marcinbrighton
New Member
My £20 donation is waiting on Ricks diagnosis and repair!!
I'll match that too
My £20 donation is waiting on Ricks diagnosis and repair!!
Possible, but he is getting voltage to the Coil Packs....they just aren't firing.....
Usually if the diodes have gne in the Alt, he battery would be draining quite a bit!
My thoughts exactly - if you read back, we have been toying with the idea of Crank and coils....Voltage to the coils but no spark, am I being simple or does that not point at failed coil pack?
I don't think it is the coil packs as it is unlightly to get both failing at the same time.
Unless the short at the fuse box damaged them both at the same time?
Coils are supplyed from ECU so it would be fried before the coils.
And how would you suppose testing it??Agreed but nowhere can I see that the ECM has been tested apart from where it was bought ?????
I am think the same as the ignition system is simple enough - if the coils are new/good, the crank sensor is new, the BeCM is pulling in the Ignition relay (he has power to the coils) but the ECU isn't firing them - it can only be the link between the ECU and the BeCM left.....I assume(d) Doug has synced these two together following his visits....hence why the only things left in the system i suggested would be coils and crank....but if the ECU and BeCMstill aren't talking correctly there is little else in the system to cause isses...To me there remains a query over the replacement BECM, I believe the early BECM is different to late, is it compataible with your engine ECU? I have no definate knowledge of this, but so many things change on LR products that have caught me out that I though it worth raising.
And how would you suppose testing it??
Rob hasn't got a scope to measure the pulses on.....
To me there remains a query over the replacement BECM, I believe the early BECM is different to late, is it compataible with your engine ECU? I have no definate knowledge of this, but so many things change on LR products that have caught me out that I though it worth raising.
True - but Rob hasn't got access to a donor P38 - unless anyone else is local with an ECU he could test with??There is only one way,on another car you can't rely on a breakers they will tell you any old poo just to sell the item especially electrics look at the one I posted earlier no returns I wonder why that is if it were me I would have doner car waiting to test in front of where I bought it or I guaranteed return if faulty you can't just keep sticking things on in hope the only good thing so farcwascthe free test fuse box sham it wasnt the ECM as well to be sure, if ECM fried its not going to tell you else is fried is it ...
True - but Rob hasn't got access to a donor P38 - unless anyone else is local with an ECU he could test with??
Autos and manuels are differnt for a start
If you read back D300, Rob seems to think Rick can help....No not fitted the coil packs yet Saint they are a right **** to get at and i treid sensor first...
I thought about alternator too i must admit but not sure how to test it falla....
whats involved in testing it "Is it worth taking the positive lead off the alternator and repeating the voltage tests in case current is slipping the wrong way?"
Rick seems very confident he can help me as well im liking what he says ...
Here are just a few diesels err 7300
6114
4310
7301
Thor I can only find 2 100470/ 100660