Ok, i'll figure it out in a few days cos i'll have to leave now a bit, just confirm that everything except the engine and it's loom are in situ on the D2 body and not cut i mean fuseboxes and other looms cos that's important for this to work, also is the td5 ECU's black plug still there in the engie bay, cos that's not part of the engine harness which contains only thre red plug?
 
I'm on it just tell me few things cos i need to know how to proceed, are you up to run your own wires for speedo and tachometer(i'll tell you the wires where to connnect at the instrument packs's plug) or should i find circuits from the D2's instrument pack plugs or under the dash to the td5 ECU's black plug and splice into those?
 
Ok, where i find spare wire in the black plug i'll put it there also confirm you'll not have ABS on this?
 
Ok, so if everything except the engine/ECU is untouched on the D2 body you should have all the body controll working on it(central door locking, alarm, exterior and interior lights, etc) for the starter you should find the BR wire with lucar connector in the engine bay and as long as the fob works the starter will work as well, to override the immobiliser you'll have to give direct earth to the starter relay's coil at fusebox plug C0573-7-BO, so here's the plan, remember vehicle-connector number-pin number- wire colour , and when i say "black plug" means D2-C0658(engine bay):(strangely some colours are mathcing between D1 and D2 :))

-cluster earth, all the B wires you find coming out of it connect them to B wires from D2 plugs or direct to body
-cluster feed: D1-C222-2-LG to D2-C0230-19-LG
-cluster illumination: D1-C222-7/9-RN to D2-C0230-12-RN
-speedo: D1-C221-2-BR to D2-C0233-13-RS and the speed transducer signal into black plug pin 6-RS
-tachometer: D1-C207-5-WS run wire to the alternator
-fuel gauge: D1-C221-3-GB to D2-C0230-14-GB , you'll find GB wire at the D2 tank's plug
-coolant temp gauge: D1-C222-8-GU to D2-C0233-15-GU the temp sender signal to black plug pin 7-GU
-oil pressure: D1-C222-5-WN to D2-C0230-6-WN, you shopuld find a WN wire hanging in the engine bay
-direction indicators: D1-C207-4-G to D2 fusebox C0587-12-GR
-hazard: to D2's hazard switch LGR wire connect a relay's coil, other side of coil to live 12V and a 12V through relay's contact to D1-C207-9-LGG
-main beam: D1-C207-3-UW to D2 fusebox C0586-14-US
-handbrake/brake fluid level: D1- C222-3-KO to D2-C0230-10-KO, you should find KO in the engine bay where the brake fluid reservoir was

for the SRS and seatbelt warnings i'll have to think hard cos it's vague in the diagram and these were managed by the D1's MFU which is missing now, be aware that all these connections are based on both vehicle's diagrams and if something is not matching it might be a mistake in the diagram or my mistake so after you conncted wires dont install the cluster untill it's not tested or eventually i missed something... then if something is not OK we'll fix it "in situ" ... Good luck
 
Last edited:
thanks my friend
I have put tempory d2 body on to d1 chassis and engine today have put some tempary wires in for battery and earths ect
I put dash in as well I will get instrument cluster tomorrow and start doing some wiring to see what I get working
thanks again
speak soon
mike
 
No hurry, concentrate and think twice before you cut :cool:.... it's not easy but doable and at the end it should be OK without being an ugly bodge :rolleyes:, as long as the diagrams are accurate there's no reason to not work
 
sierrafery said:
Ok, so if everything except the engine/ECU is untouched on the D2 body you should have all the body controll working on it(central door locking, alarm, exterior and interior lights, etc) for the starter you should find the BR wire with lucar connector in the engine bay and as long as the fob works the starter will work as well, to override the immobiliser you'll have to give direct earth to the starter relay's coil at fusebox plug C0573-7-BO, so here's the plan, remember vehicle-connector number-pin number- wire colour , and when i say "black plug" means D2-C0658(engine bay):(strangely some colours are mathcing between D1 and D2 :))

