danp3

danp3

New Member
Hi
So I snapped a timing belt over the weekend and have been doing my best to rectify it myself. I don't know what took longer, searching the net for how tos or getting all the snapped front cover bolts out. It is now all stripped back having removed the bent push rods and I'm awaiting the delivery of parts.

So with noting else to do (not words I use often when talking about the 110) I thought I'd try to find the plug you unscrew to lock the flywheel. :eek: Its not there! at least its not where I expected it to be from the videos I've seen. see the photo below. Anyone any ideas? Does this mean my 200tdi isn't a 200tdi?

Thanks in advance

 
The crank pulley on the front has a TDC marker which will line up with a point on the timing chest. I am at work so I can't take a picture and it will be dark when I get back, but it is there.

I have seen a flywheel housing without a hole but that is on an older vehicle with a NA engine.

Was yours a conversion or is it a factory fit 200Tdi?
 
This is the thing. It's 1990 which from what I've read could be a 19J or 200tdi. Image searching on Google said 200tdi but that doesn't keen it hasn't been converted.
Any suggestions for what to do if there isn't a hole?
 
Yeah, line up the pulley with the TDC mark, that is your only choice really. Unless you time it all up with the timing case off.
 
I presume 'timming case off' means taking all three drivewheels/srockets off and more possibly seased bolts.

I assumed alligning the marks would work alone and the locking pin just makes the process easier. But then there is a lot of threads on here urging noobs like me to do it properly with the proper tools. Could I put the bolt back in the crank shaft and use a socket to hold it in place?
 
danp3 said:
I presume 'timming case off' means taking all three drivewheels/srockets off and more possibly seased bolts.

I assumed alligning the marks would work alone and the locking pin just makes the process easier. But then there is a lot of threads on here urging noobs like me to do it properly with the proper tools. Could I put the bolt back in the crank shaft and use a socket to hold it in place?
Click to expand...

just front cover
 
Yes I've got a centre punch on the cam sprocket lines up with the cast web bit, the keyway on the crank lines up with the cast arrow above and the injector sprocket is locked with the 9.5 peg. However, is this enough to fit a new belt despite the old one breaking off so the possibility of the shafts being spun independently since being high and not being able to lock the flywheel?

Sorry long sentence, this Sh*ts complicated.:confused:
 
Thanks very much. I really appreciate your time. I've been trying to work this out all afternoon from videos and the forum. Sounds like it's pretty rare to not have a hole in the underside.
 
That is a Discovery 200Tdi so it must have been a different engine out of the factory. I suspect that they changed the flywheel housing and this is why you don't have that hole.

Anyway, not the end of the world..
 
It depends on what parts you bought. The timing chest on a Discovery 200Tdi is a different shape to the Defender one and I believe that the belt might be a different length (could be wrong), although if you have already fitted one then that must be OK. But the timing chest cover gasket (if you used one) is different too because of the different shape. However, a lot of these gaskets that you buy nowadays are universal and you remove the bits that don't fit your engine.

There are a few other differences between the blocks, namely the position of the turbo. On a Discovery it is below the inlet manifold but on the Defender it is above it and the intercooler is plumbed in the opposite way round.

What bits are you on about?
 
The push rods will be the same as the block and head are the same.

Have you actually fitted the belt kit? If so then I wouldn't worry as you must have the right one. The timing kits must be different between the Defender and Discovery as the Discovery kit has an additional idler so the belt must be longer. If you have the wrong one you may have to return it if and get the right one, but if you quote the engine number when ordering it you should get the right one. Gaskets will be different as the timing chest is a different shape, and the water pump is different too (I think).

As for the bolts, I presume they will be the same. But which bolts are you talking about?
 
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