I dont mean to be rude but what would cause that? I can only see them being better than they were without all the debris inside.
 
danp3 said:
I dont mean to be rude but what would cause that? I can only see them being better than they were without all the debris inside.
Click to expand...

if they do leak and not seal bearing fully ,in mind its over 4000 psi ,very precision fit the needle
 
The question you have to ask yo self, and I don't think you have answered, is "what is causing all that oil contamination?"

All you seem to have done so far is find huge amounts of oil everywhere and clean it off. I suspect that reassembling it all without finding the cause, will result in a repeat.

Have you tried getting all the pistons at the same height (halfway up the bores) and pouring 50ml or so of oil in each bore, to see how long it takes for the oil to seep past the rings. If one pot goes down quickly, you might have broken or carboned-up rings.
 
That was my next plan although I've heard of doing it with meths. Opinion?
My problem is with the 110 at the lock up I can't get there to do any block investigation until the weekend. Hence working on the head and injectors this week. I'm borrowing a valve spring compressor Thursday so I'll check the head for warping and the valves for tolerances. I'm guessing dodgy valve seals wouldn't help matters either.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
The question you have to ask yo self, and I don't think you have answered, is "what is causing all that oil contamination?"
Click to expand...

Exactly. At this point you seem to be looking at the injectors which would not be the cause of your problem. Injectors would cause rough running, but running is the key word here. Not loss of oil and a step in the bores.

jamesmartin said:
if you can feel a step in the bore it needs reboring or another engine ,
Click to expand...

I agree with Mr. Martin. I know you are trying to salvage your car by salvaging your engine, but it might be a good time to let go and get another engine. You may be able to run it with that step in the bore and it might be reasonably OK, but you will end up with potentially more problems unless you rebore.
 
I think the giveaway on this engine was your earlier post where you said you could turn the engine over by hand and feel resistance. It should be hard work to turn it over by hand. Also, being unable to start is a concern.

Even with the glowplugs removed (so no compression), the fuel injection pump offers a fair bit of resistance.

My old 2.5 NA started right up on three cylinders with no arguments (one cylinder glow plug removed) - no drama. Your compression must be seriously compromised if the engine won't run or there is no fuel getting to the injectors.
 
Thanks for the responses. I'm in the process of speaking to someone I know who apparently has a couple of 200tdi discos on their farm. In the mean time it's not costing me anything to tinker with the current engine and I'm learning tons. Plus there is that added annoyance of not knowing what the specific problem is. So I'm going to keep investigating. If I can get it running with no huge expense there is the bonus of it will save me getting lifts to work whilst i track down a replacement.
 
Indeed. Tinker away. Learn from what your engine can show you. You are in a good position to open up an engine and look at all the component parts and see how they work and wear out.

And most of all, enjoy it!
 
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