Thanks Singvogel, I seen this one is this ok / correct Landrover Freelander EGR TD4 Bypass kit Stainless Stell | eBay.
'The engine bit' this is the black plactic duct i would remove ? the engine itself do i not clean is this right?, and again thanks for your help
'The engine bit' this is the black plactic duct i would remove ? the engine itself do i not clean is this right?, and again thanks for your help
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's the very one I bought a long time ago now - but I see the seller still can't spell 'steel'.
Yes, the inlet manifold/ducting is a plastic material and yes you can remove it for cleaning if it's heavily gunged up. I wouldn't try cleaning any more / any further.
S.
Hi, Its been a long time since I posted, I only just got another Freelander. 2004 TD4 auto, black, only 62000km. I drove it 1400km home to Adelaide from Sydney, over a third of the way across a continent. Anyway in regards to EGR blanking, the reason why they gum up is pressurisation of the crankcase and ingress of lovely black engine oil into the inlet via egr, turbo seals etc. I found this out on arrival back home having a look to find where the air filter was (well who would have thought of hiding it there?) too much oil for my liking in the pipes, further invetigation found thick black gunk throughout egr valve, piping, and inlet manifold. Lots of dismantling, degreasing and presure cleaning later reassembly, now it's all clean. Culprit was a severely clogged up PCV filter, the old one is cleaned but a new one on order (recommend replace every 12 months.) EGR will no longer gum up, car starts and runs beautiful. next I think I will check catalytic converter for obstruction and the rest of the exhaust. I might even pull out the intercooler and clean the oil out. Blocked PCV would explain why people complain about intercoolers blowing.
Anyone heard about transmission coolers going?
Anyone heard about transmission coolers going?
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
not heard about trans coolers going,but there is a rumour that the doors fall off if they get wet.:smokin::bolt::behindsofa:
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
Rumour is false, it bucketed down most of the way from Sydney and it stayed in one piece!
:nopics::nopics:
I have just read thru all 35 pages with great interest as my 03 facelift is a bit down on power I feel. So I popped outside to blank off the vacuum hose while I wait for my new stainless EGR bypass to arrive. I pulled the vacuum pipe off the EGR and I found myself with about 6 inches of hose in my hand attached to nothing. I have had a good look but could not see where the other end is supposed to be attached. I have read that there is a 'T' piece somewhere but I have not been able to find it, does anybody have a photograph of it's location? so that I can blank it off properly.
I have also ordered a set of silicon hoses as the intercooler ones has gone soft and misshapen due to some oil being in the system.
I've only owned the car for a week so I'm starting my list of jobs to do by reading thru this forum for anything that will help the longevity of my ownership.
Sorry guys, I did not look hard enough, there is a photograph on page 14 of this thread.
I have also ordered a set of silicon hoses as the intercooler ones has gone soft and misshapen due to some oil being in the system.
I've only owned the car for a week so I'm starting my list of jobs to do by reading thru this forum for anything that will help the longevity of my ownership.
Sorry guys, I did not look hard enough, there is a photograph on page 14 of this thread.
Last edited:
hi
Just had the EGR blanking kit fitted (2001 td4) and replaced crankcase breather filter and Turbo vent filter (Rutts 4x4).
plus fitted performance air filter (good buy at 25 quid, Britpart)
All in cost me total of 64 quid and peace of mind ... : )
Can someone tell me if the turbo filter shold connect to anyting?? : /
Just had the EGR blanking kit fitted (2001 td4) and replaced crankcase breather filter and Turbo vent filter (Rutts 4x4).
plus fitted performance air filter (good buy at 25 quid, Britpart)
All in cost me total of 64 quid and peace of mind ... : )
Can someone tell me if the turbo filter shold connect to anyting?? : /
crockett007
Active Member
Hi T4LOY,
no, it should be left to the atmosphere.
I've just cleaned my inlet manifold (Holy crap it was caked with oil!), changed the recently replaced crankcase breather filter for a bmw oil separator..... you'd be surprised at how much oil is captured by the 'loo roll' type filter in only 3 weeks, it was saturated.
Changed the turbo vent filter.
Fitted the Stainless EGR blanking plate, and took the FL on a 150 mile round trip to Gatwick. When the traffic got above 15 mph (!) it felt more responsive, and I sometimes forgot it was a diesel.
Just waiting for the silicone intercooler hoses to come through, get them fitted and I'll be happy......... for a while. I still have a door lock solenoid to replace, the VCU to replace, the slight water leak in the rear to sort, and a couple of other niggly things, and it's all good!
no, it should be left to the atmosphere.
I've just cleaned my inlet manifold (Holy crap it was caked with oil!), changed the recently replaced crankcase breather filter for a bmw oil separator..... you'd be surprised at how much oil is captured by the 'loo roll' type filter in only 3 weeks, it was saturated.
Changed the turbo vent filter.
Fitted the Stainless EGR blanking plate, and took the FL on a 150 mile round trip to Gatwick. When the traffic got above 15 mph (!) it felt more responsive, and I sometimes forgot it was a diesel.
Just waiting for the silicone intercooler hoses to come through, get them fitted and I'll be happy......... for a while. I still have a door lock solenoid to replace, the VCU to replace, the slight water leak in the rear to sort, and a couple of other niggly things, and it's all good!
Just waiting for the silicone intercooler hoses to come through, get them fitted and I'll be happy
I spoke to DPH yesterday (3-7-12) and as off yesterday they can now make the intercooler to turbo hose. I have ordered a full set of silicon hoses to go with my stainless steel EGR bypass and BMW crank case filter I will be fitting next week.
