DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Uhm fellas.....
A little spoonfeeding please.
I'm pretty sure my car has developed the hot start problem. Ever since the engine swap, it's been easier to start cold than hot, but it's never been uncomfortably difficult to start hot- until today. Today it took a HECK of a lot of cranking to get it to fire up hot, so much so I was beginning to fear I'd run the battery flat before the car fired.
So back at the Batcave, I pulled out my Faultmate and got the attached readings. It says "Timing Modulation: 52.26%" and I have no idea what it SHOULD read. RAVE says "0.90MM +/- 0.02mm" which I reckon isn't the same language. Here's the questions:-
1) what SHOULD the "Timing Modulation" figure be for an engine that has covered 20k km?
2) IF it turns out my "Timing Modulation" is out of whack, would it be ok for me to just fix the symptom and adjust the FIP or should I really deal with the guts of it and fix the timing (or rather have it fixed)?
3) IF it turns out that my "Timing Modulation" is ok, where else should I be looking?
Cheers!
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Depends if it’s late or early model. Later models shouldn’t need an hotstart. Would give you an indication by fact the glow lamp will come on even when hot every turn of they key.
You need good glow plugs obviously
More than likely you need to set the static timing of the FIP. 20,000 is the service interval for it. 0.95mm lift on new chains/engine, after 20,000 it should be adjusted to 0.90mm.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5dt-fip-static-timing-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/
You need good glow plugs obviously
More than likely you need to set the static timing of the FIP. 20,000 is the service interval for it. 0.95mm lift on new chains/engine, after 20,000 it should be adjusted to 0.90mm.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5dt-fip-static-timing-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Mine's a 1997 so I'm not sure if that's early or late. I don't have the tools to do the static timing adjustment so I was kind of hoping to use my Faultmate's "Timing Modulation" reading to get me where I need to be. Unfortuantely I can't seem to find the value to shoot for. Heh.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
If it has no MAF and a metal inlet manifold it probably needs an hotstart. They can fault eventually. Not sure when they brought in the change, brings lift pump on when cranking is all. Check to see if your glows still come on repeatedly when warm.
Your modulation is fine according to your diagnostics. Has to be checked at fully warm idle. Any fault codes logged?
Your modulation is fine according to your diagnostics. Has to be checked at fully warm idle. Any fault codes logged?
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
That modulation figure is about as close as you will get to spot on, have a look at the leak off pipes as well, mine is a 97 has done that when hot and found the pipes leaking.
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Thanks buddy! I'll check for the MAF (never had to before) but I do remember the glowplug light coming on, on the dash even when the engine is warm VERY occasionally. Like maybe 5% of the time.
These readings were taken with the engine at normal operating temperature, easily 30 minutes after starting. Do you reckon it's worth doing it again when the engine is cold?
It didn't show any fault codes, no.
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Cheers Brian..... to be clear, these are the high pressure pipes between the FIP and cylinder head, yes?
Is your in tank fuel pump working?
Glow plugs in good condition?
The modulation isn't bad, was it at running temperature when you noted the modulation?
Any fuel leaks on the fip or around the injectors as said will let fuel out and air in.
Glow plugs in good condition?
The modulation isn't bad, was it at running temperature when you noted the modulation?
Any fuel leaks on the fip or around the injectors as said will let fuel out and air in.
No, the little rubber ones that leap-frog between each injector. The rubber perishes letting fuel leak back.
Modulation is checked at warm idle (temp guage in middle). 50% +/- 5% is perfect.
Someone mentioned lift-pump. Wammers did a how to in the tech archive which is dead quick and easy.
If hot-start is fitted the glows always come on. If it isn't and they are randomly coming on when hot then maybe the sensor is acting up.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Any bubbles in the clear pipe from fuel filter?
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
If you change the leak off pipes either put heat shrink on the ends or cable tie them on, they will last longer,
i dont know what it like over where you are but here some of the pipe is real crap and dont last six months
i dont know what it like over where you are but here some of the pipe is real crap and dont last six months
Dopey
Well-Known Member
You know I have always had air in the pipe sice I got it, and it has never been a problem for me
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Will definitely check this. The car has never been run dry but I guess anything's possible since it's been largely standing for the better part of a year now.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Why try and fix whats not broken, I have said a few times about it, but I dont see what can be done about it!!I did not know that.
Why does it not surprise me
Never any in mine. Mind you, I did fit a non-return valve when I did the lift pump.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I had a 1 1/2” bubble in beginning caused problems if it gets pulled in. Gradually got it to few pin size bubbles. Now nothing unless I notice an mpg drop, check for bubbles there will be few and that will mean change spills again.
