i thought it was rollers that were damaged,were did sticky valves come in thats self inflicted bad positioning of rods ,as above ,rotate rods and you can feel if seated also threads above nut on adjuster all been equal is a clue after
 
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jamesmartin said:
i thought it was rollers that were damaged,were did sticky valves come in thats self inflicted bad positioning of rods ,as above ,rotate rods and you can feel if seated also threads above nut on adjuster all been equal is a clue after
Click to expand...

how it happened waas the valves had been sticking in the open position now and again giving that clank sound when the piston ****ts the valves and was missfiring badly for the first few seconds on cold start

all i can think is if th valve is stuck open when the cam releases under the roller and follower creating slack then the piston twots the valve closing it again basically it looks like this action has caused the pushrods to chisel the followers to bits

or am i looking too deep into this :confused::confused:

but it could also be my fault fer them not being seated properly aswell :rolleyes::rolleyes:

guess ill never really know ;):(
 
ive rarely if ever seen sticky valves ,guides wear and they get looser,plus youd have marls in piston tops,guides can get notchy and cause similar as follower snags you can test by feeling each rocker at idle,not a critism jc we all miss bits from time to time
 
jamesmartin said:
ive rarely if ever seen sticky valves ,guides wear and they get looser,plus youd have marls in piston tops,guides can get notchy and cause similar as follower snags you can test by feeling each rocker at idle,not a critism jc we all miss bits from time to time
Click to expand...

there were a couple of pistons with slight rings bashed into them and one that looked like a half crown mark and the others had worn like yer said and gone so slack in the valve guide it were like throwing a woodbine through the albert hall :D

on the other hand due to their hardness the old valve stems make pretty good lathe tooling steel :eek::cool:

any criticism is just a point in the right direction :D
 
typicaly ive pretty much ended up stripping the engine back down to a bare block to find the smashed little bits of follower and just about rebuilt the bugger again and im now to the point that it only needs bleeding up again and starting again ...........hopefully this time round itll be fine

this has all been going on between looking for work and doing little odd jobs round the estate one of wich is kind of a favour for a favour

a couple at the bottom of the estate asked me to have a look at sorting their dads greenhouse out as he asked them if they could get someone to remove the old cast iron boiler coal thing out of there coz hes too old to lift it himself

they came to me with concerns about his safety in the greenhouse as it was as they put it past its best ....................so with me knowing this chap fer a few years and in return for the boiler heater thingy weve got the deal going that i put the greenhouse right again for him so he can use it again without the danger of 400 little panes of glass coming down on his head

thing is all the matereals are already there as he has collected them to do the job himself at 87 yrs old ( hence why i was called in )

hopefully my mate kev will be available this weekend to give me a lift with the landy
 
aaaarrrrgggghhhhh!!!!!!still got blue smoke:mad::mad::mad::mad:

reet today we bled her up and got her running absolutely sweet as a nut but for the damn smoke and burning oil

up to now shes had

rebore
new pistons
new rings
new big end shells
new valves
new valve guides
new injectors
new cam followers
reconditioned fuel pump
new oil filters
new oil
new timing chain
new thermostat

jesus its practically a brand new engine fer fook sake

so why the hell is it burning oil like its going out of fashion :confused::confused:

has anyone got any clues or suggestions as to why how or what i do next as the only thing i can think of now is the head itself is cracked
 
johnny curt 1 said:
thats what im thinking .....has the head cracked between an oilway and combustion chamber letting it burn the oil :confused::confused:

is it worth scouring for a good 2nd hand edd :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I know where there was a couple of engines, not sure if derv or petrol though but might be worth a call if your heads cracked unless you can find and TIG it up :p ?
 
the only oil way goes up through front drivers side of head at an angle to feed front of rocker shaft pedestal,the fact youvegot new parts doesnt mean there good cross hatch is very important what was piston clearance ? ,cam timing has to be precise,injectors were from ?
 
jamesmartin said:
the only oil way goes up through front drivers side of head at an angle to feed front of rocker shaft pedestal,the fact youvegot new parts doesnt mean there good cross hatch is very important what was piston clearance ? ,cam timing has to be precise,injectors were from ?
Click to expand...

piston clearance gave 10.5 thou" at top stroke as per manual
injectors were from landranger in stockport and were a full recon set and matched
the oilways to feed the rocker shaft are clear and run fine but the cylinder below ( cylinder 1) is always the sootiest and oiliest each time ive took the head off
 
now this is a bit interesting if not a little on the weird side

ive stripped the front of the engine down again to acess the timing chain and sprockets knowing full well when i fitted the bugger 3 weeks ago i had it right with the DTI on the valves and on the flywheel markings absolutely perfect

now in an attempt to sort out the lift and the slop in the skew gear under the CAV pump ive stripped all that down forked out for and fitted a brand new bronze bush bearing following the green bible step by step now theres absolutely no up and down movement and no backlash in this gear / shaft and when out spins freeley and smoothley as it damn well should be with about 5 thou" clearance on the bush

now set the gear and bush back in place in the hole and set the retaining grub screw taking care to get the king spline on the shaft at 20 degrees towards retard from the shaft centre ( prezactly as shown in the bible )

and now comes the interesting bit

the timing tool i was lent to reset the pump timing mark needle plate is nowhere near where the mark is on the timing tool and the tool itself seems to be set a mile back from where it was last time and looks to be set severely on the retarded side meaning when i move the marker on the engine to where the tool marker is and set the fuel pump to that there wont be any travel left to retard the fuel pump if needed

to correct this is it gonna be a case of move the timing chain forward one tooth on the camshaft sprocket and recheck the whole thing again

or do i just remove the timing chain and skew gear and start again from the begining

the thing thats confusing me is how the hell has it or i managed this in the first place

has anyone got any clue whats going on with this ( unless the new chain has stretched in some way or other )
 
johnny curt 1 said:
piston clearance gave 10.5 thou" at top stroke as per manual
injectors were from landranger in stockport and were a full recon set and matched
the oilways to feed the rocker shaft are clear and run fine but the cylinder below ( cylinder 1) is always the sootiest and oiliest each time ive took the head off
Click to expand...
10 thou wider bore than bottom of piston skirt 90 degrees to gudgeon pin ,?
 
jamesmartin said:
10 thou wider bore than bottom of piston skirt 90 degrees to gudgeon pin ,?
Click to expand...

yeah exactly that bottom of piston at top of bore opposing the gudgeon pin and checked from underneith at 10mm intervals all the way down the bore with no discrepancies on all 4 pistons and bores ;)
 
youve set cam and crank at ep no1 using dti before and after peak and then measured middle of those 2 points to find exact ep ,then turned engine over to 13/14 degrees before tdc ,then fitted skew gear 20 degrees to front pump stud while holding gear against direction of rotation to remove back lash (the other side of stud to a petrol engine)
 
jamesmartin said:
youve set cam and crank at ep no1 using dti before and after peak and then measured middle of those 2 points to find exact ep ,then turned engine over to 13/14 degrees before tdc ,then fitted skew gear 20 degrees to front pump stud while holding gear against direction of rotation to remove back lash (the other side of stud to a petrol engine)
Click to expand...

thats whats confusing me ..........there aint any backlash at all now the new bush is in but the timing tool is set so far back its gonna leave no room to retard the fuel pump if i need to

for the timing tool and pump marking to be in its right place it looks like the flywheel will be more like 35 - 40 degrees past TDC pot 1 compression to be correct with the markings at the skew gear :confused:
 
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