first of all cheers for the pm owl ill be going down the caveman route as soon as ive got these nhs specials out of my system and settled these mad mood swings

if this is what PMT is like the women can friggin keep it :D:D:D

now between bouts cof crap weather i got me angry head on and thought fook it lets get the engine cleaned up as its gonna need a good steam clean thus getting wet anyway so i did this







then lowe and behold the man upstairs must have seen that i was just getting on with it and decided to give in and the weather just went kinda pleasant for a while so i thought now is me chance

made a double strong brew necked that while having a bit of a sit down and a cig while firing up the waste oil fired heater and warmed a few pints of paint up ready for the quickest drying paint session ive done yet

and got this far





still gotta get the sump and engine mounts painted and the pipework re fitted but its ngetting closer

the paint i finaly decided to use is something me great uncle got from the family boiuler works wich is used for the housings on industrial boilers and can withstand up to and around 1800 degrees c so lets see what it lasts like on this engine :D:D:D
 
crashbox said:
That engine is lookin' really sexy. Love the colour.
Click to expand...

i got given a litre tin of that stuff i was a bit dubious of using it at first as its quite runny anyway but used a 20% mix with fastflash thinners in a coffee jar and it only took half the jar to get that level of finish over grey zinc 182 primer
wich means ive got nearley 1-1/2 pints left :D:D:D
 
aaahhh i see jamesmartin is present just the man i wanted to see

ere james im pic 4 of this engine theres a casting stamp under the fannimold that just says D5 is this a reference to the block type and am i right in thinking it means

diesel - 5 bearing ???

or am i totaly wrong :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
hi ,if you look a fluted area above sump you will see its smooth ,whichg means its 3 bearing ,5 bearing would have a cast cross hatch in there,diesel and petrol blocks are the same ,id replace the 3 core plugs ,while its out,its coming on fast :)
 
jamesmartin said:
hi ,if you look a fluted area above sump you will see its smooth ,whichg means its 3 bearing ,5 bearing would have a cast cross hatch in there,diesel and petrol blocks are the same ,id replace the 3 core plugs ,while its out,its coming on fast :)
Click to expand...

funny thing is those 3 large core plugs only had minor surface rust on them and when tested with the ball pein hammer and 3/4" ball bearing trick they seem solid as fook not even a dent where the ball hit the core so im prepared to risk it with this one

before anyone asks how to do the test trick on core plugs first clean all rust off the inner surface as this is its weak spot where its flattest now put a large ball bearing in the plug close to the centre as possible and hold it in place with a bit of duct tape
mark the tape where the ball is then hit that spot with the hammer not mega hard but like your getting a start on a nail a good sharp **** :D:D

remove the tape and inspect the damage done if theres no mark or indentation in the core plug its a good un and is showing no signs of weakness
the weaker the plug is the bigger the dent from the bearing will be :cool::cool:

dont use anything other than a bearing 1/2" diametre or bigger as due to its shape it will only create a dent and not punch through the plug and end up in the cylinder block it wont ever punch through ;);)

i swear by this method and so did the 80 yr old engineer that tought me to do it :eek::eek:
 
oi oi matcal1999 i got a way you can get the bolts out of yer front bumper

how i got mine out was cut the bolt head off the top and punch the bolt down as far as it would go

then get a bar or screwdriver down the hole and lever the bolt back while wiggling the bumper eventualy it bent the bolts so far back into the chassis leg i could get the bottoms with the mole grips and pull them forwards out the bottom of the spring hanger :D:D:D
 
johnny curt 1 said:
oi oi matcal1999 i got a way you can get the bolts out of yer front bumper

how i got mine out was cut the bolt head off the top and punch the bolt down as far as it would go

then get a bar or screwdriver down the hole and lever the bolt back while wiggling the bumper eventualy it bent the bolts so far back into the chassis leg i could get the bottoms with the mole grips and pull them forwards out the bottom of the spring hanger :D:D:D
Click to expand...

I might have a look tomorrow Im still rebuilding the back end i haven't spent any time on it for 2 weeks now apart from a few hours today. Im hoping to get a full day in tomorrow so ill be posting a few pics.
 
johnny ive got to say what a cracking build! wish i had the time and skill to do the same
 
and the weather has been sort of playing ball today so the engine went in with no trouble at all not even a dot of grease or **** on me hands neither

its great working on something clean











 
Liking those colours - I reckon that red engine will now give you some extra neddies :D

Might be the camera angles but is the steering bar slightly bent? Not wanting to be negative but safety first and all that ;)
 
Hi Johnny, if you get stuck with the master cylinder, I've got a genuine one you can have. I bought it when my (new!!) ****part one ****ed all over my foot. However, the crappy one seems to have honed itself and I can't be bothered swapping it...You've earned it!

D
 
Land Raver said:
Liking those colours - I reckon that red engine will now give you some extra neddies :D

Might be the camera angles but is the steering bar slightly bent? Not wanting to be negative but safety first and all that ;)
Click to expand...

actually it is slightly bent but i just thought thats the way its supposed to be as the wheels are alligned near perfect ( 1 degree toe in if anything ) and with working on discoverys wich have a sort of crook shape in them hmmmm

are they supposed to be dead straight if so ill sort it out tomorrow safety first an all that :):)
 
crashbox said:
I can hear that engine running...
Click to expand...

that engine runs like clockwork when i finally got the starter motor and battery sorted out sweet as a nut apart from plenny of smoke but that was due to the pump timing being slightly retarded and a load of air in the fuel system not to mention it was running on heating oil

the horrible truth is when i stripped the fuel hoses and injectors out to do that paint job the pump was loose just turned in me hand so if it ran pretty well like that its gotta be a lot better when its all back together properly :D:D:D

i honestly thought these old 10j derv tratter engines were supposed to be rattly deaffening ear drum bleeders but this one seemed pretty quiet and smoothe before i did all this :smokin::smokin::smokin:
 
johnny curt 1 said:
actually it is slightly bent but i just thought thats the way its supposed to be as the wheels are alligned near perfect ( 1 degree toe in if anything ) and with working on discoverys wich have a sort of crook shape in them hmmmm

are they supposed to be dead straight if so ill sort it out tomorrow safety first an all that :):)
Click to expand...


Dunno - got me thinking now. I've not got mine for a couple of weeks so can't check to compare. Perhaps sopmeone else can confirm? :confused:

Your right about doozils - I was almost put off them when looking for a Landy but they're not 'that' much different to a petrol noise wise. Bit of smoke too all adds to the charactor....like steam engines :D
 
Land Raver said:
Dunno - got me thinking now. I've not got mine for a couple of weeks so can't check to compare. Perhaps sopmeone else can confirm? :confused:

Your right about doozils - I was almost put off them when looking for a Landy but they're not 'that' much different to a petrol noise wise. Bit of smoke too all adds to the charactor....like steam engines :D
Click to expand...


i fitted a brand new steering arm to mine and that was dead straight if that helps?
 
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