Oops sorry guys I miss the part that this was to remove the pulley. I still don't know what the interior dimensions of the Crank Pulley are. if they are 50 mm a Honda tool will work. If not, you can make your own using some pipe pieces:
Some ideas here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/
Some ideas here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/
comdek
Member
After buying new tools and a lot of hard work, I removed the water pump.
To remove the crankshaft pulley screw, I supported the tool in the ground hit the engine starter quickly to spin 1/2 round.
After, I put the timing belt pulley on the mark and caught the flywheel with a improvised tool. Marked the belt and camshaft pulleys with ink.
The impeller from water pump is not freewheeling and is not broken. Physical looking the pump is in good condition, but inside the engine it seems that the impeller sometimes scraped on the block (see images).
Tomorrow I will put tap water in 2 inputs inside from pump housing, and buy a new water pump with the metal impeller.
To remove the crankshaft pulley screw, I supported the tool in the ground hit the engine starter quickly to spin 1/2 round.
After, I put the timing belt pulley on the mark and caught the flywheel with a improvised tool. Marked the belt and camshaft pulleys with ink.
The impeller from water pump is not freewheeling and is not broken. Physical looking the pump is in good condition, but inside the engine it seems that the impeller sometimes scraped on the block (see images).
Tomorrow I will put tap water in 2 inputs inside from pump housing, and buy a new water pump with the metal impeller.
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Here are some other ideas no ideas how far fetch (impossible): if the transmission or the IRD are overheating somehow, when you are testing at idle and stationary, it will not over heat, yet if you drive, the heat gets picked up.
A way to test might be to run the Freelander stationary but at higher rpm like 3000 and see what happens to the temperature for a good length of time (something like 10-15 mins, basically the same length of time you normally see overheating when driving)
Also did you check that your radiator has good flow? Putting a hose at one end and looking for the flow at the bottom might be a good test.
Well I got my reply. The honda tools will not work (The Rover 75 V6 has the same engine)
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=205137
This guy shows how he made his own tool for the fly wheel and his locking pin:
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=204919
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=205137
This guy shows how he made his own tool for the fly wheel and his locking pin:
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=204919
comdek
Member
I´ve tested the radiator inserting a hose with tap water pressure on the top and in bottom the water coming out with good pressure.
With engine hot (99ºC), all the radiator was hot too.
My suspicion is water flow problem. As has two outputs in water pump housing, may be that the flow that returns to the cylinder block is too low, and to the bypass out is good. Is there a diagram of how the water circulates inside the block?
With engine hot (99ºC), all the radiator was hot too.
My suspicion is water flow problem. As has two outputs in water pump housing, may be that the flow that returns to the cylinder block is too low, and to the bypass out is good. Is there a diagram of how the water circulates inside the block?
I apologize but I don't understand what you are saying. "It boiled well". Do you mean it never overheated in that situation or it did overheat in that situation ?
This scraping might mean the pump was rubbing against the engine block. This would for sure restrict flow. If you put the old pump against the engine block in its hole, does it feel like it is rubbing when you spin it by hand ?
I wonder if the pump impeller moved up on its shaft over the years thus bringing it closer to the engine block.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I believe that the impeller is of the plastic variety. I've seen these slip on the shaft when headed to about over 100°C. I suspect this is causing the problem. I'd put the whole pump in a large pan of boiling water for a few minutes, then try to move the impeller on its shaft.
B34R
Active Member
Looks like something's moved somewhere, the impeller should not touch the housing.
Given that the pump doesn't positively engage with the belt, only connects by friction, I wonder if the pump has been jamming.
Is the back of the belt shiny in places, like it's been slipping on the pump?
Given the state of it, I bet @Nodge68 is correct.
Given that the pump doesn't positively engage with the belt, only connects by friction, I wonder if the pump has been jamming.
Is the back of the belt shiny in places, like it's been slipping on the pump?
Given the state of it, I bet @Nodge68 is correct.
comdek
Member
The radiator is fine, I put tap water in top hose and the flow is good on bottom hose.
With car stopped in garage and engine running varying the RPM 2000~3000 did overheat.
With pump installed in block, the impeller don´t touch in block housing, but my suspicion is that this occurred and wore the impeller.
Make the pump soap. After 7minutes in hot water, impeller is ok, no slip.
Yes! I changed the timing belt by a new last month, after the overheat problem thinking about it. I looked belt now, and presents slip signals in it.
My fault is not changed the water pump together.
The new belt now:
The evidence indicates that water pump hangs at some point of life.
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
Crikey, That might be the problem then. Your lucky the belt didn't break with overheating.
What I meant by the radiator was, I have seen some where they held water fine but half of the thin alloy fins were missing so less cooling effect. Kinda moot point mind if the water pump is the problem.
Fingers crossed.
What I meant by the radiator was, I have seen some where they held water fine but half of the thin alloy fins were missing so less cooling effect. Kinda moot point mind if the water pump is the problem.
Fingers crossed.
comdek
Member
Now in the night, I tested inserting tap water in the holes.
The pump housing have 3 holes. The number 1 is the output to oil rad and heater, the number 2 go to inside the block and number 3 is the input, coming from thermostat housing.
The number 2 have some resistance in water flow, because the thermostat input have a valve with regulated spring that adjust the pressure at 15% flow. If disconnect the top radiator hose, all the water inserted into the hole 2 has to get out in the top hose. I didn't make this test, but tomorrow I´ll try.
The system initially has no hose and hose clogged. The water that comes out shows no signs of rust.
I disconnect the hose from the oil radiator and inserted water. The 2 ways has a good flow.
Tomorrow I will buy a new pump and start the assembly.
The pump housing have 3 holes. The number 1 is the output to oil rad and heater, the number 2 go to inside the block and number 3 is the input, coming from thermostat housing.
The number 2 have some resistance in water flow, because the thermostat input have a valve with regulated spring that adjust the pressure at 15% flow. If disconnect the top radiator hose, all the water inserted into the hole 2 has to get out in the top hose. I didn't make this test, but tomorrow I´ll try.
The system initially has no hose and hose clogged. The water that comes out shows no signs of rust.
I disconnect the hose from the oil radiator and inserted water. The 2 ways has a good flow.
Tomorrow I will buy a new pump and start the assembly.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Interesting stuff. I fear all the over heating will cause damage. When I did my cam belt I was surprised to see the water pump was smooth. The second time I took it oft I used a 9mm drill bit to lock it (solid end poked in) as I sold the kit I had. It's interesting to see there's several methods of getting the bolt oft the pulley. LR quote their own tool 12-161 below. This won't put any strain through the crankshaft within the engine.
B34R
Active Member
If that's one month old, the pump, or something is definitely jamming.
Is there any end float on the pump, allowing it to move in and out?
comdek
Member
No, the axis of the pump is ok, but maybe with belt installed, the strength makes it to warp.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If the pump seizes while the engine is running, I'd have thought the belt would fail almost instantly. The pump spins at almost crank speed so seizure would generate huge amounts of heat very quickly. When an idler pulley seizes, belt failure is almost instantaneous. The water pump acts as the top idler so would cause the same symptoms as a failed idler. I'd personally be changing the belt and pump just to eliminate it.
