So wont it spin round if I loose the clamp ? How do I get back to TDC or where it should be from here. ?
Take it out to turn it 180 degrees, then do up the clamp lightly.
Another thing that I do is to make a mark, with a pencil on the clamp, to align with the cast line on the distributor body.
You probably won't be able to use a timing light, although you could use the light, and then make final adjustment by hand and ear, depending on what fuel you will be using.
Making a mark on the clamp gives you a known reference point, and you can adjust it back and forth until it runs right.
 
Take it out to turn it 180 degrees, then do up the clamp lightly.
Another thing that I do is to make a mark, with a pencil on the clamp, to align with the cast line on the distributor body.
You probably won't be able to use a timing light, although you could use the light, and then make final adjustment by hand and ear, depending on what fuel you will be using.
Making a mark on the clamp gives you a known reference point, and you can adjust it back and forth until it runs right.
OK So leave the rotor where it is going to sit now, but spin the rest round so the vacum is facing to the rear ?
Probably be a while before starting, but once I get alt, starter motor ect, fixed in place, will rig a Radiator up and try and fire it up
 
OK So leave the rotor where it is going to sit now, but spin the rest round so the vacum is facing to the rear ?
Probably be a while before starting, but once I get alt, starter motor ect, fixed in place, will rig a Radiator up and try and fire it up
Provided you are sure the distributor drive gear is timed to the right mark on the flywheel, just leave final adjustment until you are ready to start up. It is quite possible to finely adjust the timing with the engine installed in the vehicle and fitted up.
 
Provided you are sure the distributor drive gear is timed to the right mark on the flywheel, just leave final adjustment until you are ready to start up. It is quite possible to finely adjust the timing with the engine installed in the vehicle and fitted up.
There is Only 1 Mark on flywheel and 3 prongs on marker. as long as it is near enough then it can br fine tuned like you say on start up.
Yea the rotor arm is pointing in the right direction, just need to spin the body round with the clamp loosened
OK will spin it around
 
There is Only 1 Mark on flywheel and 3 prongs on marker. as long as it is near enough then it can br fine tuned like you say on start up.

OK will spin it around

The three pointers are probably TDC, 3 degrees, and 6 degrees. The two degree pointers are for different grades of fuel.

Assuming you will be using Super Unleaded, you want 6 degrees, but if it isn't set to that one, you can probably adjust on the distributor itself.

I have lost track of this. Is this the rebuilt engine, or another one you have bought?
 
The three pointers are probably TDC, 3 degrees, and 6 degrees. The two degree pointers are for different grades of fuel.

Assuming you will be using Super Unleaded, you want 6 degrees, but if it isn't set to that one, you can probably adjust on the distributor itself.

I have lost track of this. Is this the rebuilt engine, or another one you have bought?
This is the rebuilt one from MOD here is pic of markers and 1 slit in flywheel
 

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The three pointers are probably TDC, 3 degrees, and 6 degrees. The two degree pointers are for different grades of fuel.

Assuming you will be using Super Unleaded, you want 6 degrees, but if it isn't set to that one, you can probably adjust on the distributor itself.

I have lost track of this. Is this the rebuilt engine, or another one you have bought?
Yep 3and6. I used to use a bulb across the points to see when they are just starting to open. It's close enough
 
This is the rebuilt one from MOD here is pic of markers and 1 slit in flywheel
If that is at TDC, it looks a long way out.

I have no idea what kind of fuel the military use, and therefore no idea what they would build the engine for.
 
If that is at TDC, it looks a long way out.

I have no idea what kind of fuel the military use, and therefore no idea what they would build the engine for.
Forgot to say, that pic was taken before I turned engine, it is right on the third pointer now.
Heres me thinking petrol is petrol, which kind of petrol should I be using ? I know this engine is 8.1 if that makes any diference.
Everyone kept saying why not Diesel but I wanted to keep it Origional, sometimes wish I had gone for a bloody diesel engine now :rolleyes:
 
Heres me thinking petrol is petrol, which kind of petrol should I be using ? I know this engine is 8.1 if that makes any diference.
Everyone kept saying why not Diesel but I wanted to keep it Origional, sometimes wish I had gone for a bloody diesel engine now :rolleyes:
You are better off with Petrol, the diesels are not that good.

Fuel is a bit of an open question at the moment. We have just gone from E5 unleaded with additive to Super Unleaded.

I suspect neither is much like the leaded 4 star these engines were designed to run on.
But as I said, I know next to nothing about military vehicles, I only do civilian.
 
You are better off with Petrol, the diesels are not that good.

Fuel is a bit if an open question at the moment. We have just gone from E5 unleaded with additive to Super Unleaded.

I suspect neither is much like the leaded 4 star these engines were designed to run on.
But as I said, I know next to nothing about military vehicles, I only do civilian.
The mark on flywheel is lined up bang on the third prong now, which points the rotor to number 1 plug.
 
It will run on just about anything, super unleaded won't kill any gaskets etc if you want to be safe.
I thought they were originally designed to run on 3 star?
The petrol is definitely the better choice of the 2. Especially if you have false teeth
 
It will run on just about anything, super unleaded won't kill any gaskets etc if you want to be safe.
I thought they were originally designed to run on 3 star?
The petrol is definitely the better choice of the 2. Especially if you have false teeth
You could be right. I always used to run the petrols on 4 star back in the 80s.

I have been working on diesels all my working life, and I think the Land Rover offerings are probably one of the worst I have ever had to do with, possibly with the exception of the engines found in Astra vans.
 
Think I will bolt it all up lightly for now then deal with the fine tuning on start up.
Hope you are all not sick of me but I couldnt do this without you lot.

Fitting Stater Motor Next. ;)
Socket set with good long extension bars for the starter, unless you are a small monkey! :)
 
Haven't got it out the box yet but Im hoping its just a case of shoving it in here and tightening 2 bolts. :rolleyes:
 

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