ok, so it does make some sense to do it all at once.

i'm already feeling swamped with just the bearings though, so i think i'll leave the swivel ball for another day. Don't want to leave it too long though - who knows what damage the damn thing is causing :(
 
fishsponge said:
Thanks for the advice! :D

When you say I need sockets... which sockets precisely? And why don't I need them to do the actual replacement?

I don't have a complete set you see, and mine are made of such thick metal that I couldn't even undo the prop shaft with them...
Click to expand...

Think it's 14mm to take the flange off, wriggle it off, save shims to put back, screwdriver and hammer to sprise the tab on the lockwasher and you're in.

Even a knackered bearing will take up and be safe. It may be noisy but it will work ok. If not noisy when running and no play then it'll be fine.

isn't there a guide on here.....HEY BUSTERBUS
 
i only said torque cos it gives a torque reference in the manual...so thats what i followed
 
landowner said:
Think it's 14mm to take the flange off, wriggle it off, save shims to put back, screwdriver and hammer to sprise the tab on the lockwasher and you're in.

Even a knackered bearing will take up and be safe. It may be noisy but it will work ok. If not noisy when running and no play then it'll be fine.

isn't there a guide on here.....HEY BUSTERBUS
Click to expand...

ok, i do have a 14mm socket, so we're good there.

as for a bustersbus tutorial, the only one I can find is this one:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/rear-wheel-bearings-renewed-58851.html

These are the rear wheels, not the front ones though, and it's a defender, not a Discovery... does that matter?

Step 1 is different for a start, because I can't see the hub nuts without taking the wheel off (presumably)!
 
landowner said:
Try this..
Wheel Bearing replacement - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

you dont need to clamp brake pipe or remove caliper though, just look at haw to take big nut off but dont, just tighten it slightly to remove play then put ut back together.

You can renew the bearings if you wish when you tackle the swivel ball.
Click to expand...

that looks like one hell of a procedure... i do hope it's simpler in real life. quite hard to visualize everything in photo form, especially when you've never seen it before in real life.

Anyway... you said "just look at haw to take big nut off but dont, just tighten it slightly to remove play then put ut back together".

If i'm not supposed to just tighten it slightly to remove play and put it back together again, then how else do i adjust the bearings?

or are you saying i should not adjust bearings, I should always replace them?

...and if I simply renew the bearing when I do the swivel ball, how will I make them safe in the mean time?

have i mis-read part of your post?

Oh, and that post mentioned use of an angle grinder (which I don't have). presumably I could use a hacksaw too... which I also don't have.

should i add a hacksaw to my list as well now?

EDIT: I just finished reading that guide... and I have the biggest list of questions ever about the procedure in my head now. I won't put the questions down here, because they're all ridiculous. I'm sure it'll be easy, but that procedure has raised god knows how many issues and questions in my head!
 
Last edited:
fishsponge said:
that looks like one hell of a procedure... i do hope it's simpler in real life. quite hard to visualize everything in photo form, especially when you've never seen it before in real life.

Anyway... you said "just look at haw to take big nut off but dont, just tighten it slightly to remove play then put ut back together".

If i'm not supposed to just tighten it slightly to remove play and put it back together again, then how else do i adjust the bearings?

or are you saying i should not adjust bearings, I should always replace them?

...and if I simply renew the bearing when I do the swivel ball, how will I make them safe in the mean time?

have i mis-read part of your post?
Click to expand...


third picture down is all you need to go to...that's the hub nut that holds the bearing in place.

Think I didn't put it clear.

Take the wheel off
Take the rubber centre cover off
remove circlip and shims
then 14mm socket to undo the bolts that hold the cover on
prise / wriggle cover off
tap screwdriver with hammer behind the locking tab to prise it away from the big nut
hub nut spanner on big nut to tighten it.

The last one I did could be tightened by hand to take up the slack then tightened a bit with the hub nut spanner / tube spanner to finish taking the play up.

knock tab over when you're happy with it , it dont have to be megga tight as long as there is no play and it is free to turn.
put flange back on and tighten bolts , you will prob get away with the old gasket if you are going to see to it again soon, as log as it dont leak you're ok.
shims back on,
circlip back
rubber cover back
wheel back on
wash hands and have a brew.
 
Fish, tue prices I quoted on page 5/6 were for both hubs and swivels mate.

Also you will need a hammer and cold chisel to remove old bearing outer races.

AND you can change the swivel balls without removing the wheel bearings/hub, but it's far easier to do the job in one. I would buy 2x swivel rebuild KITS and 2x wheel bearing KITS and do the lot over a weekend.

It's all in Haynes and it talks you through step by step.

Really is the best way brother :)

Also, have you got a haynes manual?

It is specifically written for people who have never done it before, it tells you and shows you what to do. Read through, buy the tools you need, can't go wrong really.
 
Ah, ok.... so that's the procedure for adjusting the existing bearings, obviously.

Still seems a shame to have to buy £100 of tools just for this though... I'm sure I'll use them all again, bit surely it'd be cheaper to pay a garage for 20 mins labour! That'd cost £15!
 
