Hi everyone!

So after looking for ages, I bought my first land rover! Disco 2 TD5 (2000).

I had it for less than a week, and one morning for work the fob wouldn't work before work! Ahh. Upon entering the landy with the key in the door the alarms blared, in which I pulled the horn fuse and disconnected the sounder so I could investigate further.

I was able to obtain the EKA code from a landy dealership and worked a treat. Can drive it with the code (after the 5 min wait).

Anyway after lots of research I proceeded with the following steps:

I changed the battery fob, twice, with new batteries. Fob shows red light when pressing unlock/lock buttons

Mr. AA tested strength of fob, getting good signal.

After some research, had a look for the receiver. Took the head lining out, all seemed OK. The receiver was not damp, no sun roof on the disco. Although this, there was no earth bolted on the side like some of I have seen? Unfortunately the YWY.... number had been ripped off.

I ordered another receiver which came today - YWY000080. I installed this and connected the earth properly. But still no luck and the landy does not respond to the fob

Does the fob need resyncing? Can it de sync for some reason? Is this only possible with a nanocom?

Another concern: the bonnet entry switch has been removed, only noticed this after looking over the alarm system in RAVE. could this be stopping the car from being immobilised? It seemed to work the first (and only) 2 times I drove the car haha.

Does any one have any further suggestions? I am due to move house next week and could really do with this issue sorted!!!

Thank you in advance!

Hi, the bonnet switch is not an issue, you have to troubleshoot why the receiver is not comunicating with the fob or BCU, a RF test with nanocom or similar is compulsory and the vehicle to be remobilised with EKA otherwise the diagnostic line is disabled

Ok, I will look into renting a nanocom, thanks for the reply. So if the RF test with the receiver fails, what next? I have measured 12v at the receiver plug so the cable run is fine. Could the BCU be busted?? Is this easily replaceable?

If the RF test fails you have to check continuity on that line to BCU and if it's good then the BCU is suspect, provided the fob has not lost syncronisation cos it can happen as well. The BCU is replaceable if you have nanocom and know what to do

hi did you find your issues harry32? I have gone over
lots of issues related to this fault if you look on my thread regarding this (d2 fob help I've tried everything) there maybe be some answers your looking for. I finally got to the bottom of it today.

v8metd2 said:

hi did you find your issues harry32? I have gone over
lots of issues related to this fault if you look on my thread regarding this (d2 fob help I've tried everything) there maybe be some answers your looking for. I finally got to the bottom of it today.

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hey dude! No unfortunately still not sorted.. I tested with nanocom and key fob was detected, so to me it looks like BCU is at fault. I’ve disabled the immobiliser for now until I can afford to source a new BCU. I’m in the process of moving house so busy atm, just needed a running Land Rover! I will take a look at your posts . Cheers mate.

Harry32 said:

hey dude! No unfortunately still not sorted.. I tested with nanocom and key fob was detected, so to me it looks like BCU is at fault. I’ve disabled the immobiliser for now until I can afford to source a new BCU. I’m in the process of moving house so busy atm, just needed a running Land Rover! I will take a look at your posts . Cheers mate.

Click to expand...

No worries I would change idm first it’s plug and play and are not expensive

I did not realize you could disable the immobilizer. My one wouldn't start the other day and I would gladly disable the immobilizer so long as it doesn't randomly turn back on.
How did you do it? I assume via a diagnostic?

Russell 1 said:

I did not realize you could disable the immobilizer. My one wouldn't start the other day and I would gladly disable the immobilizer so long as it doesn't randomly turn back on.
How did you do it? I assume via a diagnostic?

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Yes I didn't know it was possible either! Yeah, so enter the EKA code at the door, then you can link up the nanocom. I paid a guy to use his nanocom and he was helpful!! He basically disabled all the immobiliser settings and had it to start on key only.

Yes passive immobiliser can be disabled as long as you disable the immobiliser first via fob or or eka that then allows nanocom to communicate to the bcu to change settings required.

Cool I wonder if a Hawkeye will do it?
I dislike alarm/ immobilizers, ten years ago it was easy to remove the gubbins and a new key cost £10!
A new key for my white elephant l322 is over £300.

Russell 1 said:

Cool I wonder if a Hawkeye will do it?
I dislike alarm/ immobilizers, ten years ago it was easy to remove the gubbins and a new key cost £10!
A new key for my white elephant l322 is over £300.

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Not sure Russel... nanocoms can be hired for £40 on ebay! I'd like one myself but can't afford forking out £400

I’ve had no experience with Hawkeye sorry

Russell 1 said:

Cool I wonder if a Hawkeye will do it?
I dislike alarm/ immobilizers,

Click to expand...

Yes hawkeye can - BCU - programming - set Alarm = not fitted ... and you are done with it

Awesome thanks