Thats GS, you're a god damned hero, I'll get cracking on these as soon as the steering uj & tracking is done.
Bless u and very kind of u to say
Always a team effort and always nice being able to pass on details etc that I’ve been learnt
Must confess when I had my 4 x wheel alignment done by the hunter system it transformed the way my D3 drove, I was extremely pleased
Hope all goes well and happy it’s useful to u, please feel free to ask if u get stuck in anything
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Have had a breeze through this thread - interesting. Driving in to water is not something to do without thinking it through and should never be done at speed. 2ft of water should not really be a challenge for a D4, I believe they have a wading depth of 3ft and if you're careful you might go a bit deeper but not sure I would want to unless fully prepped for wading.
The symptoms described, a clicking/clonking when turning is classic CV joint. However, I would also suggest dropping the front diff oil, I believe D3 and D4 have the same front diff on the auto models. The front diffs can wear so I would be looking to make sure the front diff isn't eating itself. It is not difficult to drop the diff oil and replace but remember when filling, you have to put in the specified amount and not until oil dribbles out of the fill hole. I would also say, measure how much oil comes out of the front diff. you'll know if the diff is bad because of the swarf that will come out with the oil. If you're going to drop the diff oil, make sure you can open the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. HTH
The symptoms described, a clicking/clonking when turning is classic CV joint. However, I would also suggest dropping the front diff oil, I believe D3 and D4 have the same front diff on the auto models. The front diffs can wear so I would be looking to make sure the front diff isn't eating itself. It is not difficult to drop the diff oil and replace but remember when filling, you have to put in the specified amount and not until oil dribbles out of the fill hole. I would also say, measure how much oil comes out of the front diff. you'll know if the diff is bad because of the swarf that will come out with the oil. If you're going to drop the diff oil, make sure you can open the fill plug before you remove the drain plug. HTH
good avice Kev, cheers will do the front diff oil before the rear and the transfer box oils, see if it makes a diff (pun intended)
good avice Kev, cheers will do the front diff oil before the rear and the transfer box oils, see if it makes a diff (pun intended)
kev/guys,
you think this oil is fine for front diff? - owners manual recommends "Castrol SAF-X0" but amazon don't have that for next day delivery? - front diff only needs 0.56 litres according to owners manual so that's cool
Amazon product
classic kev
Well-Known Member
If you want to use Castrol that's entirely up to you. The bottom line is any synthetic GL-5 75W90 gear oil will be fine so shop around. BTW if you're going to do an oil change on the front diff, you might as well do the rear at the same time.
Well boys, this is cool, okay so I replaced the throttle body the other day as I'd took the old one off and it was ****ing oil at the motor section and the bottom of it was covered in thick oil. I couldn't get one side of the EGR pipe lined up properly as I damaged the clip taking it off or trying to put it back on and it wasn't making a good seal, it locked but when I took it out for a test drive, I thrased it a bit and when I got back I ran my fingers underneath each EGR clip where they join to the throttle body and there was fresh oil and oil on the engine block below, new clips came today, I struggled to push the pipe into the throttle body AND get the clip closed but eventually did it, took it out for a test drive and did the same test, and no oil, not thrashed it as much as yesterday but not a drop!
So, that's fixed the oil smell in the cabin, oil on the engine block, but it didn't fix the restricted performance issues.
So, today I was reading about a bloke who had the same two codes and he said he managed to fix it by restoring a good seal in and around the air filter intake box, so I removed the two turbo sensor pipes and took the air intake box out and I noticed that the big rubber gasket that is supposed to sit flush with the steel body on the side of the car that the air intake then feeds from into had been pushed inside the car partially, only 50% or so was actually seated correctly, so I reached in and pulled it outward and then could see that it had a little groove around it and a rubber notch that clicks in place when seated correctly, I got it perfect and then put the airbox back in, screwed the plastic tube back inside the air intake box and carefully fed that into the rubber gasket in to make sure the gasket wasn't dislodged. I then put the air intake box back together, making sure that it was lined up well and perfectly sealed.
Took the car out for a drive, and holy **** does it pull way better, turbos kick in at the right times and no restricted performance at all, I was made up!
So the other thing I was struggling with as you know was the knocking wheel sounds on full lock and strangely it seems to be getting bettter all by itself, it now no longer clunks when on full lock to the right, but knocks faster on the left but very lightly, can hardly feel it any more, I read the other day about brake sensors falling into the wheels and causing these kinds of issues so wondering if something got into the wheels and was slowly breaking down?
Or alternatively if water got into diff/gear/oil or fuel somewhere and has slowly been evaporating off through the breathers?
Either way finally getting somewhere and actually did it all myself so far so pretty proud considering this is my first time messing with motors!
Thanks for the help so far guys, much appreciated. Mantrid.
So, that's fixed the oil smell in the cabin, oil on the engine block, but it didn't fix the restricted performance issues.
So, today I was reading about a bloke who had the same two codes and he said he managed to fix it by restoring a good seal in and around the air filter intake box, so I removed the two turbo sensor pipes and took the air intake box out and I noticed that the big rubber gasket that is supposed to sit flush with the steel body on the side of the car that the air intake then feeds from into had been pushed inside the car partially, only 50% or so was actually seated correctly, so I reached in and pulled it outward and then could see that it had a little groove around it and a rubber notch that clicks in place when seated correctly, I got it perfect and then put the airbox back in, screwed the plastic tube back inside the air intake box and carefully fed that into the rubber gasket in to make sure the gasket wasn't dislodged. I then put the air intake box back together, making sure that it was lined up well and perfectly sealed.
Took the car out for a drive, and holy **** does it pull way better, turbos kick in at the right times and no restricted performance at all, I was made up!
So the other thing I was struggling with as you know was the knocking wheel sounds on full lock and strangely it seems to be getting bettter all by itself, it now no longer clunks when on full lock to the right, but knocks faster on the left but very lightly, can hardly feel it any more, I read the other day about brake sensors falling into the wheels and causing these kinds of issues so wondering if something got into the wheels and was slowly breaking down?
Or alternatively if water got into diff/gear/oil or fuel somewhere and has slowly been evaporating off through the breathers?
Either way finally getting somewhere and actually did it all myself so far so pretty proud considering this is my first time messing with motors!
Thanks for the help so far guys, much appreciated. Mantrid.