Mr Noisy said:
Fish, tue prices I quoted on page 5/6 were for both hubs and swivels mate.

Also you will need a hammer and cold chisel to remove old bearing outer races.

AND you can change the swivel balls without removing the wheel bearings/hub, but it's far easier to do the job in one. I would buy 2x swivel rebuild KITS and 2x wheel bearing KITS and do the lot over a weekend.

It's all in Haynes and it talks you through step by step.

Really is the best way brother :)

Also, have you got a haynes manual?

It is specifically written for people who have never done it before, it tells you and shows you what to do. Read through, buy the tools you need, can't go wrong really.
Click to expand...

Yes, I do have the Haynes, but I'm broke. I can't afford £200 of parts and over £100 of tools to allow me to do both jobs. Adjusting or replacing the bearings is all I can afford and even that will still require £100 of tools.

I hate going to garages, but for the sake of 20 mins labour, I winder if they'd just tighten the bearings up for me :(
 
fishsponge said:
Yes, I do have the Haynes, but I'm broke. I can't afford £200 of parts and over £100 of tools to allow me to do both jobs. Adjusting or replacing the bearings is all I can afford and even that will still require £100 of tools.

I hate going to garages, but for the sake of 20 mins labour, I winder if they'd just tighten the bearings up for me :(
Click to expand...

FFS where did ya get that figure from 52mm socket is about £15 box spanner is about £10 that and Screwdriver, hammer and a pair of circlip pliers is all ya need..
 
fishsponge said:
Yes, I do have the Haynes, but I'm broke. I can't afford £200 of parts and over £100 of tools to allow me to do both jobs. Adjusting or replacing the bearings is all I can afford and even that will still require £100 of tools.

I hate going to garages, but for the sake of 20 mins labour, I winder if they'd just tighten the bearings up for me :(
Click to expand...

Think you'll find they charge an hour minimum:rolleyes:

Once the wheel is off it takes about 5 mins tops when you've done it once.:)
 
The £100 figure includes the torque wrench cost as mine is utterly useless. It really is.

Also, did ya see the whole list??

- 1x 606435 Hub nut spanner - for use with bar - front axle with ABS AND 1x metal rod to turn the hub nut spanner with (or will a short screwdriver be OK?) - ALTERNATIVELY, a 52mm deep socket.
- 2x STC4382G Hub bearing - front axle with ABS - Timken (OE)
- A tube/pot/bottle/tub of loctite (or whatever it comes in)
- Pot of some kind of grease if STC4382G Hub bearing doesn't come with any. does it come with grease? if not, buy some LM2 grease.
- Brake cleaner to clean out the hub.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar (600mm)
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (maybe... my current one is *very* inaccurate). 300nm ish about a 400mm long.
- 1x "stake washer", whatever that is. need to find part number.
- 1x External circlip pliers
- 1x frc3988 drive flange gasket. part number might be wrong.

That is all stuff I don't have... it all adds up, even if you leave out the new bearings...
 
fishsponge said:
The £100 figure includes the torque wrench cost as mine is utterly useless. It really is.

Also, did ya see the whole list??

- 1x 606435 Hub nut spanner - for use with bar - ( short screwdriver be OK?) - ALTERNATIVELY, a 52mm deep socket.

- 1x External circlip pliers
Click to expand...

pLUS
14MM socket
large screw driver
brew
 
If you're doing it cheap i reckon you need:

Jack
Wheel brace
14 socket and ratchet
Hammer and flatbladed screwdriver
Big pair of pipe grips, stilsons, adjustable spanner (or borrow a 52mm)

Done.
 
P.s.

Might aswell just tighten the bearings up then refit the whole axle with your 200 quits worth of parts when you've got the cash.
 
Take the wheel off and have a look
maybe just prise the rubber cap off
not too bad is it...?
remove circlip...you can always put it back if you change yer mind

take shims off
take 14mm bolts out of flange....you can always put em back if yer change yer mind
wriggle flange off and you are there.

knock the tab back on the washer carefully because you are going to reuse it unless it's split which it shouldn't be

now you can fiddle with the big nut and see how it adjusts.

when you have set it and tapped the tab washer back to stop the nut moving you can put it back together.

When putting the shims back on you may have to (will have to) pull the splined shaft out of the hub a bit to get the circlip back on

simples:)
 
OK, so i've decided to adjust them for the time being, at least.

Plus, I popped into the garage on the way home last night and asked "are these bearings safe to drive on?". He said "yes, but don't let it get any worse", of course. He then said "you can adjust these too, and yours aren't beyond adjustment".

So that's good.

I've therefore decided to buy either a 52mm socket or a hub nut spanner, a pair or circlip pliers, a 600mm 1/2" drive breaker bar, some loctite and some LM2 grease (just in case the bearings are empty).

I already have a jack, axle stands, and a few sockets (14mm should be fine). I also have some stilsons.

So... to adjust the bearings... IS THAT ALL I NEED? I'm going shopping at lunch time hopefully :D

I won't need a "stake" washer, or a drive flange gasket, or any oil seals of any kind...
 
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