OH MY DAYS is this thread still going???!!!!

Everyones like why this why that...sponge has had about six peoples versions of how they did a job & few have used different tools so he changed his mind each time!!!

you could have done the job 10 times over by now

foss said:

OH MY DAYS is this thread still going???!!!!

Everyones like why this why that...sponge has had about six peoples versions of how they did a job & few have used different tools so he changed his mind each time!!!

you could have done the job 10 times over by now

Click to expand...

I'm with you Paul, I got very old trying to help here

davek0974 said:

I'm glad the final outcome was to just tighten up rather than strip and rebuild. Prepping and doing the rebuild with no experience or tools in a hurry was a request for trouble in my view.

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That was my view too. I now know that it's not much of an emergency at all, as my local garage said it was safe to drive as long as it doesn't get any worse.

davek0974 said:

I can't see what the breaker bar was for though??

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The breaker bar is for anything that it's needed for. Perhaps the wheel nuts, perhaps something else later in life. Ya never know when you'll need a breaker bar!

davek0974 said:

My only input is to make sure the bearing is not overtightened when done, seating bearings is sort of a knack rather than just do it up, tighten the first nut firmly while turning the hub, then back off and retighten hand tight, the hub should turn fairly easy now but not spin. Fit lock washer and locknut and lock the nut, check the hub still turns ok as it can tighten up. When happy, bend over the lock washer to front and back nuts (this is vital) or they can come loose.

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Thanks for the added advice the more the better (probably)!

You've probably guessed i'm a paranoid old sod (despite being only 28), so i'm likely to check it very thoroughly indeed!

davek0974 said:

A couple or three mm of wobble at the wheel rim is likely ok, it should sound ok and definately not gritty or notchy when the wheel is turned. Always check the hub for overheating after a test drive, slightly warm is ok, hot is not, let it cool then readjust bearing as it's probably too tight. Once you have done one, youll wonder what the fuss was about.

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It's interesting that you say a couple or three mm of wobble at the wheel rim is likely ok... I have that at least... possibly 4 or 5mm at most. There is also no grinding when I spin the wheel whatsoever. It's really smooth and spins as freely as the other wheels do (i.e. it does stop, but slows down gradually). That probably explains why nothing has fallen apart yet.

Also, since the weekend, I've not heard the scraping noise at all. In fact, I only noticed the scraping noise for a few days after I had new front brakes. The reason it's not scraping now is probably that the new brakes have bedded themselves in and when they make contact due to play in the bearings, it's just silent. When they were new, the scraping was audible because they hadn't bedded themselves in yet.

The conclusion I make, therefore, is that these wheel bearings have probably had play in them for absolutely ages! The bearings were probably loose before I had the new brake pads fitted, but I didn't notice because the old brakes were making no noise. Maybe it's been like this since I bought it 4 months ago. Who knows?

The other good thing about this is that if they have been like this for ages, and they're not that bad now, once they're adjusted properly, they'll hopefully last for years! (until the MOT in May, anyway)

davek0974 said:

BTW the worst part I found was getting the damn caliper off, those bolts were tight! I had a 12" socket wrench and a 24" bit of pipe on the handle of that!!

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I shouldn't need to take the caliper off to adjust them though... as far as I know. I suspect I need to remove the caliper to actually replace the bearings though.

In any case, that shouldn't be a problem for me because I just had new front brakes, so they should be nice and loose and I already have flexible stainless steel brake pipes due to the 2" lift

davek0974 said:

I hope it all goes well.

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So do i! Thanks for your support!!

foss said:

OH MY DAYS is this thread still going???!!!!

Everyones like why this why that...sponge has had about six peoples versions of how they did a job & few have used different tools so he changed his mind each time!!!

you could have done the job 10 times over by now

Click to expand...

AND

thebiglad said:

I'm with you Paul, I got very old trying to help here

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I'm also surprised that this thread had become so long. I know many people have posted the same procedure, but the procedure isn't the hard part for me - it's developing a complete set of tools which I need to buy before I begin, so I don't end up stranded on my drive for ever more unable to get to a shop to buy the missing tool or part!

That's why this thread has become so long.

I'm very grateful for all the help... really I am, and I'm going to tackle it this weekend having bought supposedly everything I now need!

The main problem was that every time I post my latest list of stuff I need to buy, there was always something that someone suggested I add to it, or remove from it, or substitute for something else.

Maybe there are too many opinions... but I'm certainly not the one to choose the completely 100% valid and correct opinion among the hundreds, because I'm clueless (as you well know!).

Make sure you report back after doing the job

Oh I will

foss said:

OH MY DAYS is this thread still going???!!!!

Everyones like why this why that...sponge has had about six peoples versions of how they did a job & few have used different tools so he changed his mind each time!!!

you could have done the job 10 times over by now

Click to expand...

thebiglad said:

I'm with you Paul, I got very old trying to help here

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HAHAHAHA! Ah kept out of this one
Last time ah got involved, ended up goin' round in circles!

You might aswell get some grease fish, if you can get some in there then go for it.

If you take the nuts off altogether then you can remove the outer bearing so you could shove some in.