Last edited:
crockett007
Active Member
Must say it seems to have made a difference fitting the bypass and Oil Separator, but because I'm running it in mondo mode, I'll have to wait until August / September, when the new VCU is fitted, to give it a full appraisal.
Update: Hoses fitted today, just before the British Grand Prix. Upon revving, there isn't as much swelling as the old rubber hoses. Again, this will need appraisal in a years time, to see if it's the same.
UPDATE: went to Halfords,picked up a 3mm hose connector, filled it with glue, let it set, cut the vacuum pipe the other side of the EGR solenoid and inserted it................ 'duck' noise gone. looks neat too.
Last edited:
well after reading and being skeptical about the differance a pice of pipe would make to the landy i took the plunge and bought the brit part kit which had the egr valve, jubily clips and silicone hoses (nothing to block the vacum pipe with low but a bolt has sorted that problem). had a few splits in the original hoses so silicone was the logical upgrade and thought i should try the egr blanking pipe and what a differance the landy definatly pulls better and now i wont have to clean out the manifold again. thanks for a great helpful thread :5bhurray:
Hi Guys
I am new to freelander ownership but have owned BMW diesels for many years
Interesting reading this (long) thread - got a sort of sense of deja vu.
Not surprising as the TD4 is a (the) 2 litre BMW engine.
I just wanted to confirm that you guys have arrived at the good conclusions.
In fact the EGR system is designed to reduce NOx emmissions by reducing combustion temperatures in the engine. Unfortunately this has the disadvantage of letting of the "goo" into the inlet manifold.
In BMW jargon blocking the vacuum pipe is the "golf tee mod". Fitting an actual EGR bypass is a matter of choice but as far as stopping the build up of the black sticky stuff the golf Tee mod does the job.
There is also of course a considerable amount of oil that gets recycled through the inlet system - this oil originates from the air/ oil seperator. The "loo-roll" type filter needs changing on a regular basis (every 3 oil changes in BMW land) as once its blocked it can apparently shorten the life of your turbo due to excessive oil pressure ..... as well as causing black smoke emissions.
BMW sell a cyclone/vortex type seperator which does not need any regular changing or servicing - should be a good investment for landrovers too.
Regarding the inlet ports in the cylinder head - I saw one mention of swirl flaps. These are used on BMW's to "tune" the air inlet. Maybe on the landrover the swirl flap system is not used - I didnt look on mine yet as I only got it 1 week ago Anyway BMW forums are full of horror stories of swirl flaps falling into engines..... lets hope they are not fitted to the landrover.
For any of you looking for solutions to low power, poor acceleration, smoke etc etc on your TD4 them i can recommend url=http://bimmerforums.co.uk]BMW Forum|Bimmerforums.co.uk|No1 forum for BMWs|BMW Forums|BMW Tuning[/url] to you
Looking forward to sharing experiences with you all and contributing to your site
Digby
I am new to freelander ownership but have owned BMW diesels for many years
Interesting reading this (long) thread - got a sort of sense of deja vu.
Not surprising as the TD4 is a (the) 2 litre BMW engine.
I just wanted to confirm that you guys have arrived at the good conclusions.
In fact the EGR system is designed to reduce NOx emmissions by reducing combustion temperatures in the engine. Unfortunately this has the disadvantage of letting of the "goo" into the inlet manifold.
In BMW jargon blocking the vacuum pipe is the "golf tee mod". Fitting an actual EGR bypass is a matter of choice but as far as stopping the build up of the black sticky stuff the golf Tee mod does the job.
There is also of course a considerable amount of oil that gets recycled through the inlet system - this oil originates from the air/ oil seperator. The "loo-roll" type filter needs changing on a regular basis (every 3 oil changes in BMW land) as once its blocked it can apparently shorten the life of your turbo due to excessive oil pressure ..... as well as causing black smoke emissions.
BMW sell a cyclone/vortex type seperator which does not need any regular changing or servicing - should be a good investment for landrovers too.
Regarding the inlet ports in the cylinder head - I saw one mention of swirl flaps. These are used on BMW's to "tune" the air inlet. Maybe on the landrover the swirl flap system is not used - I didnt look on mine yet as I only got it 1 week ago
Anyway BMW forums are full of horror stories of swirl flaps falling into engines..... lets hope they are not fitted to the landrover.For any of you looking for solutions to low power, poor acceleration, smoke etc etc on your TD4 them i can recommend url=http://bimmerforums.co.uk]BMW Forum|Bimmerforums.co.uk|No1 forum for BMWs|BMW Forums|BMW Tuning[/url] to you
Looking forward to sharing experiences with you all and contributing to your site
Digby
Could some kind person point me in the direction of the correct BMW crankcase breather filter unit for my 06 FL TD4?
I know the part number is 11127799224, but that brings up several variants and I want to make sure I get the right one.
This forum is full of useful advice. I will be doing the egr mod when I have the time.
dog-man
I know the part number is 11127799224, but that brings up several variants and I want to make sure I get the right one.
This forum is full of useful advice. I will be doing the egr mod when I have the time.
dog-man
willo
Well-Known Member
The part number you gave is the one I got for my 2001 Td4, that's the filter plus the cover, the whole complete thing. That's the part number as on the sticker, on the cardboard box there's another number printed: followed by a # sign, but don't know what that 2nd number means.
Last edited:
