you said dough nut was britpart,you only need dough nut and seal ,angus is a make of seal ,frc8220 or ftc5258 depends on what type of mud flange is on diff flange ,ftc5258 fits both frc8220 only fits earlier,you could fit new bolts if you want but in my experinence you shouldnt need to i recondition land rover transmissions for a living so i can say with some expertise,britpart do genuine parts from landrover ,oem parrts same make as land rover use and pattern parts some of which are dubious quality but to say britpart parts are **** persay is obviously wrong,most people in the trade use all three suppliers but use the oem parts unless pattern known to be good and alot are
 
thanks for the reply, jamesmartin!

So in summary, britpart aren't necessarily crap - just depends what you get from them.

Also, on the basis that i'd like to have new nuts and bolts anyway (in case I have to cut one of them off, for example), are the parts below and the quantities correct?

fishsponge said:
1x TVF100010B COUPLING (YOKE ONLY) | 26.32 HARDY SPICER
and
6x FTC4043 - Bolt - Propshaft Rubber Coupling
and
6x NV112041L - Oval Locking Nut
and
6x FTC4044 - M12 Form A Washer Plain

Subtotal: £31.15

OR:

1x TVF100010GB Prop Coupling Incl. Bolts-Oem for Land Rover

Subtotal: £26.42
Click to expand...

Also, would you go for the coupling and bolts separately (for £31.15) or buy the combined "kit" (for £26.42)? I guess it doesn't really matter, but i'm completely clueless... :confused::):confused::):confused:

As for the pinion oil seals, it' good to know that "ANGUS" is simply a make rather than something specific. They seem a *lot* more expensive than the other ones though (£12.11 vs £3.64)... are they much better and worth buying?

Finally... my last question again...

fishsponge said:
One last question... one of the Allmakes doughnuts says is comes with "Bearings and Bolts". A doughnut doesn't need bearings, does it?!?!?
Click to expand...

Thanks again! :D
 
i would get complete kit ,cheaper seal will do g on the end of part number means genuine part b for bolt kit, i think they mean bush in end of prop but you wont need it
 
ftc5258 is the one you need they fit identically but ftc5258 can be pushed slightly further in to allow for later mud shield
 
the thing is.......... i've been told by one person that it depends on my chassis number, and by another person that it depends on the axle number and type.

I was then told by yet another person that it depends what's already in there - i.e. I won't know what to replace it with until I take the old one out.

And you are, of course, telling me that I only need FTC5258 and buying FRC8220 is perhaps pointless. :D

Given that FRC8220 is only £1.31 though, I think i'll buy it just in case.

It's not that I don't trust you... I do, but i've had so many damn opinions that for the sake of £1.31, I may as well get both and at least I can replace like for like if the other sort is on there.

As for adding a mud shield, I'm never going to do that, and on that basis presumably I could/should fit FRC8220, right?
 
i know your dilema but i do actually rebuild them for a living and the difference is only that the lter seal ftc5258 is slightly thinner so sits slightlt further in housing to allow for later mud shield,mud shield is metal disc just behind diff flange its already fitted,its the bit that stops you seeing seal with flange fitted,but yes get both and check and you will have learned something that the others that have advised you dont know ,what the difference is,and why they changed the seal
 
OK, so the parts arrived! :)

Two questions...

1) the doughnut is in a Britpart bag, but has GKN molded into the rubber. *confused*... :confused::confused::confused: - have I got a good one or a bad one?

2) Along with the doughnut there is a metal cylinder (maybe 1 inch long, 1 inch diameter) with a rubber cylinder inside it. What's that for??
 
britpart are wholesalers so will have thier packaging unless stated lr provided gkn will be oem,so good one pattern have no markings ,bush goes into rear of prop shaft,its not essential to change it unless other is ragged
 
cool... thanks for that. hopefully i'll get it changed this weekend, with a bit of luck! :)

Another thing... if I change the diff pinion oil seal, i'm guessing all the diff oil will pour out (i should probably drain it first). It was topped up only 1,000 miles ago, but not changed.

Drain and put back in, or replace?? If replace, what oil do i need to buy, and can I buy it in just the right quantity for a rear diff??
 
no diff seal and brg are above oil level but get fed by been splashed ,the maim reason thats usually first brg to go, dont forget to pack rear of seal with vaseline /grease or such to hold garter spring on cos you cant always tell its come off ,i do a fair few that people have done themselves blaming cheap **** parts but fitted badly,wont seal without spring
 
thanks for the advice... i'm attending a "maintenance day" soon, where I plan on tackling it with many experienced mechanics and land rover owners around :)

just want to make sure I turn up with enough parts! The only part i've bought to do the pinion oil seal with is the oil seal itself (both types) - no oil, nothing else...
 
Spring? genuine ones don't have them now but has a compersite materal ring instead, cheepes may still do though :(.
 

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both seals appear to have a spring in them, wrapped around the outside of the inside lip, if that makes sense... sound about right?

oh, and both my pinion oil seals are Bearmach.

anything else i'll need?
 
yes thet are right thats the spring that needs holding in place if you tap it in rather than press as i would in workshop,your seals will be fine and discool your seal is showling outer face with the dirt stopping part of seal not inside oil stopping parts with spring
 
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