-cluster earth, all the B wires you find coming out of it connect them to B wires from D2 plugs or direct to body
-cluster feed: D1-C222-2-LG to D2-C0230-19-LG
-cluster illumination: D1-C222-7/9-RN to D2-C0230-12-RN
-speedo: D1-C221-2-BR to D2-C0233-13-RS and the speed transducer signal into black plug pin 6-RS
-tachometer: D1-C207-5-WS run wire to the alternator
-fuel gauge: D1-C221-3-GB to D2-C0230-14-GB , you'll find GB wire at the D2 tank's plug
-coolant temp gauge: D1-C222-8-GU to D2-C0233-15-GU the temp sender signal to black plug pin 7-GU
-oil pressure: D1-C222-5-WN to D2-C0230-6-WN, you shopuld find a WN wire hanging in the engine bay
-direction indicators: D1-C207-4-G to D2 fusebox C0587-12-GR
-hazard: to D2's hazard switch LGR wire connect a relay's coil, other side of coil to live 12V and a 12V through relay's contact to D1-C207-9-LGG
-main beam: D1-C207-3-UW to D2 fusebox C0586-14-US
-handbrake/brake fluid level: D1- C222-3-KO to D2-C0230-10-KO, you should find KO in the engine bay where the brake fluid reservoir was

for the SRS and seatbelt warnings i'll have to think hard cos it's vague in the diagram and these were managed by the D1's MFU which is missing now, be aware that all these connections are based on both vehicle's diagrams and if something is not matching it might be a mistake in the diagram or my mistake so after you conncted wires dont install the cluster untill it's not tested or eventually i missed something... then if something is not OK we'll fix it "in situ" ... Good luck
Click to expand...
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
:nopics:
Click to expand...
I know this is an old thread but I'm working on a similar project atm. concerning the throttle pedals. The throttle pedal on the disco 2 is bolted to the "control pedal back plate" by two captive bolts , the disco 1 pedal is welded to the back plate. I simply removed the disco 2 pedal then cut around the disco 1 pedal and drilled two holes and bolted it to the disco 2 plate.
P.S Thanks for this thread as there is lots of good info here.
 
sierrafery said:
Ok, so if everything except the engine/ECU is untouched on the D2 body you should have all the body controll working on it(central door locking, alarm, exterior and interior lights, etc) for the starter you should find the BR wire with lucar connector in the engine bay and as long as the fob works the starter will work as well, to override the immobiliser you'll have to give direct earth to the starter relay's coil at fusebox plug C0573-7-BO, so here's the plan, remember vehicle-connector number-pin number- wire colour , and when i say "black plug" means D2-C0658(engine bay):(strangely some colours are mathcing between D1 and D2 :))

-cluster earth, all the B wires you find coming out of it connect them to B wires from D2 plugs or direct to body
-cluster feed: D1-C222-2-LG to D2-C0230-19-LG
-cluster illumination: D1-C222-7/9-RN to D2-C0230-12-RN
-speedo: D1-C221-2-BR to D2-C0233-13-RS and the speed transducer signal into black plug pin 6-RS
-tachometer: D1-C207-5-WS run wire to the alternator
-fuel gauge: D1-C221-3-GB to D2-C0230-14-GB , you'll find GB wire at the D2 tank's plug
-coolant temp gauge: D1-C222-8-GU to D2-C0233-15-GU the temp sender signal to black plug pin 7-GU
-oil pressure: D1-C222-5-WN to D2-C0230-6-WN, you shopuld find a WN wire hanging in the engine bay
-direction indicators: D1-C207-4-G to D2 fusebox C0587-12-GR
-hazard: to D2's hazard switch LGR wire connect a relay's coil, other side of coil to live 12V and a 12V through relay's contact to D1-C207-9-LGG
-main beam: D1-C207-3-UW to D2 fusebox C0586-14-US
-handbrake/brake fluid level: D1- C222-3-KO to D2-C0230-10-KO, you should find KO in the engine bay where the brake fluid reservoir was

