@tomcat59alan - well, so that I can fit bigger tyres ‘cos then it’ll look like a proper off roader.... then I need one of those “One Life...” banners, a snorkel, rock sliders, indicator protectors, diff guards.... what else? - Ooh, a winch obvs!

The current set up is factory standard except for some all terrain tyres - and it does really well. You turn up at event with lots of heavily modified Disco’s and Defenders and usually as the 1 single Rangey feeling a bit outgunned, and often viewed suspiciously by the others as the naive idiot who is going to slow down the group all day being towed up hills, out of rocky holes and ruts and deep ruts. Then they are amazed when the Ranger trundles up ridiculous routes that others are getting well stuck on. The problem occurrs when following a group of said modified cars and they carve deeper ruts than the unmodified RR can cope with and it then gets grounded on the diff’. So - need to raise the diff’ as that is the only weak point I have encountered so far.
Have you ever thought of leading the way? You should be in front anyway, being a proper Range Rover driver.;):D
 
It also clearly states "wade" ;)

Anyway I find it funny that the car limits the maximum speed in wade/offroad height............................ ;)
It does say AND wade, but still clearly says off road, i.e. the expectation that when off roading you'd likely use this ride height instead of the Standard one, which doesn't mention off roading in its description.

Of course the reality is, the terrain and situation will dictate what will be best. But the long wheel base and small tyres mean you can ground out and bash the underside quite easily even on something as simple as a rutted lane. So the Standard ride height will have short comings on the rough.

As for finding it funny about having maximum speeds in that mode. RR's became trendy through the 80s and into the 1990s and people kept turning them over. Hence why the spring rate on the RRC went from very soft to very hard, as well as adding beefy ARB's, all ultimately reducing ride quality and off road prowess. The variable height of the EAS allows the centre of gravity to be lowered, which should in theory make for a more stable vehicle in an extreme situation (situations the media like to report on, although they are situations most normal people don't find themselves in for 99.99% of the time).

The concept of the EAS is pretty sound. But the execution of how it impacts the effective spring rate is not. And is a flawed design, only rectified in the aftermarket with Arnott Gen 3's. More modern EAS setups from Land Rover are designed differently and address this directly from a design point of view.
 
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The car does not as far as I'm aware limit the speed to 35mph in wade height, it's just that if you go faster than that the car will lower to normal height. However I do believe if you activate the lock button it will stay up but I have not tried it.
The inhibit button only locks Standard and Low ride heights. The High will automatically lower itself if you exceed a certain speed, regardless of if you press the Inhibit button or not. It is in the manual, page 115 or 116 I think. I've also experienced it for real.
 
No it clearly says off road AND also recommended for wading. You've got to be an idiot to still harp on it is only for wading...

As for finding it funny about having maximum speeds in that mode. This is pretty obvious really. RR's became trendy and people kept turning them over. Hence why the spring rate on the RRC went from very soft to very hard, as well as adding beefy ARB's, all ultimately reducing ride quality and off road prowess. The variable height of the EAS allows the centre of gravity to be lowered, which should in theory make for a more stable vehicle in an extreme situation (situations the media like to report on, although they are situations most normal people don't find themselves in for 99.99% of the time).

The concept of the EAS is pretty sound. But the execution of how it impacts the effective spring rate is not. And is a flawed design, only rectified in the aftermarket with Arnott Gen 3's. More modern EAS setups from Land Rover are designed differently and address this directly from a design point of view.

When did the RRC get stiffer springs? o_O:rolleyes:
The only RRC's that had "harder" springs were the Diesels because of the heavier engine, and then it was only the front springs as for the entire car getting stiffer units the Police got slightly stiffer coils for obvious reasons.
The 1992+ had EAS and all LWBs, which arguably is the best iteration of the RRC..

And yes I'm harping on about the offroad mode, why?

Because it says it is meant for Wade/Offroad, doesn't really matter though! ;) LOLOLOL

The RRC had the Boge rear strut which is supposed to counter the excessively soft rear springs, however 99% of them don't work, and even when they do the unit has a bypass valve inside which cuts in if the load is too great anyway..
 
The inhibit button only locks Standard and Low ride heights. The High will automatically lower itself if you exceed a certain speed, regardless of if you press the Inhibit button or not. It is in the manual, page 115 or 116 I think. I've also experienced it for real.
I thought the inhibit switch prevents the suspension from lowering from standard when towing to prevent the jockey wheel of the trailer/caravan coming in contact with the road.
 
Perhaps I worded it incorrectly,the top moves away from the bottom when inflated and can adjust depending on the hight sensor.
Well the bottom moves away from the top too....

A tyre really is doing very much the same thing when you inflate/deflate it.
 
I thought the inhibit switch prevents the suspension from lowering from standard when towing to prevent the jockey wheel of the trailer/caravan coming in contact with the road.
The Inhibit button can lock Low or Standard ride heights, it can also be used to enable the Crawl ride height (for use in multi stories, etc.). The manual explains it well.

In total there are 5 ride height modes, 4 are user selectable, 1 is not (Extended). On the forum people seem to get mixed up and call High the Extended mode. And not sure why, but on here there is also an Urban Myth high is only for wading... which isn't what Land Rover say.
 
Well the bottom moves away from the top too....

A tyre really is doing very much the same thing when you inflate/deflate it.
But you would have to be physically next to the valve to deflate it and have a compressor to inflate it, Try doing that when the vehicle is moving.
 
When did the RRC get stiffer springs? o_O:rolleyes:
The only RRC's that had "harder" springs were the Diesels because of the heavier engine
1987-91 models have heavier rate rear springs according to the charts.

ARB's were also added, which obviously has quite an impact on roll stiffness too.
 
But you would have to be physically next to the valve to deflate it and have a compressor to inflate it, Try doing that when the vehicle is moving.
eh? Not sure what you are getting at here.

What has moving got to do with it?

My point was, put more air in an air spring and it'll not only raise the vehicle, but also increase the pressure. If you struggle with the concept, let the air out of one of your tyres and measure the pressure. Add air and re-measure the pressure. You'll see that not only has the vehicle gone up, but the pressure will have increased.

Which part of this are you either not getting or disputing??? :(:(:(
 
1987-91 models have heavier rate rear springs according to the charts.

ARB's were also added, which obviously has quite an impact on roll stiffness too.
ARB's were added in 1991.

As for the stiffer rear coils, can't find anything to suggest they got stiffer, with the BOGE strut in place standard springs which are 133 inch lbs front and 150 inch lbs rear, diesels 1987 onwards with the intro of the 492 VM unit had 150 inch lb front springs to cope with the extra weight.

heavy duty and/or "police spec" are progressive 170lb
 
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eh? Not sure what you are getting at here.

What has moving got to do with it?

My point was, put more air in an air spring and it'll not only raise the vehicle, but also increase the pressure. If you struggle with the concept, let the air out of one of your tyres and measure the pressure. Add air and re-measure the pressure. You'll see that not only has the vehicle gone up, but the pressure will have increased.

Which part of this are you either not getting or disputing??? :(:(:(
The air spring will adjust whilst the vehicle is moving where as a tyre won't.thats what it's got to do with it.
 
The air spring will adjust whilst the vehicle is moving where as a tyre won't.thats what it's got to do with it.
But that isn't what we are discussing???

And the air spring will not continually adjust every second, it will just maintain its height, but the wheel can still go up and down. And it doesn't remove or add air to enable this.
 

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