Datatek
Well-Known Member
When out of sync, you do not get diesel at the injectors, if you did it would start.
Why would it not fire with diesel at injectors. If it is out of sync stop valve will be shut and or quantity collar will not be set in start position because that part of ECU is shut down to stop it starting. Everything working but no diesel at injectors is classic out of sync.
That's what I thought...
Well, this was a busy evening and morning. Took the intake manifold off to measure the plugs. Took one out and tested at the battery. RED HOT! Every other were tested by multimeter and all read the same.
Changed the stop solenoid but it seemed to be working ok.
If the Land is stoped for 1-2h I have no problem restarting it. Did that yesterday.
I now have half a tank of diesel.
This morning was another history. No fire again. BUT, I manage to start it!
What I did was:
3 times on just the glow plugs and no go.
Closed the in tank pump relay and, cracked open the input fuel pipe at the fip and let it run a while.
3 times on just the glow plugs and them crank it but still no go.
Cracked open 2 pipes at the injectors and crank it over, and now I'm starting to get some "pufs". Tried 3 4 more times and it started. Finaly I can get to work...
What is happening here?!
Today I bought some new small return fuel pipe and a new non return valve to replace the one that I have.
Should I check the FIP timing? This engine was all rebuilt by me, by the book. I replaced the chains and tensioner but the guides were not available so old ones were used.
It's been 13.000 Km ~ 8.000 miles since overhaul, should I recheck that? Engine has been running very well since overhaul but all of a sudden, this appears...
Any advice?
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
So your now saying once started and then left if so hot fix issues ...ps the guides are avilible I have a invoice for them about a year ago
Last edited:
Datatek
Well-Known Member
So one glow plug got hot. You should have tried the others, just because they meter the same does not mean they get hot.
Have you checked the voltage at the glow plugs when they operate?
Yes, but is it time or temperature related?
ps, my local supplier din't had them available so... I think it's ok. The all kit should live forever anyway...
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Personaly I would change the glow plugs its a cheap option while they are out do compression test just to be sure. The fip does have a temp sensor could be cold start isn't working but I don't get why you have fuel sometimes out of injector pipes and sometimes not strange
That's what I thought...
Well, this was a busy evening and morning. Took the intake manifold off to measure the plugs. Took one out and tested at the battery. RED HOT! Every other were tested by multimeter and all read the same.
Changed the stop solenoid but it seemed to be working ok.
If the Land is stoped for 1-2h I have no problem restarting it. Did that yesterday.
I now have half a tank of diesel.
This morning was another history. No fire again. BUT, I manage to start it!
What I did was:
3 times on just the glow plugs and no go.
Closed the in tank pump relay and, cracked open the input fuel pipe at the fip and let it run a while.
3 times on just the glow plugs and them crank it but still no go.
Cracked open 2 pipes at the injectors and crank it over, and now I'm starting to get some "pufs". Tried 3 4 more times and it started. Finaly I can get to work...
What is happening here?!
Today I bought some new small return fuel pipe and a new non return valve to replace the one that I have.
Should I check the FIP timing? This engine was all rebuilt by me, by the book. I replaced the chains and tensioner but the guides were not available so old ones were used.
It's been 13.000 Km ~ 8.000 miles since overhaul, should I recheck that? Engine has been running very well since overhaul but all of a sudden, this appears...
Any advice?
Did you take the wires off them or did you check them with wires connected?
Of course I took them all out! How could anything be measured with the wires connecting all to each other? :jaw:
I know , I know, you don't know me
The only mistake I did and I regret it is that I used a cheap Chinese multimeter.
Yesterday I replaced the NRV and all the fuel return pipes that interconnect the injectors.
This morning no joy again.
I had to, force intank pump, open high pressure pipe at 1 and 6 cylinder and crank the hell out of it. Them glow stop and crank x2 and it starts. :crazy_driver:
I know , I know, you don't know me
The only mistake I did and I regret it is that I used a cheap Chinese multimeter.
Yesterday I replaced the NRV and all the fuel return pipes that interconnect the injectors.
This morning no joy again.
