Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
I will have to find it agsin in rave its saying water sensors for cold start and fuel sensor for running conditions I didn't say any think about the gauge
I will have to find it agsin in rave its saying water sensors for cold start and fuel sensor for running conditions I didn't say any think about the gauge
I will have to find it agsin in rave its saying water sensors for cold start and fuel sensor for running conditions I didn't say any think about the gauge
Ok coolant temp sensors. One for Engine ECU. One for dash gauge. One for aircon (on pipe under dash). Later models one for controlling aircon fans for engine overheat. Fuel temp sensor, tells ECU temp and therefore density of fuel.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The third sensor located at the end of the block nearest the bulkhead is a thermal switch to bring on the fans in an engine overheat situation, only fitted on later cars, the sensor on the heater pipe for the HEVAC remains.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
ECU temp sensor can be the culprit for bad cold start. Or hot for that matter but mostly cold. Because on cold starts the temp it senses is used to determine the length of time the glow plugs are powered. If on a cold morning the plugs only come on for four or five seconds it may have failed. And the ECU reverted to default 50 degrees. Hence the need for two or three applications before a clean start. Glows should be on for 8 or 9 seconds on a really cold morning.
That's interesting. My high temp alarm triggers a audible alarm. I was thinking of adding a button to run the fans but parallel to that I think I will run them with the alarm trigger.
Ohhh this is going off topic.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Easier and safer to do my aircon fans mod as it affects nothing. PM me with an email address if you want details.That's interesting. My high temp alarm triggers a audible alarm. I was thinking of adding a button to run the fans but parallel to that I think I will run them with the alarm trigger.
Ohhh this is going off topic.
Hello all,
Back on this matter.
Bought a nanocom evolution. Erased all EDC errors and problem reappears.
Errors logged this morning were:
NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file
GLOW PLUG (HEATERS) FAULT
Type: INVALID FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 42
WATER TEMP = 117
OCCURRANCE = 3
---
ENGINE SPEED SENSOR INVALID VALUE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 88
OCCURRANCE = 11
---
ENGINE IMMOBILISER LINK FAULT
Type: TOO LOW,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 175
OCCURRANCE = 6
---
The glow plugs were all taken out and tested last week. Before that I tested them with a multimeter. To me, visually, they are fine.
How can engine immobiliser have an intermittent fault?
Iv'e checked the connector under the fusebox and it seems ok.
Should I look for the data link wires used for immobiliser?
Regards
Back on this matter.
Bought a nanocom evolution. Erased all EDC errors and problem reappears.
Errors logged this morning were:
NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file
GLOW PLUG (HEATERS) FAULT
Type: INVALID FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 42
WATER TEMP = 117
OCCURRANCE = 3
---
ENGINE SPEED SENSOR INVALID VALUE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 88
OCCURRANCE = 11
---
ENGINE IMMOBILISER LINK FAULT
Type: TOO LOW,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 175
OCCURRANCE = 6
---
The glow plugs were all taken out and tested last week. Before that I tested them with a multimeter. To me, visually, they are fine.
How can engine immobiliser have an intermittent fault?
Iv'e checked the connector under the fusebox and it seems ok.
Should I look for the data link wires used for immobiliser?
Regards
Intermittent faults are usually bad or dirty connections.
May not be fuse box, check connections to crank sensor, ECU temp sensor and ECU. Did you disconnect and check the multi plugs under fuse box? Disconnect battery before playing in there.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The other 2 faults look odd as the water temperature logged suggests an overheat? How hot was the engine at the time??
It does sound like it might be fuse box or bad connections.
It does not matter what temp the engine was when you read them. They are logged faults. That means they occurred at a previous time. The temp may well have been 0 degrees when one was logged. If your car is sometimes hard to start cold, then i would think the ECU is not switching the glow relay on, and that is one of the logged faults. It does not matter how good the glow plugs are if they are not being powered they won't work. The temp will be from the ECU temp sensor try changing that.
Last edited:
These logged readings were taken a minute after avery faults were cleared.
When cold, the glow plug light comes on and when hot it doesn't.
I'll check that temp sensor.
Then they were not properly cleared. You cannot have 11 occasions of a fault in a minute. The glow relay takes it's power directly from the battery. But is switched by the ECU from temp readings provided by ECU temp sensor. The temp readings are in the ECU from the ECU temp sensor, they appear to be nonsense. 175 degrees would have alarm bells ringing and cannot be correct. Check the glow relay for good contacts and burning.
Just went out to have another reading, and here they are.
Engine cold. ambient temp is +/- 20ºC
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file
ENGINE SPEED SENSOR INVALID VALUE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,CURRENT,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 193
OCCURRANCE = 14
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC inputs GEN file
Water temperature;Air temperature;Boost pressure(kpa);Ambient pressure(kpa);Throttle potentiometer(%);Throttle potentiometer(v);Battery(V);Low Idle value;Cruise status
5.32;20.28;101.19;101.19;0.00;0.4;11.64;819.00;CRUISE ON
4.63;20.28;101.19;101.19;0.00;0.4;11.64;819.00;CRUISE ON
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
So at the same time, water temp was +/- 5ºC so that value cannot be in ºC
maybe mV?!
I will upload a video showing the rev counter going nuts while cranking and not firing.
I suspect something with the speed sensor or cabling.
Is there a simple way to adjust the sensor position?
Engine cold. ambient temp is +/- 20ºC
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file
ENGINE SPEED SENSOR INVALID VALUE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,CURRENT,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 0
WATER TEMP = 193
OCCURRANCE = 14
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC inputs GEN file
Water temperature;Air temperature;Boost pressure(kpa);Ambient pressure(kpa);Throttle potentiometer(%);Throttle potentiometer(v);Battery(V);Low Idle value;Cruise status
5.32;20.28;101.19;101.19;0.00;0.4;11.64;819.00;CRUISE ON
4.63;20.28;101.19;101.19;0.00;0.4;11.64;819.00;CRUISE ON
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
So at the same time, water temp was +/- 5ºC so that value cannot be in ºC
maybe mV?!
I will upload a video showing the rev counter going nuts while cranking and not firing.
I suspect something with the speed sensor or cabling.
Is there a simple way to adjust the sensor position?
Rev counter is driven from engine ECU via signals from crank sensor. Think you may have to start looking at the ECU. Or at least the connections to it. Everything listed as a fault is controlled or driven from that.
