OK I have a new leather gaitor for my Freelander 1 Facelift Auto as the old looks moth eaten
How the heck do you get the nob off? Well I have it half off but there is a nylon plastic part that is attached and leads down into the gear stick part. I don't want to pull it out further, or force something. I might already have done somehing bad???

I forgot nothing is easy with a LR., Ahhhhh.

Im sure you put it in neutral & pull yer nob off but make sure yer face is out the way or your knock yourself out.

Did that but a long nylon tail came out with it, but only so far. I'm reluctant to pull further and break that tail thing.
Thanks for the suggestion though.

It just needs a good hard tug

Well I've got it out. Yipeee!!!
It wasn't just a tug, but needed a turn of the nylon tail thing. The tug was the first part, and then turned. Now have top nob with a tail. I hope thats how its meant to be.

Now I find the old gaitor sandwiched in the circular consul part. There seems to be three plastic rivet kind of things and a fourth squidge. Well the last is a plastic blob.
Anyone know if its just the case of melting theses rivets out somehow or is there something much more simple that is beyond me????

Muskett said:

Anyone know if its just the case of melting theses rivets out somehow or is there something much more simple that is beyond me????

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@kernowsvenski did this job recently. Maybe he will come along in a but and share his experiences with you.

I asked him to do mine, but as my auto box is busted at the moment, there seems little point in making it look pretty inside.

I'm giving it another go today, need to get it done. Its these little design failures that really get up my goat; what the hecjk was LR design team thinking? Ahhhhh.....again.

Muskett said:

I'm giving it another go today, need to get it done. Its these little design failures that really get up my goat; what the hecjk was LR design team thinking? Ahhhhh.....again.

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Not just LR, but l all manufacturers use the same basic principles for the gear stick gaiter. I've just had to replace the one on the wife's Fiat 500, which had completely fallen to bits, much worse than my auto gaiter, and 5 years newer too.

Apologies @Muskett and @Nodge68 . I've not been online a day or two.

I used a dril bit in a hand operated drill to carefully take off enough of the plastic to free the frame, but leave enough of a protrusion for the assembly to locate when putting it back together. I may be too late with a response for you though now I guess. Have you had success @Muskett ?

Offer is still there for you by the way @Nodge68 . Just drop me a PM.

kernowsvenski said:

Offer is still there for you by the way @Nodge68 . Just drop me a PM.

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Thanks Kernowsvenski.

I've been tied up with some extensive renovations to my garage and garden, so other than the occasional start, the poor Freelander have been totally ignored.

I'll PM when I'm ready.
Thanks for the offer.

Update:

A glue gun comes in handy..

Having whole circular frame and gaiter out, turn upside down and locate tabs. The gaiter frame drops from above with four melt tabs coming through below.
Gently melt the holding tabs so the gaiter and gaiter frame can be pulled off from the main circular frame.
Take old gaiter off frame carefully, and clean up the area of any residual glue.
Fit frame into new gaiter by just dropping in, and glue first before trimming. Don't try and trim before, glue first, then fold over and glue more. All making sure everything is oriented correctly. Here a hot glue gun helps as the glue isn't permanent straight off, and is strong enough for the job.
Once glue has set/cooled then trim very carefully excess around frame. Even more carefully around the tabs.
I enlarged the tab holes in the main circular frame, so could fill with plenty of hot glue to fix. My new gaiter was higher quality and a tad thicker than the original and the fixing tabs aren't much. A good blob into each tab/hole, I ran glue all around the inside, again the glue isn't too permanent. Keep pressure on until set/cooled for a good tight fix.

Then fold inside out to fit the metal ring and O ring to hold the leather gaiter top.

Hope that helps the next to try.
ATB

I found that superglue worked really well and with careful application and positioning, no trimming was required. I was concerned about the thicker material of the repacement gaiter but it all went in lovely on mine. Didn't need a hot melt glue gun or heat gun. I did sand the frame to give the super glue a good key mind.