D2 Dash isn't as complicated as your making out. But this went into a D1 anyway so the dash is different.
Fitted a temperature sensor housing into the top hose for the D1 dash to read the temperature, all the warning lights get sink current through the ECU.
The speedometer isn't actually required for it to run well, but you can always use the transfer box signal with a converter.
The engine speed tachometer you can get directly off the back of the TD5 alternator.
Yes, you can get it to run with a deimmobilized ECU. ECU controls the fuel pump so no need. You will need to take 3 relays, the main relay for the ECU, fuel pump relay and the glow plug relay we used the 300tdi one and it seems to work well enough.
Sierra, can you see the purpose of the immo bypass unit I built now..? Also, I think you'll find the VSS to the ECU is only really important if your using an auto box or want to retrofit the cruise control. Had no issues on a manual box, runs spot on!
Fitted a temperature sensor housing into the top hose for the D1 dash to read the temperature, all the warning lights get sink current through the ECU.
The speedometer isn't actually required for it to run well, but you can always use the transfer box signal with a converter.
The engine speed tachometer you can get directly off the back of the TD5 alternator.
Yes, you can get it to run with a deimmobilized ECU. ECU controls the fuel pump so no need. You will need to take 3 relays, the main relay for the ECU, fuel pump relay and the glow plug relay we used the 300tdi one and it seems to work well enough.
Sierra, can you see the purpose of the immo bypass unit I built now..? Also, I think you'll find the VSS to the ECU is only really important if your using an auto box or want to retrofit the cruise control. Had no issues on a manual box, runs spot on!
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As for sticking with the 300tdi, had one, was good. But I love the TD5 off road and on the road
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I found that the VSS is needed for manual too cos it's part of the ECM's overall addaptive strategy for fuelling regardless of transmission, it runs on default without it, if you'll read fault codes you'll find a "road speed missing code logged", for autobox there are two VSSs one is from the EAT ECU and it's compared by the ECM with the one from the SLABS to achieve optimum driveability .... i accept that it runs but for my taste i still consider it a bodge... can you pass MOT with such ''hybrid"?
Still passes yes. And I think your just being a perfectionist. Conversions are never perfect, but I already mentioned how it can be corrected. I'm not actually sure what the pulse output of the D1 road speed sensor is, but if its 8000 pulse per mile, then it should be completely compatible with the ECU.
However, fitting bigger tyres for off road will offset the speed reading on a D1 or D2, so its still as you call it "bodged"
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
i agree... you'll find that i'm against bigger than std dimension tyres as well
...the VSS is 8000 pulse/mile(not km) is 0 -12V PWM signal delivered by the ABS ECU, the wheel speed sensors are sending sine wave analog signal ... yes, i'm a perfectionist thats why a Td5 management with missing VSS is not OK for me and that's why i consider it complicated cos to make it perfect as it should be it is complicated .... you didnt say what you did with the brake pedal switch N/C input, did you fit a D2 pedal switch near then D1's and wired it to the ECM? cos that's important as well, also the engine harness contains only the red plug, the black plug which has important inputs especially the ECU's feeds and grounds + throttle inputs is part of the main harness so that is supposed to be rewired for all those inputs with care.... doesnt seem so simple no matter how i look to it unless you are pleased with a Td5 which runs on several defaults
...the VSS is 8000 pulse/mile(not km) is 0 -12V PWM signal delivered by the ABS ECU, the wheel speed sensors are sending sine wave analog signal ... yes, i'm a perfectionist thats why a Td5 management with missing VSS is not OK for me and that's why i consider it complicated cos to make it perfect as it should be it is complicated .... you didnt say what you did with the brake pedal switch N/C input, did you fit a D2 pedal switch near then D1's and wired it to the ECM? cos that's important as well, also the engine harness contains only the red plug, the black plug which has important inputs especially the ECU's feeds and grounds + throttle inputs is part of the main harness so that is supposed to be rewired for all those inputs with care.... doesnt seem so simple no matter how i look to it unless you are pleased with a Td5 which runs on several defaults
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fireblade7
Active Member
im going with the 300 tdi I take it I would just use the td5 engine wiring harness ??