I had to, force intank pump, open high pressure pipe at 1 and 6 cylinder and crank the hell out of it. Them glow stop and crank x2 and it starts. :crazy_driver:
Of course I took them all out! How could anything be measured with the wires connecting all to each other? :jaw:
I know , I know, you don't know me
The only mistake I did and I regret it is that I used a cheap Chinese multimeter.
Yesterday I replaced the NRV and all the fuel return pipes that interconnect the injectors.
This morning no joy again.
I had to, force intank pump, open high pressure pipe at 1 and 6 cylinder and crank the hell out of it. Them glow stop and crank x2 and it starts. :crazy_driver:
Can you not get any diagnostics on it. When you rebuilt the engine how did you time the pump. Is the advance solenoid working? Think you are going to have to start looking at the injection pump to be honest.
Because I do not have nanocom or anything i'm depending on someone with limited time to spare but it will be done if it needs to. If I could get my hands on a diagnostic I would very happy!
I timed the FIP by Rave's specifications. How can I test the advance solenoid?
It should click in on cold start as ignition is switched on. But it has nothing to do with fuel delivery other than advancing it for cold start. But to be honest i think you really need to get some diagnostics on it. Or you are guessing and that costs money. But if fuel delivery keeps coming and going it points to the pump or the electronics controlling it. A Nanocom or something of that nature will point you in the correct direction. Think you need to be taking a serious look at injection pump.
Hi again,
Filled the tank to max and symptoms stay the same.
I now found out that short cranking times result better than long ones. Also if I heat the glow plugs 3 or 4 times as suggested, then crank and repeat I also get better result.
I ordered a set of BERU glow plugs and will replace them.
I don't know what to say. You may think I'm crazy or something.
I swear I can't see any diesel at the injectors when cranking. But I'm alone wile doing these tests so I may miss something.
I checked my Chinese multimeter and is actually measuring resistance quite accurately.
Now here is the thing. As I said before, I took one out and connected to the battery the check the glow. It seemed ok. Checked resistance and read something around 1 MEGA ohms. I din't took any attention to it since I didn't know the correct value (0.8 ->1.2 ohm). What I did was measure the one I sow working and with that value checked all others. All where about the same value so to me no alarm.
Panic may well be the main culpitt here. Another one may be the sense of knowlege. Sometimes, the more you think you know, the dummiest things you do.
Side note:
I bought these from eBay FIAT LANCIA ALFA ROMEO RENAULT NEW GLOW PLUG QGP151 BERU 0100226229 | eBay cost me £22.69 ~25 for the 6.
Here at Portugal, a local supplier quote also for a BERU 20.93 ~ 18£ EACH so x6.
There is something very wrong with my country...
Filled the tank to max and symptoms stay the same.
I now found out that short cranking times result better than long ones. Also if I heat the glow plugs 3 or 4 times as suggested, then crank and repeat I also get better result.
I ordered a set of BERU glow plugs and will replace them.
I don't know what to say. You may think I'm crazy or something.
I swear I can't see any diesel at the injectors when cranking. But I'm alone wile doing these tests so I may miss something.
I checked my Chinese multimeter and is actually measuring resistance quite accurately.
Now here is the thing. As I said before, I took one out and connected to the battery the check the glow. It seemed ok. Checked resistance and read something around 1 MEGA ohms. I din't took any attention to it since I didn't know the correct value (0.8 ->1.2 ohm). What I did was measure the one I sow working and with that value checked all others. All where about the same value so to me no alarm.
Panic may well be the main culpitt here. Another one may be the sense of knowlege. Sometimes, the more you think you know, the dummiest things you do.
Side note:
I bought these from eBay FIAT LANCIA ALFA ROMEO RENAULT NEW GLOW PLUG QGP151 BERU 0100226229 | eBay cost me £22.69 ~25 for the 6.
Here at Portugal, a local supplier quote also for a BERU 20.93 ~ 18£ EACH so x6.
There is something very wrong with my country...
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
at last , yes your right you can't see diesel Especially when the pipe gets old that not the problem its when you see bubbles that's the time to panic your always see bubbles but its hard to see diesel flowingHi again,
Filled the tank to max and symptoms stay the same.
