buying a water pump tomorrow either way and few gaskets and stuff so will check out what it does when thats fitted and check the rad also. cause be my luck i'll fix the pump and it be something else to go with it lol
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
GET a bottle of K SEAL as well 
since you told me bout it forever ago its become part of my "new" coolant shopping list lolGET a bottle of K SEAL as well
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
You mean to tell me you aint got none in !
I'd definitely check the radiator. If you have an infrared temperature gun, check both sides of the radiator too, you should see a significant difference in temperature if water is flowing through correctly. (and the fan is operating)
This will help to tell you if there is a blockage (which could also be a dodgy thermostat)
This will help to tell you if there is a blockage (which could also be a dodgy thermostat)
no fancy tools here just the torque wrench a "special tool number1" (hammer) some spanners and my eyecrometer lol
well i have some sockets and other tools but nothing fancy or posh lol
im assuming im checking for even cover so start her up "COLD" and then run my hand back and forth on the rad while its warming if it all gets too hot to touch its all clear lol my hands are used to getting burnt on hot engines and parts so i should be fine. also helps im a medic so can fix myself if im not hahaYou should be able to feel the difference
Be my guest to use your hand
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
to check a rad is cooling ,get engine well up to temp 8 miles or so switch off and put your hand on rad through the fan checking as much surface as you can
hahahaha.
You'll need to wait until it's warmed up, otherwise the thermostat doesn't open and theres no flow through the radiator anyway. Wait until the gauge reads centre, then check for a temperature drop across the radiator, I wouldn't recommend using your hands as it's not exactly accurate or safe. But if you get a drop across it, then the thermostat is working and there's a flow. However, if you have a partial blockage, you may get a difference, but you won't have the flow thats required to cool the engine.
It could well be that you have a blown head gasket, but it's always good to check the cooling system is working properly first.
james/simon, i know the thermo wont open until temp but the rad wont go from cold to hot in an instant either my plan was just let it do its thing ticking over (fan removed) checking every few mins until a temp change then feel for even heating up of the rad. but yeah know it could be head gasket and my pump is squealing so gonna change that and sort the cooling system first either way. have you watched the video i posted a few posts back! if yes whats your thoughts on it lol
edit: hand is not so much a choice its what i have that dont cost me anything. cash as always is tight and i would rather spend more on decent parts than "sometimes" useful tools.
edit: hand is not so much a choice its what i have that dont cost me anything. cash as always is tight and i would rather spend more on decent parts than "sometimes" useful tools.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
why ,waiting is torture just get it up to temp then check
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
its likely you need a new gasket ,but rad check is still vital as its often the cause of head gasket issues
Make sure water pump has a metal impeller, not plastic. They are known to fail.
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately it looks very much like the beginning of a cylinder compression into cooling jacket head gasket blow, the bubbles are tiny, but it's accumulative effect in a closed cooling system means that the gasses displace the coolant.
It will only get worse the more you use it, and if coolant is going back the other way after shutdown the cylinder will corrode or could even hydraulic on startup.
got the parts to do water pump and head gasket figured may as well do it all first as last and as soon as its done i'll test the rad if it needs doing also then that will be next and disco will stay off the road until i get it.
question as always with me. is there a way i can test the rad with it off or with it in place while i have everything in bits!
question as always with me. is there a way i can test the rad with it off or with it in place while i have everything in bits!
ok so started the strip down first thing i have noticed is the water pump seems to be in working order with no play or broken bits (still going to fit the new one)
got a question about the "bleed hose" (thin one by the header tank with what looks to be a small valve and 3 pipes) how should that valve work i can blow through it in all directions from all pipes! is it broke! how crucial is that part right now! what damage will it cause!
will post some pics later/tomorrow when the damn rain f**ks off so i can carry on. will also get pics of it when the head is off for you guys to put an eyeball on and see if you can spot anything that i cant or that i dont know about (there's a lot i dont know about pmsl but i am learning)
(still going to fit the new one)got a question about the "bleed hose" (thin one by the header tank with what looks to be a small valve and 3 pipes) how should that valve work i can blow through it in all directions from all pipes! is it broke! how crucial is that part right now! what damage will it cause!
will post some pics later/tomorrow when the damn rain f**ks off so i can carry on. will also get pics of it when the head is off for you guys to put an eyeball on and see if you can spot anything that i cant or that i dont know about (there's a lot i dont know about pmsl but i am learning)
Just replaced mine, because it had split - nothing in the "valve" so don't worry.
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
P gasket. You will unclamp most of the loading force on the P-gasket when you undo the water pump - might pay to have a gasket available just in case.
I'd also have a set of waterpump bolts, especially the long ones in case the buggers prove awkward, and if they stat housing and rad have plastic plugs swap them for brass ones.
I'd also have a set of waterpump bolts, especially the long ones in case the buggers prove awkward, and if they stat housing and rad have plastic plugs swap them for brass ones.
