...which turned out to be a 7 hour job!!! :( Damn, I thought getting the nut off the belt tresnioner on the TD4 was bad until I tried to do get the lower bolt off the thermostat housing on my VW van! NEVER again... My hands and fingers are painfully sore. But i have warm air in my van for the first time ever and a needle that is bang upright! Worth it, but if there was an inline mod like this, I'd have done it instead with hindsight..
 
Did the mod but, there was no coolant coming through the over flow pipe to the resivoir, this was solved by removing the inline thermostat, what are others experience of this?
 
I paid a garage 2.5hrs labour and £46 for the genuine LR thermostat... hardly worth fitting a bodge solution! Total was under 200 quid :D
Well done Cheviot 4x4...
 
Guys I did this about 3 years ago and have had no problems. The fans almost never come on and the engine still runs just below the 12 o'clock. I went for an 84-86 I believe but can't see the harm in an 88 or even a cooler 82. Coolant temp only ever in mid to high 90's at the highest. The one I used was from a Renault 5.
 
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Hi Guys.
How are you testing your thermostats on the FL 1 TD4 where should the needle be sitting after lets say a good hard run of about 10 miles, with differing speeds and stop start driving etc? on the R75 diesel I had you could use the OBD and read the true temperature of the engine to find out if the thermostat had stuck open, cheers Arctic2
 
edwardcraney2012 said:
Did the mod but, there was no coolant coming through the over flow pipe to the resivoir, this was solved by removing the inline thermostat, what are others experience of this?
Click to expand...

if you have done it on the 1800 petrol then you need to take it off the header tank and blow into the overflow pipe to open the jiggle pin ,if it is on a td4 then you need to bleed the system. hope this helps
 
rovermgfan said:
I also own a Rover 75 CDTi. Same engine, same problem solved this problem with the same stat.
Click to expand...
Hi all
I know it's been a while but I have just got my freelander 1 and have the lukewarm heater prob, so after reading the threads about the in line mod, I looked on eBay and The rover 75 mod is listed twice,
1: with a 88c thermostat and
2: with a choice of thermostats and different inlet and outlet hose size choices.
So which one would it be as I thought it would be a standard size...any info would be appreciated chaps.
 

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okay, so now bought one from the bay... £11:64, so will see what happens when I try to fit it. haha
not looking forward to the fitting though...lol
 
thebluemax said:
cheers actic2 I might just do that then, cheaper as well, but just didnt fancy the aggro of ripping the hose band off, is it best to take something else off to get to it easier ?
Click to expand...

You can remove the manifold this will help 10 fold to get the band if not use a triangle file which is best all round anyway to file through the steel band, you will need a 40-50 mm jubilee clip to refit after. ;)


How I/we do it on a R75
http://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/thermostat-replacement-t2877.html?hilit=inline stat
 
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Arctic2 said:
You can remove the manifold this will help 10 fold to get the band if not use a triangle file which is best all round anyway to file through the steel band, you will med a 40-50 mm jubilee clip to refit after. ;)


How I/we do it on a R75
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT : M47R Diesel Powered Derivatives - 75ZT Community stat
Click to expand...

thanks arctic, not sure about removing the manifold, never done it before and what about tightening up in sequence or torque settings ? don't have a torque wrench either....must buy one someday, mind you if I did take it off, could de-gunk it at the same time as my FL has done 122000 miles.
 
Arctic2 said:
You can remove the manifold this will help 10 fold to get the band if not use a triangle file which is best all round anyway to file through the steel band, you will med a 40-50 mm jubilee clip to refit after. ;)


How I/we do it on a R75
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT : M47R Diesel Powered Derivatives - 75ZT Community stat
Click to expand...

well I thought, lets have a go at this in line thermo....actually cutting off the band was the easy bit, great I thought soon sort this out.How wrong I was then !! took the hose off completely as I couldn't get the thermostat far enough down the hose with it on the car, even then with hot water and even a hairdryer I only managed to get it so far down that the brass end stuck out of the hose, no problem I thought , I did read that someone else had left it sticking out a bit when they did the mod but it still worked okay .
however it had not gone in far enough and it left the hose end to reattach to the block a little spayed out, after refit it leaked like a sieve (and isn't it a bitch to get under the manifold to tighten up the jubilee clip afterwards)
so I took the thermostat back out and reattached the hose, now no leaks
So I guess it will have to go for the aluminum one cut into the hose instead....sigh
 
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