fishsponge
New Member
ah, ok... so i might do that next time.
is there anything wrong with simply cranking it over non-stop until fuel starts flowing out of the bleed screw though?
That's what I did, you see... and need to know if i've potentially damaged anything!
is there anything wrong with simply cranking it over non-stop until fuel starts flowing out of the bleed screw though?
That's what I did, you see... and need to know if i've potentially damaged anything!
fishsponge
New Member
ok, fair enough... i have two batteries, so that shouldn't be a problem. it only took 15 seconds or so anyway 
good to know no harm has come of it. let's call it less than "best practice"!
good to know no harm has come of it. let's call it less than "best practice"!
fishsponge
New Member
ok, so on to the next job!
While I was under the car, I noticed that the "rear propshaft rubber coupling" (i think this is known as the donut/doughnut) was slightly perished.
It looked generally ok, but there were a couple of cracks in it, maybe 3mm deep or so.
Also, I noticed that where the rear propshaft enters the rear diff, there was a slight oil leak. Nothing major, but may as well sort it at the same time.
So... regarding the "rear propshaft rubber coupling", it's the rubber thing with 6 holes in it, which appears to transmit drive to the rear diff from the prop shaft.
God knows why the entire weight of the vehicle, with potentially 3 tonnes of caravan behind it, on a steep hill combined with the power of your foot to the floor trying to pull away should be transmitted through a single piece of rubber... seems like a really bad design choice, but i'm sure there's a reason. Someone please tell me if there is!
Secondly, is this really the thing known as a donut/doughnut?
Thirdly, how bad does this have to be to warrant replacing it?
Fourthly, would you say it was a safety-related item? Surely the worst that should happen if it fails is me dragging the prop shaft along behind me, with it still attached at the front, right?
While I was under the car, I noticed that the "rear propshaft rubber coupling" (i think this is known as the donut/doughnut) was slightly perished.
It looked generally ok, but there were a couple of cracks in it, maybe 3mm deep or so.
Also, I noticed that where the rear propshaft enters the rear diff, there was a slight oil leak. Nothing major, but may as well sort it at the same time.
So... regarding the "rear propshaft rubber coupling", it's the rubber thing with 6 holes in it, which appears to transmit drive to the rear diff from the prop shaft.
God knows why the entire weight of the vehicle, with potentially 3 tonnes of caravan behind it, on a steep hill combined with the power of your foot to the floor trying to pull away should be transmitted through a single piece of rubber... seems like a really bad design choice, but i'm sure there's a reason. Someone please tell me if there is!
Secondly, is this really the thing known as a donut/doughnut?
Thirdly, how bad does this have to be to warrant replacing it?
Fourthly, would you say it was a safety-related item? Surely the worst that should happen if it fails is me dragging the prop shaft along behind me, with it still attached at the front, right?
Last edited:
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
replace it it will aalways be in worse condition than it looks,it gives somedampening to drive system,depends how you spell doughnut,it dosent take entire wieght as front axle has drive too
GRATCH
HUGE MEMBER
1. Rubber damps the shock of turning.
2. Yes.
3. Depends how brave you are (see 4.)
4. You wont just be dragging it on the floor. You do know that propshafts rotate, driven by the gearbox? It will probably do it's best to join you in the cabin space- alternating with beating the **** out of the road and each chassis member in turn.
I would advise taking clean underwear with you on each trip.
2. Yes.
3. Depends how brave you are (see 4.)
4. You wont just be dragging it on the floor. You do know that propshafts rotate, driven by the gearbox? It will probably do it's best to join you in the cabin space- alternating with beating the **** out of the road and each chassis member in turn.
I would advise taking clean underwear with you on each trip.
fishsponge
New Member
OK, so it's yet another ASAP item...
when will these ASAP items end?!?!?
Do I drive it to work next week or take it off the road again and try to get lifts to and from work from other people or go public transport... I think i'll keep driving it but not floor it. It's putting it under load that will cause it to fall apart, not spinning it at high speed.
Trouble is... there is no money left this month - in fact, i'm already over again! how annoying.
when will these ASAP items end?!?!?
Do I drive it to work next week or take it off the road again and try to get lifts to and from work from other people or go public transport... I think i'll keep driving it but not floor it. It's putting it under load that will cause it to fall apart, not spinning it at high speed.
