You poor sod!
Have to say there is a lot on it that DIDN'T get burnt that you might have expected to. such as tyres and even the snorkel.
Is it an electronic one?
cos if not, just take it out and fiddle with it until it shows what you want!
I think the electric ones store it in the ECU in which case, if that got burnt you may well just have to try and get the enw one rejigged.
Zed.
Well-Known Member
^^This...
although this was the staple of unscrpulous car sales a while ago
Rich.
As MOTs are now computerised, it is a lot less of a popular thing to do, and setting it back to what it was before the fire cannot be seen as misrepresentation.^^This...
although this was the staple of unscrpulous car sales a while ago
Rich.
dag019
Well-Known Member
All of the snorkel is metal though, i got all that galvanised a few years ago. in fairness the the fire brigade (and the neighbor who reported it to them) everything was very quick so it probably had less than 5min burn time. another 5 and there would not have been a lot left at all.
On first glance, "all" it needs is:
wings, bonnet bulkhead for bodywork
engine and ancillaries,
all wiring looms
and all of the dash fixtures
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dag019
Well-Known Member
I don't do electric, it is an old tdi so everything is mechanicalIs it an electronic one?
cos if not, just take it out and fiddle with it until it shows what you want!
I think the electric ones store it in the ECU in which case, if that got burnt you may well just have to try and get the enw one rejigged.
^^This...
although this was the staple of unscrpulous car sales a while ago
I am trying to do the opposite of all of the unscrupulous second hand car dealers, I want as high a mileage as possible. All the speedos I can see for sale clearly belongs to people who looked at rather than drove their land rover. Bit if there is no quick way to do it a mains powered drill with a cable tie on the trigger should work, but even set at 120mph (don't want to go over the speedo speed limit as don't want to damage the internals) will take a month to get 100k additional miles. and most of the ones I can see for sale are in the 150k region.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Remove glass & use a needle for the speedo
"engine" are you sure? They take a lot of heat in normal running. It might be fine once cleaned up and sorted out.
But yes the pipework and wires etc going to it will be well fecked!
Just take it apart and put it together again where you want it to be. It is just a question of turning the dials.
I only did it once, and am a tiny bit ashamed of it, but it is easy to do.
dag019
Well-Known Member
It started on the injector pump side, so I am expecting that the injector pump will be toasted. I am planning on dropping another engine into it for speed of rebuild, and will then have a look at rebuilding this one in slow time so it is not dependent on getting that .
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
Sorry to see the damage. Personally I wouldn’t have involved the insurance company, by the time they write it off, pay you out and you buy it back (assuming you can) and then taking into account increased premiums and the reduced value of the vehicle, I reckon you’ll have been better off just not claiming and footing the repair costs yourself.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I did consider that, but it depends on what they charge to buy it back. Last time I had this (a jag that was rear ended) they sold it back to me at scrap value, although I am not expecting that here. The reduction in cost does nto bother me. I have no intention of selling it (had it since I was 18, first car i ever bought, etc) so that doesn't bother me. The increased insurance premiums will be annoying though.
Ian M in France
Well-Known Member
Not too sure but think if it is written off it will have to be inspected before going back on the road to check it is not a ringer, do they check engine numbers, if so be very sure of the engine you install is straight and number matches car it comes from, could be a big pain if not but I would change the engine as a complete engine,by the time you have bought all the bits it will be less than repairing yours and you have done a lot of miles on that engine good luck
dag019
Well-Known Member
It started under the drivers wing, so think it is an electrical short.
I think it depends on the category the jag just needed a new mot. I am hoping the galv chassis does not cause problems with that as obviously does not have a chassis number stamped on it but I do have the invoice for it somehwer ein my files of land rover receipts. I am just hoping the original vin plate is still legible on the brake pedal and has not melted!
Scrap value is normal, so I would expect that is what they will want you to pay. If not I'd sure as heck want to know why!
Rougharse Racing
Well-Known Member
I think that the concentration of damage around the driver's side wing will be down to the brake fluid reservoir. Brake fluid is mega-inflammable.
I would try and start the engine before you start pulling it out, you may be pleasantly surprised.
I would try and start the engine before you start pulling it out, you may be pleasantly surprised.
dag019
Well-Known Member
I will have a look at the engine before pulling it out, the fan belt is still intact so I am happy the cambelt is likely to be ok short term to test is starting. I will pull the rocker cover and remover the melted remains of the oil cap, but a quick look at the injector pump I am not sure if that will have survived, I don't know what rubber seals etc are inside of the injector pump but I can certainly see some melt residue around the throttle spindle.