for the SRS and seatbelt warnings i'll have to think hard cos it's vague in the diagram and these were managed by the D1's MFU which is missing now, be aware that all these connections are based on both vehicle's diagrams and if something is not matching it might be a mistake in the diagram or my mistake so after you conncted wires dont install the cluster untill it's not tested or eventually i missed something... then if something is not OK we'll fix it "in situ" ... Good luck
Click to expand...
Im presently doing the wiring swap from D2 wires to D1 cluster. Im just wondering why some instructions say "connect to the fuse box(direction indicators) and not take the original cluster feed.
Thank you for the work done in research it is appreciated, i will let you know what works.
 
findo1 said:
Im just wondering why some instructions say "connect to the fuse box(direction indicators) and not take the original cluster feed.
Click to expand...
I dont understand your question... take the "cluster feed" for what? the indicator warning lamps are connected to the IP's PCB and managed by the BCU through a serial data bus with digital signal, there is no separate wiring for the warnings.... you must know exactly how a D2 works if you want to use it's electronic inputs which are mainly digital for a analog D1 setup ... i forgot what i was thinking when i posted those instructions but i'm sure it was the best or the only way to do it
 
I dont doubt you know what your saying but what im asking is why isn't there already a wire from the cluster feed (all those wires which plug into the disco 2 cluster?)What im saying is if the disco 2 works without a wire to the fuse box why not the disco 1 cluster I think your saying its digital so wouldn't work. Im just wondering if it might have been better just to leave the D2 cluster in place What is it that would not work when attached to the 300tdi engine
 
sierrafery said:
I dont understand your question... take the "cluster feed" for what? the indicator warning lamps are connected to the IP's PCB and managed by the BCU through a serial data bus with digital signal, there is no separate wiring for the warnings.... you must know exactly how a D2 works if you want to use it's electronic inputs which are mainly digital for a analog D1 setup ... i forgot what i was thinking when i posted those instructions but i'm sure it was the best or the only way to do it
Click to expand...
I know this was a long time ago! . I'm not fantastic with electrics I just about underatnd my series 3 electrics.which is why im more than happy to stick with ancient 300 tdi engine
 
findo1 said:
Im just wondering if it might have been better just to leave the D2 cluster in place What is it that would not work when attached to the 300tdi engine
Click to expand...
I can't imagine much on the D2 cluster which would work for a 300tdi engine without all kind of converters cos it works with digital signals delivered by the Td5 engine ECU in conjunction with the BCU which are not compatible with 300Tdi
 
findo1 said:
I'm not fantastic with electrics I just about underatnd my series 3 electrics.which is why im more than happy to stick with ancient 300 tdi engine
Click to expand...
You must be well skilled with electrics if a D2 is involved or better let it go
 
I had a good disco 1 300tdi engine and chassis with a completely rotten body And came across a good condition (only a months welding!) disco 2 body without a chassis or engine , seemed like a good idea to put them together. I'm too far down the road on this project to let it go. Looking around the internet for information this post is by far the best ,so I'm grateful for your previous input, and I may even learn a bit along the way. Surprised your still around.

sierrafery said:
You must be well skilled with electrics if a D2 is involved or better
Click to expand...
 
findo1 said:
I had a good disco 1 300tdi engine and chassis with a completely rotten body And came across a good condition (only a months welding!) disco 2 body without a chassis or engine , seemed like a good idea to put them together. I'm too far down the road on this project to let it go. Looking around the internet for information this post is by far the best ,so I'm grateful for your previous input, and I may even learn a bit along the way. Surprised your still around.
Click to expand...

If I was doing a D2 body swap to D1 300tdi, id remove the 300tdi loom & chuck it in the D2 shell & just rewire the lights to
suit. Retro fit the cluster which wouldnt be too difficult. keeping the D2 loom & cluster ooofttt thats a head ache stuff that.
Id end up burning it. Before you do drop me a msg im always looking for unburnt projects.
 
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