Tbh i couldnt give a sh!t about whats quicker. Im thinking my 110 will be plenty quick enough with a 6BT regardless of box....
I just prefer manual. Far more involved driving experience. Can blip on down-changes etc. Just more fun in my book.
Also regarding transfer, i have a fully rebuilt LT230. I would like to utilize it. I will prob go ZF/LT230 at least to start with. When money then allows i will upgrade.
 
Please listen, a built lt230 with the centre diff removed is good for 1000bhp petrol engine on a light truck, but diesels have nasty torque spikes due to the ignition and burn process.

There are lots of big strong manuals but they are huge, whereas a simple old skool auto is simple epicyclic gears which are very strong for size ratio(more gears in mesh for a given ratio, look at reduction hubs on a big truck and the torque loading hence tyhe recomendation to go auto

The zf 5 42 is strong compared to rover junk but..

OP, you say you want to build a monster 110 but cant weld or fabricate and want picture guidance etc... get back to reality and learn some ****!
 
pressbrake said:
Please listen, a built lt230 with the centre diff removed is good for 1000bhp petrol engine on a light truck, but diesels have nasty torque spikes due to the ignition and burn process.

There are lots of big strong manuals but they are huge, whereas a simple old skool auto is simple epicyclic gears which are very strong for size ratio(more gears in mesh for a given ratio, look at reduction hubs on a big truck and the torque loading hence tyhe recomendation to go auto

The zf 5 42 is strong compared to rover junk but..

OP, you say you want to build a monster 110 but cant weld or fabricate and want picture guidance etc... get back to reality and learn some ****!
Click to expand...

Diesels have a 2-3 times the torque to hp ratio. where a petrol is a/or very close 1-1 ratio. My stock power stroke is 305 hp but 650 torque . Then there are diesels with 500 hp and 1800lbs torque.

Torque is what breaks stuff quicker than hp
 
MayorQuimby said:
I cant remember being offensive to you at any point, in fact you never even had the decency to answer my pm... So please listen. Go and do one. And take ur sh!tty autos with you...
Click to expand...

there's a group of people you should consider listening carefully to on here, pressbrake is one ;)
 
You send messages on different forums asking for a set of instructions multiple times your not a friend or a regular contributer that deserves help my business is Landrover conversions so therefore knowledge and designs I have are for me(been stabbed in the back plenty by various lr suppliers etc)
You say you want to run a high power cummins through a lt230 which is one of the best transfer boxes ever made which I say is pointless as a tuned cummins can tear a supra gearbox casing in half but you don't listen
Next I point out a manual box strong enough for that sort of torque loading like a big xf or fuller is huge at around 250kg plus hense there are a lot of autos in high power stuff but even then it needs to be a built unit

As I said do research and learn some stuff by that I mean product knowledge to get dimensions and torque loadings what side diffs are on and where they lay relative to the chassis rails what suspension and links to stop tramp etc etc
I wasn't rude just telling the truth:p
 
You are correct in saying that im not a regular contributor. Thats fair enough, but we've all got to start somewhere right? Its a bit presumptious to say i dont listen. I listened to everything you said. Even though i pm'd you offering money for your help as i didnt want to blag your time. I admit im not an expert. I even said that at the start. But at the end of the day i dont have a big fully-equipped workshop with lathes, drills and welding gear to start learning how to fab etc. I appreciate you saying that my intended setup is not up to the tuned cummins, but like i said i cant afford to change everything at once.
 
Then don't start with the tuning.....buy a low powered one with potential, drop it into a custom chassis and then use an lt95 until you can afford to tune it fully and fit a proper box
 
woah everyone lets just calm down
 

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if you were capable of welding I'd say make your own hd chassis but as such you'll be looking at a cost off 1000's for a super thick re-enforced one
 
Use the zf 5 42 thats on the engine to start with as its up to the job, ratios work with landrover axles and the bonus being its the same box as 90's f350 pick ups so you can get the normal control gearshift mechanism and convert it over with just a few bolts. also you can carry on using a daf complete gearbox assembly with the big clutch cover plate and friction plate with standard centre you dont need the air assist with the clutch slave cylinder but its lovely and light with it big like a fiesta clutch pedal:D
LT 95 bell housing isnt big enough for the big cummins flywheel and clutch and you need that big clutch!!(been there making custom jobs)
Then speak to neil at rakeway who can supply bits to do a divorced lt230.
For a throttle cable buy a 300tdi LHD version(motor and diesel have them in stock) as its longer than normal and will reach the cummins fuel pump which is on the opposite side of a tdi

Leave the starter motor 24v and get a bosch parallel start relay to give 24v starting on 12 v charge.
Get a 12v fuel shut of solenoid and a transit alternator with vacuum pump or if you want to do it proper convert brakes to hydra boost.

The power steering pump on a truck engine will have too much flow and pressure for a lr steering box so get a pressure divert valve to protect the system when you hit full lock

I reckon I was the first to cummins a 110 back in 2000 and I reckon Ive done more than anyone else so what I say isnt hearsay its earnt knowledge;)
 
Now you see thats what i was after pressbrake. Thanks :hug: Great info there well received. Maybe i was taking the tiddle by saying was going to tune it. So, just out of curiosity just what could i get away with using the above setup? Would i be able to tinker at all with it? Ive seen guys on other forums turning the boost up to 45psi etc and everything is aparently staying together.
 
Steggels is aroind 240 HP and thats plenty, been aroumd it in person and offroaded with him in it. Pulls preety hard even with 37's and sounds sweet !! Definately one im doing in the future. He uses the daf 42 box which I think hes crunched 1 already though. L230 is the best transfer box made in my opinion although will struggle above 250 - 300 which is also probably around the limit of a standard LR chassis

He has hd springs on the front standards on the back and hydro assist but thats mainly for the 37's

Do it and dont listen to doc he's mad
 
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