Busters threads will tell you how to do it....and paddocks do a swivel seal kit. Normal torque wrench fone and sockets plus ring spanners...you need one of those to release the swivel from the axle case as a socket won't fit in the gap. You say you have a weekend...start early as you can cos they can be a bitch to take apart if the bolts have never been out.Soak the lot in wd well before hand.
 
Oh and there's nowt wrong with second hand swivels...you can see if they're ****ed and if they're ok just replace the seals
 
foss said:
Busters threads will tell you how to do it....and paddocks do a swivel seal kit. Normal torque wrench fone and sockets plus ring spanners...you need one of those to release the swivel from the axle case as a socket won't fit in the gap. You say you have a weekend...start early as you can cos they can be a bitch to take apart if the bolts have never been out.Soak the lot in wd well before hand.
Click to expand...

in my last post I wrote "ok, so the main problem is the bearings. the swivel ball is corroded to hell, but I guess that can wait.".

therefore, i'm gonna do the bearings, not the swivel. Also, every job that I have failed to achieve has been because i've been unable to get bolts undone, so it doesn't sound like i'm off to a good start if these bolts might be tough as well!

Anyway, the rest of my previous post still applies...
 
Another pointer...your caliper bolts will probably be 12 point heads (on the back face nearest the track rod)...a normal 6 side socket won't get them off...they are a 12mm I believe from memory.
 
sounds like i'm gonna get stuffed again then, to be honest...

the trouble is i need to be 100% certain that i have every single tool i'll need before i begin, because once i've started i will have no way of getting anywhere to buy more!

It's starting to sound like it's too risky again now...
 
Oh sorry...blackberry is annoying on the 'net!

The drive flange bolts are normally ok ... Put some loctite on when you put them back on.
 
If the bearing doesnt come with grease, buy a pot and get some brake cleaner to clean the old crap out of the hub.
Ref the spanner, personally I bought a 52mm deep socket and used it on my 1/2" drive breaker bar and then on my 1/2" torque wrench to tighten...
There are 2 nuts on the end of the shaft with a stake washer in between.You can reuse the washer, if youre careful when you remove it & dont knacker it unstaking it.
When reassembling, do the first nut up tight to seat the bearing, then back it off & then torque it up, otherwise it can end up overtightened & the bearing will last no time.
You'll also need external circlip pliers to remove the clip behind the dust cap.Behind the clip will be one or more washers.They are normally different thicknesses.You may find when you have replaced the bearing & the driveflange gasket (youll need 2 of those aswell, 1 per hub) that the circlip will not seat in the groove on the shaft.If so its because the new parts have no wear in them & are forcing the flange out further.That is fine...you may only need to use less washers when refitting, but use at least one.
As you refit the flange, it might push the shaft back into the hub so you cant see the circlip groove at all..you just have to keep doing it.I held the shaft out by putting a screwdriver in the groove and levering it gently to stop the hub drawing it back into the hub as i slid the flange back on.
 
Last edited:
OK, so I need the following, then... right?

- 1x 606435 Hub nut spanner - for use with bar - front axle with ABS AND 1x metal rod to turn the hub nut spanner with (or will a short screwdriver be OK?) - ALTERNATIVELY, a 52mm deep socket.
- 2x STC4382G Hub bearing - front axle with ABS - Timken (OE)
- A tube/pot/bottle/tub of loctite (or whatever it comes in)
- Pot of some kind of grease if STC4382G Hub bearing - front axle with ABS - Timken (OE) doesn't come with any. need to find out if it does or not!
- Brake cleaner to clean out the hub.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar (what length?)
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (maybe... my current one is *very* inaccurate)
- 1x "stake washer", whatever that is. no idea what size yet.
- 1x External circlip pliers
- 2x drive flange gasket (1 per hub)

I've put the new "stake washer" on the list, because although i'm generally careful with everything, I cannot risk it breaking because i'll be stuck at home until someone brings me a new one with no way of getting to work, to the shops etc...

You say "When reassembling, do the first nut up tight to seat the bearing, then back it off & then torque it up".

What torque setting?

as for the "drive flange gasket (youll need 2 of those aswell, 1 per hub)", why will I need two? i'm only doing 1 wheel...

Anyway... the shopping list is growing slowly, and becoming expensive (torque wrench and all...)
 
OK, so to replace the wheel bearings in the FRONT-RIGHT WHEEL ONLY I need the following, then... right?

- 1x 606435 Hub nut spanner - for use with bar - front axle with ABS AND 1x metal rod to turn the hub nut spanner with (or will a short screwdriver be OK?) - ALTERNATIVELY, a 52mm deep socket.
- 2x STC4382G Hub bearing - front axle with ABS - Timken (OE)
- A tube/pot/bottle/tub of loctite (or whatever it comes in)
- Pot of some kind of grease if STC4382G Hub bearing doesn't come with any. does it come with grease? if not, what type of grease do i need?
- Brake cleaner to clean out the hub.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar (what length?)
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (maybe... my current one is *very* inaccurate). what length & what torque range?
- 1x "stake washer", whatever that is. what size/part number?
- 1x External circlip pliers
- 1x drive flange gasket what part number?

I already have a jack, axle stands, lots of spanners, a few sockets (not many though), a few screwdrivers and a 40-50 year old torque wrench, which is very inaccurate.

ALSO: The first 52mm bearing nut should be tightened to 210nm before the 52mm lock nut goes on behind it.

Does everything look good? Is there anything missing from the list? Any answers for the stuff in red, or part numbers for the flanges, stake washer etc...?
 