I now found out that short cranking times result better than long ones. Also if I heat the glow plugs 3 or 4 times as suggested, then crank and repeat I also get better result.
I ordered a set of BERU glow plugs and will replace them.
I don't know what to say. You may think I'm crazy or something.
I swear I can't see any diesel at the injectors when cranking. But I'm alone wile doing these tests so I may miss something.
I checked my Chinese multimeter and is actually measuring resistance quite accurately.
Now here is the thing. As I said before, I took one out and connected to the battery the check the glow. It seemed ok. Checked resistance and read something around 1 MEGA ohms. I din't took any attention to it since I didn't know the correct value (0.8 ->1.2 ohm). What I did was measure the one I sow working and with that value checked all others. All where about the same value so to me no alarm.
Panic may well be the main culpitt here. Another one may be the sense of knowlege. Sometimes, the more you think you know, the dummiest things you do.
Side note:
I bought these from eBay FIAT LANCIA ALFA ROMEO RENAULT NEW GLOW PLUG QGP151 BERU 0100226229 | eBay cost me £22.69 ~25 for the 6.
Here at Portugal, a local supplier quote also for a BERU 20.93 ~ 18£ EACH so x6.
There is something very wrong with my country...
at last , yes your right you can't see diesel Especially when the pipe gets old that not the problem its when you see bubbles that's the time to panic your always see bubbles but its hard to see diesel flowing
I mean I don't see diesel when I open the high pressure pipe at the injector. That's what started all this nonsense.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
I can not see it being Intermittent out of hi pressure injectors pipes unless you have a faulty intank pump or lose wires on pump connector . It was probably not coming out as you took the feed pipe off to fip allowing air when you went to check at injector end nothing , always start at the end and work backwards
Last edited:
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Hi again,
Filled the tank to max and symptoms stay the same.
I now found out that short cranking times result better than long ones. Also if I heat the glow plugs 3 or 4 times as suggested, then crank and repeat I also get better result.
I ordered a set of BERU glow plugs and will replace them.
I don't know what to say. You may think I'm crazy or something.
I swear I can't see any diesel at the injectors when cranking. But I'm alone wile doing these tests so I may miss something.
I checked my Chinese multimeter and is actually measuring resistance quite accurately.
Now here is the thing. As I said before, I took one out and connected to the battery the check the glow. It seemed ok. Checked resistance and read something around 1 MEGA ohms. I din't took any attention to it since I didn't know the correct value (0.8 ->1.2 ohm). What I did was measure the one I sow working and with that value checked all others. All where about the same value so to me no alarm.
Panic may well be the main culpitt here. Another one may be the sense of knowlege. Sometimes, the more you think you know, the dummiest things you do.
Side note:
I bought these from eBay FIAT LANCIA ALFA ROMEO RENAULT NEW GLOW PLUG QGP151 BERU 0100226229 | eBay cost me £22.69 ~25 for the 6.
Here at Portugal, a local supplier quote also for a BERU 20.93 ~ 18£ EACH so x6.
There is something very wrong with my country...
Why I wonder have you bought glowplugs listed for Fiat/ Alfa and not one's listed for P38?
Are you sure they are the correct length and heat value? Not all glow plugs are the same.
I can not see it being Intermittent out of hi pressure injectors pipes unless you have a faulty intank pump or lose wires on pump connector . It was probably not coming out as you took the feed pipe off to fip allowing air when you went to check at injector end nothing , always start at the end and work backwards
Engine will run quite happily without in tank pump working if injection pump is in good nick. But there will a noticeable lack of power, Eg climbing a hill.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
Only if its been primed wont just suck it up from the tank
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
What I thought he's undone the feed pipe checked all that in the meantime put it all back
Then checked injector end had air and assumed it was not pumping just a thought god knows , I always crack an injector pipe and if no diesel work backwards until I find where or what has made the flow stop.
Then checked injector end had air and assumed it was not pumping just a thought
god knows , I always crack an injector pipe and if no diesel work backwards until I find where or what has made the flow stop.
