Cleaned the block with sandpaper 400 and 600 and decarb.

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Yes, crack was gone. :)

Before:
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After:
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I measured the block surface and head with a ruler, and theya are straight, not warped.
 
Did you measure the liners to make sure "they stand proud" meaning they are a little bit higher then the engine cylinder block? something around 0.10 mm to 0.12 mm (giving you metrics measures as you are in Brasil)


Good link on this: http://forums.mg-rover.org/12-mgf-mgtf-sponsored-mgfntfbitz/506914-liner-heights.html This is about the 4 cylinder engine, but the same liner principle applies.

The liners need to be very close in hight to + or - 0.01mm or gasket sealing problems can result.
The KV6 gaskets are MLS with a thermal filler/ adhesive applied. Hopefully yours are inside that tolerance.
 
Hello all,

On last week I reinstalled the cylinder head with new gasket and run 700km with no problems. :)
The coolant did not lower more and the temperature is around 99°C. The temp rises in climbs to 102°C and will go down to 99°C after a few seconds. Downhill drops to 96°C.
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Also fixes the automatic transmission (jatco).I had a problem when the gear 3rd to 4th where the engine revs. I replaced the solenoid N89 (Shift B) and there was no more trouble.

mHkD-f-T9SXUmjLxGmy-JKg.jpg


Fixed too the ECU Fan, changed the engine 12V DC, cost around $5 bucks in electronics store.

$_1.JPG
 
I had some problems with my Freelander V6 year ago the same like yours, first temperature sensor is burn and show wrong temperature, temperature displayed on the dashboard it is always in the middle, even as 110 ° C . Only after you connect the computer can see what is really for me to cook after replacing the sensor is ok. By that not triggering a fan

After a few months blocked my tee and stopped pumping water just everything cooked. It is also good to check all the hoses if there is somewhere blockage.

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The thermostat was cracked so I had to undress engine, meanwhile I replaced the water pump and thermostat. Water pump after the time started to let the seal.
Now its ok I don't have porblems with overheating.
 
The temp gauge stays in middle with the temp is in range 75ºC ~ 115ºC. At 120ºC the red light go on.
The MY04 (2004 year) have 2 temperature sensors, one in the block and another in bottom hose.

When make some service in coolant system, is good has an OBD scanner connected to read the temperature in realtime, because the gauge cheats a lot.

This tee was also obstructed with rust in my car.
 
Hello all,

On last week I reinstalled the cylinder head with new gasket and run 700km with no problems. :)
The coolant did not lower more and the temperature is around 99°C. The temp rises in climbs to 102°C and will go down to 99°C after a few seconds. Downhill drops to 96°C.


Also fixes the automatic transmission (jatco).I had a problem when the gear 3rd to 4th where the engine revs. I replaced the solenoid N89 (Shift B) and there was no more trouble.

Fixed too the ECU Fan, changed the engine 12V DC, cost around $5 bucks in electronics store.
Thanks for the update!

What brand of cylinder head gasket did you use? Did you change only one or both? Did you change any other gaskets?

The ECU fan, What made you look at it (as in what symptoms ? )

Martin
 
I used Britpart head gasket. Changed only the front head. The back head is very dificult to remove exaust bolts because the IRD is in the front.

The ECU FAN turns on when the temp sensor inside the E-Box reaches 35ºC. If the ECU module overheats, it lights up the MIL with error code of injection problems in cylinder 6. The TC light (Traction Control) lights too.
When running with the car for a while, after turn engine off you can hear the ECU FAN on for a few more seconds (not radiator fan).
 

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