Get LM2 Grease

Bar-600mm is fine

Torque Wrench- anything up to 300nm ish about a 400mm long

Washer & gasket numbers (frc3988 maybe)...no idea off top of my head

Ref the nut torque...without the torque wrench, tighten alot & loosen, then tighten with a standard ratchet wrench.Then add the washer, then add the second nut...the second one is the one to torque with the torque wrench
 
OK, so to replace the wheel bearings in the FRONT-RIGHT WHEEL ONLY I need the following, then... right?

- 1x 606435 Hub nut spanner - for use with bar - front axle with ABS AND 1x metal rod to turn the hub nut spanner with (or will a short screwdriver be OK?) - ALTERNATIVELY, a 52mm deep socket.
- 2x STC4382G Hub bearing - front axle with ABS - Timken (OE)
- A tube/pot/bottle/tub of loctite (or whatever it comes in)
- Pot of some kind of grease if STC4382G Hub bearing doesn't come with any. does it come with grease? if not, buy some LM2 grease.
- Brake cleaner to clean out the hub.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar (600mm)
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (maybe... my current one is *very* inaccurate). 300nm ish about a 400mm long.
- 1x frc3988 "stake washer", whatever that is. part number might be wrong.
- 1x External circlip pliers
- 1x frc3988 drive flange gasket. part number might be wrong.

I already have a jack, axle stands, lots of spanners, a few sockets (not many though), a few screwdrivers and a 40-50 year old torque wrench, which is very inaccurate.

IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I NEED????? anything??? I only have one shot at this, remember!:frusty:

ALSO: Ref the nut torque...without the torque wrench, tighten alot & loosen, then tighten with a standard ratchet wrench.Then add the washer, then add the second nut...the second one is the one to torque with the torque wrench. The second 52mm bearing nut (the lock nut) should be tightened to 210nm.

Does everything look good? Is there anything missing from the list? Any answers for the stuff in red, or part numbers for the flanges, stake washer etc...?
 
well, someone advised that for the sake of £12 I should just replace them.

It's not quite £12 any more though... although i'll need all of the above tools even to adjust them, right?
 
it all looks good, thats how i did mine & they are all fine...the part number is for the gasket.

landowner...it can but f you torque it too hard on the first nut, the wheel wont turn
 
foss said:
it all looks good, thats how i did mine & they are all fine...the part number is for the gasket.
Click to expand...

Thanks, foss! :D

So to replace the wheel bearings in the FRONT-RIGHT WHEEL ONLY I need the following, then...

- 1x 606435 Hub nut spanner - for use with bar - front axle with ABS AND 1x metal rod to turn the hub nut spanner with (or will a short screwdriver be OK?) - ALTERNATIVELY, a 52mm deep socket.
- 2x STC4382G Hub bearing - front axle with ABS - Timken (OE)
- A tube/pot/bottle/tub of loctite (or whatever it comes in)
- Pot of some kind of grease if STC4382G Hub bearing doesn't come with any. does it come with grease? if not, buy some LM2 grease.
- Brake cleaner to clean out the hub.
- 1/2" drive breaker bar (600mm)
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (maybe... my current one is *very* inaccurate). 300nm ish about a 400mm long.
- 1x "stake washer", whatever that is. need to find part number.
- 1x External circlip pliers
- 1x frc3988 drive flange gasket. part number might be wrong.

I already have a jack, axle stands, lots of spanners, a few sockets (not many though), a few screwdrivers and a 40-50 year old torque wrench, which is very inaccurate.

If anyone spots anything else i need, please let me know! I only have one shot at this, remember!:frusty:

ALSO: Ref the nut torque...without the torque wrench, tighten alot & loosen, then tighten with a standard ratchet wrench.Then add the washer, then add the second nut...the second one is the one to torque with the torque wrench. The second 52mm bearing nut (the lock nut) should be tightened to 210nm.

foss said:
landowner...it can but f you torque it too hard on the first nut, the wheel wont turn
Click to expand...

Isn't that the case regardless of whether I'm adjusting the existing bearings or putting in new ones though?

Also, do the bearings need to be touched when the swivel ball is replaced, or can they be done completely independently?
 
foss said:
it all looks good, thats how i did mine & they are all fine...the part number is for the gasket.

landowner...it can but f you torque it too hard on the first nut, the wheel wont turn
Click to expand...


I've never torqued up a wheel bearing yet and I've been doin em for 45 years.

Tighten the big nut until the wheel/hub goes a bit tight to turn then back it off a bit until it turns freely with no play.
Spin the wheel/hub back and two and then do it again.
Then if wheel free to turn and no play and bearing dosn't feel rough when you turn the wheel/hub then lock it up with the washer and put the other bits back on.
It's not hard to do, you get a feel for when it's ok, ...no play and free to turn without binding or stiffness.
You only need circlip pliers (cheap), . sockets, hub nut spanner, screwdriver, hammer and a gasket. think that's all.:)
 
landowner said:
You only need circlip pliers (cheap), . sockets, hub nut spanner, screwdriver, hammer and a gasket. think that's all.:)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice! :D

When you say I need sockets... which sockets precisely? And why don't I need them to do the actual replacement?

I don't have a complete set you see, and mine are made of such thick metal that I couldn't even undo the prop shaft with them...
 
yes, same regardless...

and youll need to take the whole lot off again to do the balls as he hub needs to come off..you can leave the bearings in but they might fall out if youre not careful!
 
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