Trouble is... there is no money left this month - in fact, i'm already over again! how annoying.
fishsponge
New Member
ok, so i've been searching high and low for the parts i'll need... to replace the doughnut, is this all i'll need:
TVF100010G - Coupling Kit :: LRDirect
or will i need nuts and bolts as well? if so, which nuts and bolts? i can't find any way of discovering that info.
As for tools, presumably, my breaker bar, torque wrench and socket set is all i'll need, right?
TVF100010G - Coupling Kit :: LRDirect
or will i need nuts and bolts as well? if so, which nuts and bolts? i can't find any way of discovering that info.
As for tools, presumably, my breaker bar, torque wrench and socket set is all i'll need, right?
Last edited:
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
just coupling unless bolts damaged
fishsponge
New Member
hmm... that good ol' dilemma again! lol
if I get some of the bolts out, and they're knackered, i'm then stuck at home until the new bolts arrive from an online supplier, unable to get to work etc... so I ought to buy the bolts as well, sadly, just in case.
any idea which nuts and bolts i'll need?
also, is that coupling I linked to the correct one for a 1997 Disco 1 with ABS?
if I get some of the bolts out, and they're knackered, i'm then stuck at home until the new bolts arrive from an online supplier, unable to get to work etc... so I ought to buy the bolts as well, sadly, just in case.
any idea which nuts and bolts i'll need?
also, is that coupling I linked to the correct one for a 1997 Disco 1 with ABS?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
no you wll be able to see damage from prop yoke hitting them if they look allright they will be allright there is only one disco 1coupling
fishsponge
New Member
What I mean is if I take the bolts out and realise they're knackered I then can't drive my car until I have new bolts, which means I'll be stuck at home fir days!
Therefore, I need to buy the bolts just in case, sadly.
To ask my other questions again...
any idea which nuts and bolts i'll need?
And, I realise the disco 1 only has one coupling, but is that the right coupling for a disco 1?
Therefore, I need to buy the bolts just in case, sadly.
To ask my other questions again...
any idea which nuts and bolts i'll need?
And, I realise the disco 1 only has one coupling, but is that the right coupling for a disco 1?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
coupling right ,bolts will be okay its head of bolts that can get damaged wont hurt even if they are
fishsponge
New Member
Cool...
Now... what about the oil leak on the rear diff at the point where the propshaft goes in?
Which oil seal is that one and what will I need to replace it? Also, what is the procedure?
Now... what about the oil leak on the rear diff at the point where the propshaft goes in?
Which oil seal is that one and what will I need to replace it? Also, what is the procedure?
fishsponge
New Member
cheers, GRATCH!!
Just for reference, here's a couple of pics...
Doughnut:
Pinion oil seal:
How bad would ya say the doughnut really is... it certainly needs replacing, but surely a brand new one would look like that after a year or two, wouldn't it?!? You can see the doughnut in both pictures, in case you didn't realise
Also, I understand that changing the pinion oil seal isn't a tough job, but can be annoying... who has some experience of this? I've read the guides and procedures for how to do it on the web, and there's talk of bearings, pre-load, putting the seal in so it's in *just* the right position, etc, etc, etc... the guides I've read basically make it sound like it's more of a job for someone with experience rather than a fool-proof "impossible-to-get-wrong" job!
Oh, and one place i've asked for a price guide - £70 including parts & labour, but excluding VAT. Awaiting a call back from my other local place (just for comparison as to whether I attempt it myself).
Just for reference, here's a couple of pics...
Doughnut:
Pinion oil seal:
How bad would ya say the doughnut really is... it certainly needs replacing, but surely a brand new one would look like that after a year or two, wouldn't it?!? You can see the doughnut in both pictures, in case you didn't realise
Also, I understand that changing the pinion oil seal isn't a tough job, but can be annoying... who has some experience of this? I've read the guides and procedures for how to do it on the web, and there's talk of bearings, pre-load, putting the seal in so it's in *just* the right position, etc, etc, etc... the guides I've read basically make it sound like it's more of a job for someone with experience rather than a fool-proof "impossible-to-get-wrong" job!
Oh, and one place i've asked for a price guide - £70 including parts & labour, but excluding VAT. Awaiting a call back from my other local place (just for comparison as to whether I attempt it myself).
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
seal needs to be filled with vaseline or such to hold garter spring in and tapped in below face of diff case ,t goes i as far as it will, it sits upto ledge dont worry about preload it has shims in so just retighten wont effect pinion, your doughnut is ****ed ,your bolts okay will go again
paul fletcher
New Member
If Jeremy Beadle wasn't dead I'd be really suspicious....
