.
Is that something that could lead to my problem ? and is it really possible ?
turned out I won't have the compression tester today... still looking for one
Click to expand...

I dont see how? Nothing inside that cover but a pulley, and you really dont want to undo the bolts on that.
To check the timing you need to set up the engine at TDC, and see if you can get the timing pins in.

Have you thought about trying to find a local garge and get them to do a comp test. Shouldnt take more than an hour, much cheaper than buying your own tester, even if you dont break it! :D
 
Turboman said:
I dont see how? Nothing inside that cover but a pulley, and you really dont want to undo the bolts on that.
To check the timing you need to set up the engine at TDC, and see if you can get the timing pins in.

Have you thought about trying to find a local garge and get them to do a comp test. Shouldnt take more than an hour, much cheaper than buying your own tester, even if you dont break it! :D
Click to expand...

Haha , yes I might do that, yes, just by sticking the timing pin and undo that cover,
here is the link , tell me what you think:



Because I was talking with Dippypud and she's got a point , I ordered all the parts but don't have everything yet , so might as well wait for everything and change it completely when I remove the cover but meanwhile thought about checking that.
I have got a full day off which is pretty rare so I would like to run as many tests as possible
 
Maxlondon said:
Haha , yes I might do that, yes, just by sticking the timing pin and undo that cover,
here is the link , tell me what you think:



Because I was talking with Dippypud and she's got a point , I ordered all the parts but don't have everything yet , so might as well wait for everything and change it completely when I remove the cover but meanwhile thought about checking that.
I have got a full day off which is pretty rare so I would like to run as many tests as possible
Click to expand...


That looks ok, but there is a lot more to doing that than just removing the circular pulley cover.
Unless the belt has slipped, or someone has fiddled with it, there is no reason you engine timing will be out. Most diesels will run the whole belt change interval with no need to adjust timing.
 
wouldn't that be a possibility ? somehow when I change the starter motor a heard a few loud 'bangs" before it actually start ( before the smoking problem the car didn't start and I changed the starter motor and that is when all this smoke started )
BY THE WAY , talking about that , the main relay was plugged to the starter motor before, then when I refitted it looked like no one else was like that so I redirected it straight to the battery . I have got an immobiliser and a cut off switch as well. couldn't be this ?
 
Maxlondon said:
wouldn't that be a possibility ? somehow when I change the starter motor a heard a few loud 'bangs" before it actually start ( before the smoking problem the car didn't start and I changed the starter motor and that is when all this smoke started )
BY THE WAY , talking about that , the main relay was plugged to the starter motor before, then when I refitted it looked like no one else was like that so I redirected it straight to the battery . I have got an immobiliser and a cut off switch as well. couldn't be this ?
Click to expand...

It would be a possibility. But so could a lot of other things. As I said before, accurate diagnosis usually works better than trying to fix every problem that might occur.
When you change the belts, timing will be checked and reset anyway.
 
Turboman said:
It would be a possibility. But so could a lot of other things. As I said before, accurate diagnosis usually works better than trying to fix every problem that might occur.
When you change the belts, timing will be checked and reset anyway.
Click to expand...

I know but it could be a fairly quick check doable now ? I don't feel good spending the day doing nothing :D
 
One more thing, when I pump the lift puml manually , is there supose to have any resistance ? Because it feel really soft and nothing come out of the fuel filter bleed screw
 
Morning Max !
How many boxes do you have in your exhaust ??
The reason I ask is if you have water in there it's going to take a lot of getting out !
That is why you have to run it till it gets warm ! SOD the neighbours it's only water vapour with a bit of look !!:rolleyes:

Steve
 
Magicgrotto said:
Morning Max !
How many boxes do you have in your exhaust ??
The reason I ask is if you have water in there it's going to take a lot of getting out !
That is why you have to run it till it gets warm ! SOD the neighbours it's only water vapour with a bit of look !!:rolleyes:

Steve
Click to expand...
Hi Steve ,
What do you mean by boxes ?
Yes I'll try that today , will try to go around and fill up the tank at the same time
 
There are three elements to timing - the crank (the position of the pistons), the cam (which, in turn, opens and closes the valves) and the IP (which shoots in the fuel)

By removing that cover (which is easy) you get access to the IP timing.
The crank timing can be got at by removing the timing case cover, which is some amount of bother, but it can also (on an engine that runs) be taken from the groove in the fly wheel (at least it can on the 300)

You cant set an engine from scratch just using the flywheel, but on an engine that's close enough to run, you certainly can.

The procedure for this is to remove the ip cover, rotate the crank until your timing tool (drill) will fit in the hole on the IP, and then crawl under the motor with a torch, and look up at the flywheel through the wading plug on the bell housing.

If you do not see the groove 100% central to the wading plug hole, then the pump timing is out.
 
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