I have considered a re-plumb, but the rubber grommet/boot that takes it through the wheel arch is of a fixed (large) size.
I have considered a re-plumb, but the rubber grommet/boot that takes it through the wheel arch is of a fixed (large) size.
It might be easiest to insert a small section of additional tube behind the C-Pillar capping and a barrel-connector so that you can work on it without it bein as tight as a ruddy bow-string.
I have got to get this fixed because it is ruining the interior carpeting.
Is that a rural pastime in Essex Dan?....And.... what total feckin' moron decided to put that soft rubber joiner through the wheel-arch panel under/alongside the rear inertia-reel mechanism and behind a bracket?
Re-inserting the clear plastic tube is like I imagine it would be to insert a wet and floppy bit of large size macaroni up an angry cat's arse while wearing boxing gloves.
In the end I had to put a holesaw through the bracket to allow me to gain access and re-insert the pipe.
I will have to do this all over again when I apply sealant to the joint.
Do it in 10mm copper
Sticking things up ar$e$... definitely.Is that a rural pastime in Essex Dan?.
Not a bad idea Keith.Do it in 10mm copper
Do it in 10mm copper
The rubber "boot" has a"flange" either side of the wheel arch panel, above the panel and inside the car it is an enlarged CUP into which the clear plastic pipework is inserted.
Silicone sealant would do the job, sticks well, is flexible and is reasonably easy to remove.
I do have that option. Some 10mm OD 8mm ID aquarium tubing is on its way as well as some straight barbed-connector joiners. Ordered because I want to be able to cover all bases; first pass will be self-amalgamating tape collar on bottom of the extruded clear pipe and a backfill of silicone. I will test it harshly and then if it fails I will bore the existing cups out and push 10mm tube right through.
Good point, I can still use the 10mm tube, but put 12mm OD/10mmID over the joins.I would avoid using straight internal joiners on the 8mm id tube as it would be more likely to bung up, thats why i was suggesting putting a tube over the existing tubing so making it bigger bore.
as they say bigger is better
Nice one DanI think I've fixed it! (Famous last words).
I removed the clear plastic pipe and with a funnel and a tube I poured 1 pint of water into the rubber boot/grommet.
No splash-back and the water exited out under the car immediately (no downstream blockages).
I put a 1/4-inch "shoulder" of self-amalgamating rubber tape on the end of the formed area of the plastic pipe and trimmed the end to make sure the bore of the pipe was unimpeded.
When putting the pipe back into the boot/grommet it was a squeaky fit.
I backfilled the open end of the rubber boot/grommet with sealant and then put a miniature cable tie around the boot/grommet where the new "shoulder" was located.
I will let the sealant set a bit and then try a watering can of water dumped on the roof before I commit to replacing all the trim and risking my freshly dried-out carpets.
