So we had a full three weeks of working range rover i think!

Then I got a phone call saying it was parked with a coolant leak :| I've now replaced the water pump and all idlers and tensioners restoring the functioning cooling system, and found a second ignition key in the process! Somehow the no.1 key was lodged in a pile of grease in the engine bay, near the o/s end of the radiator!

Downside is that the new aircon belt from GSF is the wrong length, and the new serpentine belt tensioner Euros sent me is for a V8, so I now need to return those! In addition, the EAS won't rise up and we have an EAS Fault message!

So guys, any help with the EAS issue please - symptoms are:

Wont rise
Compressor running full time - even with the door open it doesn't fill the tank
No significant air leaks from any pipe joints - very slow from the dryer but not enough to be a problem
Pump has strong vacuum at inlet and making good pressure at dryer
Air escaping through valve block exhaust full time.

Am I right at guessing diaphragm? If it is the diaphragm, is it worth doing a full valve block rebuild or just the diaphragm, and how should I clear the fault?

Regs,

Rich
 
So we had a full three weeks of working range rover i think!

Then I got a phone call saying it was parked with a coolant leak :| I've now replaced the water pump and all idlers and tensioners restoring the functioning cooling system, and found a second ignition key in the process! Somehow the no.1 key was lodged in a pile of grease in the engine bay, near the o/s end of the radiator!

Downside is that the new aircon belt from GSF is the wrong length, and the new serpentine belt tensioner Euros sent me is for a V8, so I now need to return those! In addition, the EAS won't rise up and we have an EAS Fault message!

So guys, any help with the EAS issue please - symptoms are:

Wont rise
Compressor running full time - even with the door open it doesn't fill the tank
No significant air leaks from any pipe joints - very slow from the dryer but not enough to be a problem
Pump has strong vacuum at inlet and making good pressure at dryer
Air escaping through valve block exhaust full time.

Am I right at guessing diaphragm? If it is the diaphragm, is it worth doing a full valve block rebuild or just the diaphragm, and how should I clear the fault?

Regs,

Rich

Replace diaphragm.
 
Replace diaphragm.

Cheers for the response! Will the fault on the dash clear it's self?

EDIT: Answered my own question - it's a soft fault and seems to reset it's self automatically and then appear a few seconds after starting.
 
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Plenty, straight out of the exhaust on the valve block! Seems from research that it's likely the diaphragm has failed and it's venting all pressure so can't pressurise the tank. I've ordered a valve block kit and a diaphragm kit and removed the valve block to rebuild in the week. Will see the rover on Friday evening to refit and hope it all works!

Rich
 
Valve block rebuild has sorted it. Seem to have a leak from the rear right circuit causing it to drop when parked but not a problem when running so will leave it until I get a chance to change the o rings for that outlet again - suspect I've probably pinched one a little. All back on the road again now though :)
 
Check with soapy water where the pipe goes into the valve block. Sometimes the cones on the solenoid wear a bit too.
 
Check with soapy water where the pipe goes into the valve block. Sometimes the cones on the solenoid wear a bit too.
Yeah. Planning that soon. Apparently it's blown the rad vent tube off now today so aa membership paying out again :/ someday it will be reliable!

edit: AA sniff tested - head gasket failed. Looks like I have more work to do!

Rich
 
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Yeah. Planning that soon. Apparently it's blown the rad vent tube off now today so aa membership paying out again :/ someday it will be reliable!

edit: AA sniff tested - head gasket failed. Looks like I have more work to do!

Rich

Hope it isn't warped. Better to get another head off a scrapper if it is.
 

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