griff2 · May 10, 2015

well did a ohms test on the 3 front coils 2 where 1.3 at the 200 setting on the metre the other was 1.4 on the metre

so i assume as so close there ok?

Nodge68 · May 10, 2015

The coils are ok. Code P0300 is multiple misfiring on multiple cylinders. The only thing that affects all cylinders is the fuel delivery system or the fuel it's self. How old is the fuel? If it more than 3 months then it has to be suspect.

lenny1234 · May 12, 2015

Might be a random fault affecting all the cylinders of an electrical sort - corroded connector or ground etc etc.

Or some crap affecting the crank sensor

griff2 · May 12, 2015

where is the crank sensor located? front,back,side?
is it hard to get to?

griff2 · May 12, 2015

right the compression test !!!
ive gone first bank 1,2,3
second bank 4,5,6 (just makes it easier for me to log lol)

first bank
1

2

3

4

5 I forgot to take a pic of this ont BUT IT WAS JUST BELOW 175, around 170

6

so lowest was 170 ,hightest was 180

3 where 175
2 where 180
1 was 170

are they in range as was told should be around 175 ,but some are slighty higher some slightly lower

lenny1234 · May 12, 2015

griff2 said:
where is the crank sensor located? front,back,side?
is it hard to get to?

Right I am not good on that engine but te camshaft sensor will be at one end of the camshaft and I think the crank sensor is down around the bell housing somewhere.

griff2 · May 12, 2015

found the cam sensor ,it was covered in crap so cleaned it up and put that back (its def working as turned car over with it missing and no way would it start,once back in it started again first turn of the key),but still not located the crank sensor yet

lenny1234 · May 12, 2015

griff2 said:
found the cam sensor ,it was covered in crap so cleaned it up and put that back (its def working as turned car over with it missing and no way would it start,once back in it started again first turn of the key),but still not located the crank sensor yet

I found a diag and it looks like its in line with the oil filler cap but a few inches to the right and down on the bell housing.

I suppose cleaning the cam sensor didn't sort anything out then?

griff2 · May 12, 2015

no it did nothing lol ,but i will have a look for crank sensor tomorrow as if its in that area your dia says ,there it lots of crap down there so i dare say its covered in crap,will be worth a clean either way lol

The Mad Hat Man · May 12, 2015

was reading a post a couple of months ago, where an oil leak caused oil ingress into one of the sensor connectors which caused major probs. Clean all the muck off, clean the connectors and check for leaks.

Nodge68 · May 12, 2015

griff2 said:
right the compression test !!!
ive gone first bank 1,2,3
second bank 4,5,6 (just makes it easier for me to log lol)

first bank
1

2

3

4

5 I forgot to take a pic of this ont BUT IT WAS JUST BELOW 175, around 170

6

so lowest was 170 ,hightest was 180

3 where 175
2 where 180
1 was 170

are they in range as was told should be around 175 ,but some are slighty higher some slightly lower

All the cylinders are fine for compression. Having a swing of just 10 Psi over all of them is about as good as it can be.
The crank sensor is on the front of the bell housing, just to the left of the gearbox fluid cooler

It's held in place by an 8mm bolt, just like the cam sensor.

griff2 · May 12, 2015

yay im glad i got the thumbs up for compression, i no that should of been the first thing i checked lol ,but will check the crank senor tomorrow ,if i take it off,clean it up what ohms should it be?

could a dirty crank sensor course this problem?

Nodge68 · May 12, 2015

griff2 said:
yay im glad i got the thumbs up for compression, i no that should of been the first thing i checked lol ,but will check the crank senor tomorrow ,if i take it off,clean it up what ohms should it be?

could a dirty crank sensor course this problem?

You can't test the crank sensor with a simple Ohms test I'm afraid. It's a hall effect sensor, generally they work or they don't. The only way to test them correctly is with an oscilloscope so you can monitor the output waveform. Give it a clean and clean the connection. Otherwise it's a replacement job I'm afraid. However the ECU should flag a code if the sensor is iffy

griff2 · May 13, 2015

well seeing the pullem was off after the comp test ,i added even more sealant to ensure 150% its not leaking air in ,all back together and still the ####ing same ahhhh

took the crank sensor out ,gave it a clean up

back in and for around 15mins i had no misfire faults ,but then it came back
could the crank sensor be going down as it gets hot? could a coil be going down as it gets hot?

ive run out of ideas !!!! and im very fast running out of time !!! i move in less than 3 mnths if she not fixed by then i will have to scrap her :-(

griff2 · May 13, 2015

ps is the crank sensor the same on a td4? or if not i have a classic mini with a 1.8vvc kseries engine it that the same sensor? just thinking if so maybe i could swop them over to see

Nodge68 · May 13, 2015

griff2 said:
ps is the crank sensor the same on a td4? or if not i have a classic mini with a 1.8vvc kseries engine it that the same sensor? just thinking if so maybe i could swop them over to see

The sensor could be failing. It's not common but can happen. You aren't getting a code for it though. The sensor isn't the same as VVC or TD4, I don't think. It's a BMW part, common on lots of BMW petrol engines. I have a brand new one here for my KV6 powered MGF project. Sadly you are too far away to borrow it.

griff2 · May 13, 2015

do you think it would be worth seeing if i could get hold of one? but like you said would it not throw a code up?

i know as soon as i unplugged it and ran torque it came up with a fault code saying crank shaft

Nodge68 · May 13, 2015

griff2 said:
do you think it would be worth seeing if i could get hold of one? but like you said would it not throw a code up?

i know as soon as i unplugged it and ran torque it came up with a fault code saying crank shaft

I don't believe it's the crank sensor as they are very reliable. However I have come across one that caused a misfire it high RPM. It didn't flag a code for the sensor either, just the misfire. The problem with hall effect sensors is the difficulty in testing them. The ECU can monitor what it's doing and flag a fault when it doesn't do as expected. Substitution is the only sure way to tell if it fixes the fault. They cost around £30 if you can find one.

Hippo · May 16, 2015

If it were me I'd be looking to get hold of a diagnostic device which can read more info like live data on the engine to help. The faults you have seem tricky to locate.

Nodge68 · May 16, 2015

Hippo said:
If it were me I'd be looking to get hold of a diagnostic device which can read more info like live data on the engine to help. The faults you have seem tricky to locate.

Giff has Torque on his smart phone. This can be used to check out live data. Sadly he doesn't know how to use it for this advanced function.

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