LM/lithium/multipurpose grease = all same thing.

Best of luck mate.

Dooza favour and get someone to take pics when youre doing it

fishsponge said:

The main problem was that every time I post my latest list of stuff I need to buy, there was always something that someone suggested I add to it, or remove from it, or substitute for something else.

Maybe there are too many opinions... but I'm certainly not the one to choose the completely 100% valid and correct opinion among the hundreds, because I'm clueless (as you well know!).

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Its exactly that, these are opinions, there are many different ways of baking a cake, many different ways of doing bearings etc, we all have our own little tricks up our sleeves, picked up over the years.

Get 'er done, you wont regeret it

Get 'er done, they get 'er done after it - then you definitely won't regret it

bustersbus said:

HAHAHAHA! Ah kept out of this one
Last time ah got involved, ended up goin' round in circles!

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Wisdom born of experience - can't be beaten.

Well... I'm making good progress despite the rain that started half way through!!

2 questions...

How tight should the locknut be? It's a 300Tdi disco with ABS. I've already been told 210Nm, but the guy at the landy dealer this morning said just nip it up by hand otherwise it'll tighten the bearing nut behind it at the same time. He said the 210Nm was for the Td5, which only has one nut.

If I do that though, won't they both just come undone at together because the lock washer kinda turns them into a single nut?

Secondly, what torque should the 5 hub bolts be done up to?

Feel free to give me a ring on oh, seven, eight, double-one, eight, oh, double-three, double-seven if you wish!! (I've written it like that so my number isn't posted around the web completely openly!!)

Thanks again!

fishsponge said:

Well... I'm making good progress despite the rain that started half way through!!

2 questions...

How tight should the locknut be? It's a 300Tdi disco with ABS. I've already been told 210Nm, but the guy at the landy dealer this morning said just nip it up by hand otherwise it'll tighten the bearing nut behind it at the same time. He said the 210Nm was for the Td5, which only has one nut.

If I do that though, won't they both just come undone at together because the lock washer kinda turns them into a single nut?

Secondly, what torque should the 5 hub bolts be done up to?

Feel free to give me a ring on oh, seven, eight, double-one, eight, oh, double-three, double-seven if you wish!! (I've written it like that so my number isn't posted around the web completely openly!!)

Thanks again!

Click to expand...

When doing up the first of the two hub nuts you need to use a sense of feel, rather than a torque wrench. Incidently the 210n/m is definitely NOT correctly for a D1 - it's for a D2 hub.

So, the process is this: Whilst turning the wheel snub up the hub nut until the wheel can't turn any more, then back it off until the wheel turns but there is no play.( The idea is that you want to settle the new bearing but not crush it.) Now snug up the nut again until the wheel turning starts to grip just a little bit, that's the setting.

Check again to ensure no play, then fit the locking washer and locking nut and tighten snugs ly but without crushing it. Check again that the wheel still turns and there is no play, then bend over the locking washer first to lock the 1st nut then bend over at a different side of the washer to lock the second.

When you fit the washer you will see that it's centre whole is shaped so it locks onto the threaded shaft so it can't turn. After you have done a couple of hundred miles check it again.

Thanks for that!

Secondly though... what torque should the 5 hub bolts be done up to?

right... i looked that up online - 65Nm.

Anyway, it's all done now! there was no play in the bearings, the wheel turned as it should, the lock nuts were tightened, the lock washer was hammered over in both directions, everything put back together!

Just come back from my 6 mile test drive... it's all loose again, just like it was before. It's as if I haven't touched it

Bugger.

I guess I ought to see if the lock nut has come undone...

how much play was there in the inner locknut? how far did you have to nip the bugger up? and are you doing both fronts or just the one?

i took me ages to finally get the right setting on mine but each time i did the strip and tighten routine i got faster and faster at it, i reckon i could do one as quick as most people change a wheel now

just persevere mate you will get it right today, or you will end up changing em for new ones next weekend, either way you now know its not a job you need to be scared of.

Pol

the other thing to check is that the lock washer has the locating tang in the centre, and is in the corresponding slot in the drive shaft, because if not, both nuts can turn.

right... all done for the second time! Took about 20 mins this time

The 52mm nuts were loose as I suspected. They were' locked together well, but hadn't been tightened up enough, obviously.

This time, i've tightened them up more and the wheel still spins as freely as it should, so time for 6 mile test drive number 2!

nope... same again. Same play as before. Plus, it squeaks now slightly every so often.

I would tackle it a third time, but I think it's kinda pointless - I did a much better job of it second time around - tightened the first washer about 60% of "maximum tightness" that I could achieve by holding the hub nut spanner just in my hands. I then put the lock washer on (and it did have a section that locks it to the shaft), , tightened up the lock washer as tight as I physically could by holding the hub nut spanner, and then nipped it up a bit more by putting a screwdriver through it.

I then hammered the lock washer over in both directions until it was really tight and none of it could move.

Put the rest of it back together, put the wheel on. No play whatsoever, but it spun as freely as it should.

Got back from test drive, and back to square one again... any suggestions?!? cos i'm out of ideas...

noo bearings and oil seals - take the hub orf and visually check everything.