fireblade7
Active Member
thanks guys im not wanting everyone to fall out over this but am loving the responses I have a complete td5 with 90000 miles auto es
on it mot till next year the body is very good and is the interior im not interested in any way shape or form in keeping td5 chassis and running gear I will be using body for my 300 chassis as ive had for over 20 years galvinised and never had to look at it
the chassis on these disco 2s in my opinion are rust buckets and no interest in doing one
I done a td5 defender to a 200 tdi while back that was not a problem but I can see a lot of elec issues to sort out im sure I will get the answers here though
there has been a few done just need the right person to see this post
regards
mike
on it mot till next year the body is very good and is the interior im not interested in any way shape or form in keeping td5 chassis and running gear I will be using body for my 300 chassis as ive had for over 20 years galvinised and never had to look at it
the chassis on these disco 2s in my opinion are rust buckets and no interest in doing one
I done a td5 defender to a 200 tdi while back that was not a problem but I can see a lot of elec issues to sort out im sure I will get the answers here though
there has been a few done just need the right person to see this post
regards
mike
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The D2 dash(speedometer, tachometer, warnings) will not work for the 300tdi engine cos it works with PWM signals from the Td5 ECM, you'll have to transplant the instrument pack and wire it to the engine and fusebox but let the rest of the wirings in situ(except the engine harness) as to have lights, indicators, door locking, windows, wipers, washers, heater, etc.... that seems simpler than the other way around, or if you want to keep the engine too transplant just the chassis to the D2 and keep the rest as it is
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fireblade7
Active Member
i need to speak to anyone who has done this conversion bodywork is not a problem I will sort all thsat out I got td5body sitting on 300 chassis all seems ok couple of mounts to sort brackets for rear bumper no probs
I could realy do with speaking to someone that's done it already cause they will have the knowledge
I want to know if I can use the brake abs thingy on the pass side or do I have to take that out and use the equilizer valve on the 300
also how they went about putting a throttle pedel in and doing away with the potentiometer
regards
mike
oh and when done I will have a complete td5 engine auto box all on a running chassis for sale only 90000 miles realy sweet
I could realy do with speaking to someone that's done it already cause they will have the knowledge
I want to know if I can use the brake abs thingy on the pass side or do I have to take that out and use the equilizer valve on the 300
also how they went about putting a throttle pedel in and doing away with the potentiometer
regards
mike
oh and when done I will have a complete td5 engine auto box all on a running chassis for sale only 90000 miles realy sweet
Discodevon
Well-Known Member
What year td5 are we talking?
I assume your 300tdi doesn't have ABS? If not, then I would recommend that you use the 300tdi brake controls as they will be compatible with your current axles.
I know the fittings for the Disco 2 clutch lines are different to that of the 300tdi, I would assume it's quite likely that the brake lines are the same.
Also, I think the D1 calipers are different to the D2 calipers, so the brake master cylinder may need to be taken too.
As for swapping the accelerator pedal, when we converted a D1 to a TD5, we took the pedal box off and drilled and mounted the new pedal into position. I would say it's going to be the same with this conversion. As for how to route the accelerator cable, I don't know as we did away with this.
fireblade7
Active Member
its a 2001 es
fireblade7
Active Member
correct no abs yes I will use the 300tdi valve on inner pass wing and will take out abs
fireblade7
Active Member
well I have sand blasted al axels panhards ect ect re painted and rebushed everthing put d2 body on all fits got four mount brackets to make going away to do that now
I took complete dash out of old 300 tdi and took the complete dash out of a td5 to compare them I can see different plugs for the dashes
I am now looking for wireing help ???
regards
mike
any help a bonus
ps
does anyone no of a member that's done it and available for a talk over the project
I took complete dash out of old 300 tdi and took the complete dash out of a td5 to compare them I can see different plugs for the dashes
I am now looking for wireing help ???
regards
mike
any help a bonus
ps
does anyone no of a member that's done it and available for a talk over the project
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
So do you want to keep the D2 dash or put the D1 in?...for wiring things i'm sure i can help as long as you want something "clean" but that will be hard, if you want to just bodge things i'm not up to be part of it
fireblade7
Active Member
cheers
d1 or d2 whichever is best/or easier
d1 or d2 whichever is best/or easier
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
As long as you have the 300Tdi engine the D1 instrument pack will be easy to addapt but it's not only about that, did you keep the main harness which means the one connecting the engine bay fusebox to the interior and all the "hardware" in the D2 body?
fireblade7
Active Member
yes to all
I have the d2 complete and still on the road which I will use when everything is in place sorted
I have a d2 complete shell that is off the chassis which I am using as a template
engine and engine harness sold
I have a d1 engine and box sitting on my d1 chassis with the loom that was connected to engine and going through bulkhead
ithink that's all
hope all makes sense
regards
mike
I have the d2 complete and still on the road which I will use when everything is in place sorted
I have a d2 complete shell that is off the chassis which I am using as a template
engine and engine harness sold
I have a d1 engine and box sitting on my d1 chassis with the loom that was connected to engine and going through bulkhead
ithink that's all
hope all makes sense
regards
mike
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I still dont understand what's your final plan... cos according to that i can tell you what to do, so do you want to use the shell of the D2 and put it on the D1 chassis or what? if that's it and the D2 body is equipped with everything(fuseboxes, BCU, body harnesses except the engine and engine loom the easyest is to transplant the D1 instrument pack into the D2 dash and connect it to the alternator, speed transducer, tank sender and engine as to make the speedometer, tachomneter and gauges work, the doors, wipers/washers. lighting etc should work with the original circuits of the D2 if they were not affected
